Hi Guys,
I need to replace my clutch, but everywhere I go to check for cost and availability wants to know if I have a 10" or an 11" clutch, and I don't have a clue. I can't find any info anywhere telling me which models the 11" came with, and I need to be able to buy the parts before I take mine apart. Anybody been through this, and have any insight for me?

Take care,
~Chris

 

I am guessing a 10", knowing Ford and their tendency to "under clutch" their trucks. Since you have the 4.9 (and Im guessing the M5OD?) I doubt they gave you the HD option of an 11". I installed an 11" when I swapped to a 351 and I cant begin to tell you how much difference it made. The clutch is "more exact". It just catches more evenly and smother and is awsome for pulling a load. There is a ton more surface area on the 11" and it just plain makes the whole clutch work better. Its just undescribable. My suggestion is bite the bullet and convert to an 11" (if you dont already have one). A lot of flywheels come drilled for both 10's and 11's. I bought a new flywheel for my 351 for $69.99 at Parts America and an 11" clutch for $102.99 and no core. I couldn't believe how cheap it was.

 

Ran into the same problem a while back Chris.....mine ended up being the 10inch.

Lemme know how easy it is/was to change it...I'm going to attempt it next time.

 

the ram clutches website says your truck's OEM clutch is 10"

 

Sprocket,
It shouldn't be any harder than putting in the 10" clutch really. The 11" pattern uses larger bolts (3/8" fine thread I believe, but dont remember for sure) so plan on a hardware store run. Sounded like PKRWUD wanted to have it all there and ready to go and just bolt it up, but if you do have to make a parts store run for something small it will be worth it. The biggest kicker you would run into is if your flywheel wasn't drilled for an 11". Mine from my 4.9L was, and you might be able to tell from the access hole in the bellhousing.

 

Have you decided on a clutch type yet? I went with a Centerforce II and i love it. Pedal feel is the same but it holds on tight, especially at high rpms. The Centerforce duel friction is twice as expensive but i here that it's worth it.

-Jon

 

I just got done with installing a new clutch about a month ago. Turned out my clutch was only a few thousand miles old anyway and in new condition and my problem was both rear blocks were cracked severely. I know, sounds wierd. Anyway, I decided I was going to put on an 11" no matter what so that is what I bought. I would suggest going with LUK or RAM. Both make excellent clutches. I personally went with a LUK. It was the performance series or something like that. Good for 400HP supposely and a lifetime warrany. Wow, talk about holding power.

Anyway, chances are you have a 10" on there. When I took mine out I was pleasantly surprised to find an 11" allready installed. Your flywheel should have both the 10 and 11" bolt patterns. Im not sure if you can tell, but take off that rubber boot on the side of your bellhousing and shine a flashlight in there to see if you can tell what you have. I don't know if its possible to tell from there or not. Also, if you indeed do have a 10" you will need new pressure plate bolts. I think the 10" used 3/8 and the 11" uses 7/16 or something. Im not exactly sure on the size difference but I do know the 11" is BIGGER. Have fun, I think I spent about half the time trying to get that old transmittion mated back up. WHAT a PITA.

 

I would be interested in how to measure clutch wear. My new truck (New to me) is a 5 speed, and I want to know how I can tell if I need to replace the clutch. What do I look for in the sight window?

Thanks,

Good Luck Chris.... take plenty of pics for us that will follow... You know we'll be asking plenty of questions soon enough.

 

There's nothing to see. The clutch disk is behind the pressure plate, and the hydraulic system works so well, you're great one day, and screwed the next.

Okay, slight exageration, but it's nothing like it was with a clutch cable.

I can feel it when I'm coasting to a stop, in gear. It very lightly "chugs". There are other times when I feel this same thing, and they are all symptomatic of a failing disk. ********. I can't afford this right now. I was just about to buy new shocks.

Whine, cry, bitch, complain.

Damn, still needs to be replaced.

PROOF! Bitching doesn't help get it done any quicker (but I do feel a little better). I hate wrenching that deep on my own vehicles.



Here's a cool pic of the Sprint car I crew for. Notice how it looks like he just drove straight into the picture? Notice how there are no tire tracks that would make that possible? He is sliding sideways, coming out of turn 4, but the angle of the car and the front tires is so perfect, it's deceptive. Really cool pic, IMO.

