hello again, Ray. I looked at your pictures of your air box and ram air mods, and I am interested. I have a question or two, though. Did you cut the entire bottom off the box? Is the snorkel directly attached to the box or is it just directing the air toward the box underneath? What is meant by your ram air modification.

Thanks, Tim

 

i did this mod on my truck. i cut teh entire bottom out of the air box. still havent played with the ram air setup.

 

yes i removed the entire bottom of the air box . the ram air mod is just pointed at the air box/filter.. but it brings in 5 times the air it did as a stock snorkle .

 

Thanks fellows, for the reply. I will modify mine when I get the chance. Ray, where can I purchase an apc intimidator filter and, just how important is it to have this filter connected to the existing elbow.


Also, I pulled my codes out. KOEO codes= 11
continuous memory codes=32
KOER codes=44

I don't know where to start on this thermactor air control system. Anyone know?

 

the filter i got at advanced auto , it is very important to have a crankcase filter/breather.
the KAM codes suggest an egr problem. code 32 . i just got rid of this one myself after a second new egr.
code 44 , chris will have to help on that one . lol

 

Hi Chris, I pulled some codes out of my computer. Code 32 and code 44. I got some help from my Haynes manual. It said the secondary air was inoperative. It suggests performing pump, valve, valve vacuum, and solenoid checks. Do you have any suggestions in this area?


Hi Ray, Did you say you had to replace your EGR valve twice before this problem went away? I replaced my EGR valve 6 or 7 months ago. It didn't solve any peformance problems I have. I got mine at Autozone.


Is there a way I can test my catalytic converter for blockage? My valves ping. Thanks fellas!

 

As for code 44 check that your air pump is working and not seized up (or making noises). I got code 44 too and will tackle it this weekend. I got a new airpump off Ebay for 40 or 50 bucks, so I'll put it right in, because my old pump makes funny noises. I think you can test if your pump works by disconecting one of the hoses to check if its pumping air. While I'm at it I'm also getting some small parts (solenoids?) from Autozone to get the system running again. I'll also make sure all vacuum hoses are connected and tight. I don't think it should be a big deal to fix that.

 

Hello Chris, I did some checks on my thermactor system. First, I removed the hose from the outlet port on my air pump, started the engine and there is good air flow there. I reconnected the hose and removed the hose from the outlet on the bypass valve. With the vacuum hose removed, I did not feel any air coming out. When I reconnected the vacuum line(engine warm) I got good air flow. The vacuum, although, was a bit weak, Is this normal to have low vacuum at this vacuum connection? When I referred to my Haynes manaul on these checks, I got alittle confused. This valve is normally cosed. The manaul reads as follows "Step 15 Start the engine and check for airflow at bypass valve dump outlet while in default state. If no flow is indicated, replace the valve." My question is, With the valve in the default state, isn't it closed and by being closed, there should be no airflow, right? This looks like a misprint, or is the valve open with or without vacuum? I don't know. It goes on to read, "Apply vacuum to the valve and check the bypass valve at the outlet for airflow. If no flow is indicated, replace the valve." This part makes sense to me. The first part does not. This is as far as I got on my checks of the thermactor system. I would welcome any input. Tim

 

Tim-
I'm sorry, I just haven't been reading this thread. I will help you out, and give you some suggestions, but I don't have the time right now. I will try to get back online this afternoon, or this evening at the latest.

Take care,
-Chris

 

Damnit. Now this is bugging me, and i had to check something. Bad news. A code 44 can only be diagnosed with a professional scan tool that has provisions for entering the Output State Check, and by then performing various tests to determine the effect that hitting the throttle has at different points in the wiring harness. What I can tell you is that it's not a check valve problem or a diverter valve problem. The ECM is saying that the system just isn't working (for the right bank). When you performed the KOER test, did you put the throttle to WOT when you were prompted to? Failing to do this could trigger a code 44. Also, inspect your vacuum lines for cracks or blockages.

let me know, but don't expect me back until this afternoon or this evening. Now I'm really late!

Take care,
-Chris

 

Sorry
i just returned from San Anotonio today . been gone since thursday morning .

 

Chris, Yes I did perform WOT when prompted. As a matter of fact I run the KOER test about three times, and got the same 44 code each time. My "check engine" light is coming on as I accelerate. It flickers on at higher rpm's, just before it changes gears. Is my bypass valve working properly? No air output with vacuum line off. There is air output when I reconnect the vacuum line. Is the vacuum at the bypass valve normally low volume or should it be a strong vacuum? Mine is low (after engine warms up). I will check for vacuum leak or blockage. Do you think I should not even bother to check the diverter valve and check valves?

 

yes i bought the egr at autozone also . it was bad . i returned it and got another one . it works .lol just because it is new doesn't mean it works .

 

I checked my thermactor air system out this weekend. It is rather tricky. Since mine was making noises, I replaced the pump. The check valve is behind the upper intake manifold and I would bet you have to take that off to replace the valve. I also have two diverter valves that are vacuum operated. It is said that a defective check valve can cause exhaust to enter the pump and wreck it. I just hope that's not what's happened to me. I didn't have time to check the codes again, but I'll let you know if changing just the pump cleared the codes.

 

I'm sorry, I've been working 12-14 hour days, between work and working on the race car. Now that racing season is here, my time is much more limited. Anyway, you are in a difficult situation, as far as testing for the problem is concerned. A code 44 is usually accompanied with either a code 45 or 46, but since yours wasn't, the only way I know to test it is with a scan tool that allows you to enter the Output State Check. I feel confident that your AM1 and AM2 solenoids are okay, as well as your divertor valve and your bypass valve. Your vacuum measurements sound passable, too, but it isn't that simple. The best advice is to check all vacuum hoses for blockage or cracks, and to verify they are routed correctly. I'm sorry this isn't more helpful, but you picked a tough one.

Take care,
-Chris