Pre-1997 Models

Rear Air bag sensor

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Old 02-15-2021, 06:25 PM
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Rear Air bag sensor

Hello all. My ‘94 F150 has a Air Bag code 22 implying a high voltage at the rear safing sensor. I have removed the sensor from the bottom of the passenger side b pillar. It looks pristine, no corrosion or physical damage. A very dry California car. No obvious wire damage from the ADM monitor. Any suggestions on how to test the sensor while I have it out and on my bench? Looks like 5 pins that I could use to check for faults. I found a new sensor, but want to test existing to find fault. Thanks for any suggestions!
 
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Old 08-10-2021, 01:20 PM
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Problem possibly fixed

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Originally Posted by Bschell
Hello all. My ‘94 F150 has a Air Bag code 22 implying a high voltage at the rear safing sensor. I have removed the sensor from the bottom of the passenger side b pillar. It looks pristine, no corrosion or physical damage. A very dry California car. No obvious wire damage from the ADM monitor. Any suggestions on how to test the sensor while I have it out and on my bench? Looks like 5 pins that I could use to check for faults. I found a new sensor, but want to test existing to find fault. Thanks for any suggestions!
Well I got no responses so forged ahead. I verified continuity in wiring from ADM to saving sensor. OK. I purchased new sensor for 22$. Same bad code 22. Opened up ADM and replaced thermal fuse as per instructions in other threads. Problem resolved. No codes after 2 months.
 
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Old 08-10-2021, 06:00 PM
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I chased my tail for a couple of months with a problem with my ADM, thinking it might be th obvious thermal fuse. I see where you reviewed my post about that. I did such a deep dive chasing wispy threads, but finally emerged victorious, as did you. I only saw this post a few minutes ago, or would have tried to confuse much earlier :=)
 
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Old 08-10-2021, 07:38 PM
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Thanks for the empathy. I was going to quit and just disconnect the air bag system but opened up the blue ADM and the problem was obvious. Learned how to “desolder” the thermal fuse and so far so good. Thanks for your online comments and suggestions, we can all help keeping these beasts running. Mine has 288k miles. All original engine and trans. Just installed an Eaton Tru Trac in differential. No tire spin, amazing device for about $600 installed by me. Regards. Bill
 
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Old 08-10-2021, 09:40 PM
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my 4.9 96 is all original 4.9 , M50OD XL basic model nice bumpers nice original paint and 198k on it now. I am pretty much **** retentive, and I have never let a problem beat me yet. It does have a minor leak from the differential cover gasket, but absolutely dry every where else.. I have changed the head after thermostat stuck out on the interstate. I have changed the oil pan gasket and the side push rod cover gasket. In the process of changing out the mid ship gas tank and fuel pump assy. I have had the bed off once and jacked up enough to change the front fuel pump twice. Thats why I'm doing the front tank and pump assy so that maybe I wont have to change them again. I have installed a wet fuel pressure gauge so that can monitor the health of the fuel pumps and the fuel pressure regulator
 
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Old 08-19-2021, 01:34 PM
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Hey Bob. Took off awhile and read your post. Fuel pumps? My forward pump check valve died about a year ago leading to overfilling of the forward tank. I removed the bed. Easy 6 bolts and rear electrical tail light connector. Wife and I slid the bed off. Replaced both pumps with NAPA replacements. They are different part numbers. You need to disconnect fuel filling hose connections. These hoses have inner and outer hoses. The inner hose of both were very brittle and failed during the reinstall. Ebay had replacements, nice and pliable, different part numbers. Needed neighbors to help put bed on due to bolt alignment. Great access by removing the bed!

Interior of fuel tanks looked pristine. My brother previously owned vehicle and would occasionally add fuel conditioners. Maybe that helped reduce moisture.


My fuel injectors are original. 288k miles. Slight rough idle. Pondering replacement. Any experience with those?
I tightened up side push rod cover bolts to factory torque specs and oil leaks are almost gone. Any hints on easy gasket replacement?
stay safe and enjoy the ride! Bill
 
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Old 08-19-2021, 04:12 PM
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Fuel pumps on the dual tank are like a thorn in a lions paw. I had the rear to front xfer problems when I bought mine. I changed the front pump cartridge by removing the front and center bed bolts, and loosening the rear as far as possible. disconnecting the filler hoses by removing the three self tapping screws by each of the fuel filler caps thereby releasing the upper part of the filler from the bed. Jacking up the front like a dump truck and blocking it there. The second time I changed both by removing bed.
And now i will be jacking the front again, but I will change the pump assy and the tank. I believe the front tank gunk might be the cause of the high failure rate of the front pump. About 6 months ago I plumbed in a 1/8th inch copper wet line from the fuel rail test point to a gauge on the dash so i can monitor the fuel pressure at all times. I love it, it can diagnose low pressure or failure of the fuel pressure regulator. I noticed a couple of weeks ago the front pressure was down a little and with throttle application, drop a little more instead of increasing pressure from the regulator. within a few days the pump quit completely. 0 pressure. Later I cycled the key on/off several times with the residual pressure getting higher up to near normal. With this change I am also gonna install later model bed bolts that tighten/loosen with from the top side using hex key with capture nuts at the bottom.

When I changed the side cover gasket, just had to remove coil, and bend the arm in 3 places to get the bolts out. after cleaning the cover and gasket mating surfaces. I used permatex and stuck the gasket to the cover making sure it was positioned properly placed it on a flat surface and weighted it down overnight to dry. I then coated the gasket with permatex and reinstalled and torqued it down. after a year still no seeps.
 
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Old 08-19-2021, 04:20 PM
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If you ever have to change oil pan gasket, be prepared to remove the EGR valve, the motor support bolts (Probably gonna find motor supports need changing too) remove the knock sensor located by the motor support/coil area or you will bust it. By jacking up motor as far as possible the pan can be worked out. The crankshaft might need to be positioned so that #1, 2 rod journals are not in the down position so there will be clearance to work the pan back and out
 
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Old 08-19-2021, 04:45 PM
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Good gasket info. Thanks. Rainy day project.
 
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Old 08-19-2021, 07:17 PM
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Me -n- technology are like oil and water. It belongs to the one below -Related Thread- if you know how to move it, please do.
 
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Old 08-19-2021, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by somemorebob
Me -n- technology are like oil and water. It belongs to the one below -Related Thread- if you know how to move it, please do.
Bob can you give me a link to the thread you were trying to post in? I can get it moved for you. Currently have no idea what thread you were trying to reply to.....
 
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Old 08-19-2021, 08:37 PM
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thread was by Bschell 2-15-21
 
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Old 08-21-2021, 01:50 AM
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posts moved per request
 
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Old 08-21-2021, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Patman
posts moved per request
Many thanks Amigo.
 



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