I cant decide if i want to buy a gen 2 L or make my 1995 302 2wd ext cab. i have now faster, i would definally put a supercharger on it what else would i have to do? Would alot of internal things need to be done? i could proboly put about $10,000 into it, I would like to make low 13's/12' in the 1/4, i would like to make my truck faster rather than have a payment for a truck each month, i would lower it also. i know the New Harly Davidson supercrews can do high 13's/14s with a 360 hp motor. any input would be help full. thanks

 

First, you have to really beef up the entire brake system.

Second, find a spot that has a telephone pole on each side of the road.

Third, go and find the most biggest rubberband in the World...

 

well, take that 302 and stroke it to a 347 with full forged internals, then run a nice shot of nitrous (or a blower if funds allow) . youre gonna want some slicks and a good suspension that can hold the power. also some weight reduction couldnt hurt. what treanny do you have? you'll probably need somehting like a C6 to be able to hold the power it takes to take your truck to the 13's or 12's. i think PKRWUD would be qualified best to help you there, since he's a mechanic and is involved with racing and all. im just throwing out some ideas, good luck!

 

I recommend a blown 509 CI big block.

-Jon

 

The first thing I would do is your basic bolt ons. Then ditch the factory heads for some good aftermarket ones. But if you really want into the 13's then a supercharger is almost a necessity. Once you have the power-traction will be your next big obstacle

I dont blame you for wanting to put money into your current truck rather than buying a new one. $5000 is not even a years payments on a new one.

 

Stage One:

Convert to Mass Air
Pro-M Bullet 75mm Mass Air Sensor & FMS 24# Injectors
FMS 65mm Throttle Body/EGR combo
FMS 1.6 Roller Rockers
GT-40 Cast Iron Heads
Edelbrock RPM EFI Intake
FMS Phenolic Spacer (1/2" w/o EGR)
FMS E303 Camshaft
Kirban Adjustable FPR
MSD 6AL w/ Blaster 2 Coil
Custom EEC IV Chip
March Underdrive Pulleys
BBS 155 lph Fuel Pump
Richmond 4.10:1 Gears
FMS Adjustable Timing Chain Set (retarded 4 degrees)
Black Magic 5.0 Electric Fan
MAC Cold Air Induction System

That should get you into the mid to low 13's.

Next, you'll need a strong tranny. Rather than a C6, I'd look into a Lentech Strip Terminator Lock-up AOD.

If you want a blower, contact the manufacturer and ask them for the parts they recommend.

Take care,
-Chris

 

there ya go! pkrwud is the man . hey pkrwud, i was under the impression that the E303 cam was a roller cam to be used with roller valvetrains, you mean it will work with solit flat-tappet lifters?

 

The '95 302 is a roller.

Take care,
-Chris

 

arent the 24lb injectors and the 155 fuel pump overkill for a naturally aspirated engine with only a e303 cam?

 

Perhaps by themselves, but not in combination with the rest of the list, IMO.

Take care,
-Chris

 

Chris,

See you're a fan of the iron GT-40s. Will that debate ever end? LOL!

I've considered swapping to the P heads myself. Easy to get your hands on and cheap. I just hate swapping iron heads with other iron heads that have been worked. Might be ahead and do it anyway, along with a cam.

Bet you saw enough head debates at the 'Stang site!

 

Actually, I haven't done anything first hand with the P heads yet, but I have heard really good things about them.

Take care,
-Chris

 

Chris,

Same here as well. I've seen dyno runs on a V8 Explorer and it had a very strong low end. The 'Stang guys seem to like them as well and get good numbers at higher revs. Seems to me a strong indication that they flow well regardless of what cam in the engine.

Even new the cost isn't bad, but I'm sure by now the junkyards have plenty of them as well. I've also looked at a friends Mountaineer and it appears that the stock headers would clear everything on my truck. Not sure about the Explorer, but the Mountaineers have a tubular header that looks well designed for a stock unit on a truck.



Maybe we should use my truck as the test mule.... OK everyone send me some cash! I promise anything beyond my cost for install will go into dyno runs, and I'll even post the charts!

C'mon now... who else is gonna do this just to help out fellow site members? BTW, the line forms behind me.... hehe

 

Yeah, but is your daughter up for the work?

Take care,
-Chris

 

I would not want to have a truck that made it into the 13's N/A. That means your revving it to the moon or you have massive cubic inches under the hood. Gas mileage then for one is in the absolute crapper. And, for me, a truck that does not LOOK like an L should not be revving to 6000+ rpm.. it seems a little silly TO ME! Maybe with a quiet exhaust its not so bad.. dunno.

Chris's formula may work but its also dependent on a good hard launch which again *I* would not want to convert my truck to do..

So lots of blown power is how you get there. Edelbrock intake, Mass air conversion, TFS/Ebock/AFR165 heads, Anderson Ford Motorsport or Buddy Rawls (call them for a custom cam that keeps it shifting below 5500rpm).. 1 5/8" LT headers, true dual exhaust.. those are the major components you'll need. You could do this for <$10K. I would definetly take it to a dyno after everything was installed and get a custom chip. I don't know how they shift but the ZF 5spd from the 250 series truck should handle the power. You'd need the crossmember and driveshaft from the 250 and you may need a custom yoke and flange at the axle.

Has anyone ever learned how to feed a blown engine w/ enough fuel from our twin fuel tanks/pumps? I think you need to go to 255lph pumps in the tank, 30+/lb injectors and no FMU. I think the FMU which causes the fuel pressure to spike causes problems with the return line and fuel from one tank returning to the other. If that other tank is full, it can overflow.

Oh and BRAKES! NEED A MASSIVE BRAKE UPGRADE.