Take care,
~Chris

 

Have you guys found a big improvement on those high dollar clutches over a closer to OEM replacement? The 11" I bought was made by Zoom, which I was told makes decent clutches, but I know nothing about them to really say myself and it is likely close to a stock replacement. I could say similar as things as you guys about my 11" as compared to a 10", and a new clutch compared to a worn out tired one. When I put in my 11", my 10" was only a year old and the second one I had installed, so the difference in the two sizes was well founded. My point is, are your impressions on the high dollar clutches based on replacing a tired one or upping from a 10 to an 11? Can you say that the brand and cost of a premium clutch makes significant difference on our >300hp engines not running at the strip? I am skeptical the brand could make as much as an improvement as a 10-11 swap, but is is still worth it?

 

I've got a 10in LUK in mine and didn't feel any difference. Everything works fine and shifts fine 20k later.

LUK isn't realy high dollar..it's one of the cheapest, it's the only brand pepboys would install in my truck.(BTW never go to pepboys!)

 

There has got to be an easy way to tell if your clutch is going south. I have 162,000 miles on my truck and how do I know if it (Clutch) has been replaced? Don't want to pull the transmission and transfer case if I don't have to.

The pedal had a small window of engagement for first gear, I barley have to touch it (pedal) and it engages.

Justin

 

Usually if the disc is going bad, it will slip in the higher gears like 4th or 5th on the highway. Doesn't make sense at first, but the driveline is harder to turn and makes more resistance for the engine. The driveline is actually easier to turn in first gear off the line.

If your clutch is not engaging/disengaging at the proper position, it could be a hydrolic problem. I am trusting that the '93's have hydrolic clutches, which are self adjusting if there is no air in the lines. I don't know if the disc or pressure plate could be worn out to the point of causing improper clutch pedal.

 

It is a hydraulic clutch. I don't know if it is just adjusted (pedal) this way or not, but to take off, you have to lift the pedal about 90% out before the clutch will engage. To shift into second, you have only to press it about 10% and it will shift. It may be normal.... As for slipping, mine has yet to slip, I can chug along in 5th at 30 MPH and press the gas and it will gain speed without slipping, also, cruising at 65, I can stomp on the gas and it will take off and the rpms move in unison. No slipping noticed...

I'll keep any eye on it, I was just curious, been a long time since I owned a manual transmission.

Justin

 

On my '89 there is no pedal adjustment. I know some hydrolic systems have a pedal adjustment. My sisters Toyota does, and when it needs adjusted, the pedal actually gets loose. You might make some simple hydrolic checks before you drop your tranny.

I had problems with my 18 month old clutch slipping. I asked the place that installed it (it had a 12mo warrenty) if there where any other problems specifically like hydrolic that would cause the clutch to slip prematurely, not because I wanted them to fix it, just to know what to look for. They said "nope, its misuse and the disk is worn." BS, I know how the clutch was used. I asked the parts stores and some other people, and they said the slipping disk was due to a worn clutch as well. Taking their advice, I dropped the tranny, the disk was glazed but not worn down. I replaced the disk, pressure plate, and slave cylinder. When I was bleeding the line, I couldnt get it to bleed properly. After some investigation, I found the push rod on the master cylinder to be bent. It was due to a broken bracket under the dash that I had fixed long before, but it bent the rod. The whole problem was the master cylinder allowing excess fluid in the lines because the piston was running too far back. The hydrolics would then not allow the pressure plate to apply full pressure, causing the slipping.

You might do some checking in your hydrolics before you do anything too drastic. I know the symptoms are not the same as yours, but dropping the tranny is a chore. You can check the master cylinder, but I have always had to remove mine to get the line off. Bench tests are better anyways. You have to press out a small pin that holds the line in, and then you can see if your MS is pumping fluid correctly. I am not sure if a worn disk or pressure plate causes the pedal to release differently since the master cylinder (at least in mine) is designed to allow additional fluid to enter the line as the clutch wears, and eliminates the pedal adjustment. I think as clutches wear, they tend to release near the bottom of the travel when unadjusted???

I might be partial to hydrolic problems now, so maybe somebody else has some suggestions as well?