When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am trying to read the codes on my 1986 F150 302 EFI and thought I was all set when I found a description of the various OBD connectors at Rennacs.com. Thought I had what Rennacs denotes as a "Diagnostic Link Connector No. 6" (6 port with 2 ports on top and 4 ports on bottom), but what I find are two connectors as shown in the attached photo. The main green connector is a five port connector with the characters "6A03" imprinted on the side of the connector cover. The connector has five ports, two narrow and one wide, all oriented horizontally. The connector has two ports of equal height on the bottom, both oriented vertically. Separate and apart, I do find the blue connector shown in the photo. It has two ports (no cover), and it looks similar to the standalone port that you jumper to a port on the "main" connector to put the computer in code output mode. But I can't tell which port on the female portion of the "6A03" to use for connecting the jumper. Any guidance would be much appreciated.
For the 86 OBD connector, the location in the one I had with a 5.0 was on the drivers side just under the hood spring near the firewall. The connector for any OBD1 looks like this:
I will look again but unless the connector has slipped down out of view, I am unsure how to proceed. Obviously the part I mentioned above is not the OBD1 connector so I will try again. Thank you.
Found the OBD connectors on the other side of the engine bay - feel dumb for missing them the first time. So, now I place the jumper wire I made from a paper clip between Self Test Input STI and Signal Return... Ground to put the computer into code output mode and then I can read the codes by the flashing check engine light?
Assuming there are no wiring errors, a quick shortcut is to simply connect the single terminal of the STI input to ground. A jumper with a clip on one end works fine.
Gents - thank you for the clarification. I placed the paper clip between Self Test Input STI and Signal Return... Ground, turned on the key but got no flashing light on the dash. Checking the owner's manual, it seems I have an "Emissions" light rather than a check engine light and I noted the emissions light does not come on when the key is first turned on so I am guessing either the emissions light bulb is burned out or that possibly the emissions light bulb has been removed (seems unlikely). Since I did not wish to remove the dash and replace the emissions bulb right now, I tried the alternative of connecting a test light to battery positive and to Self Test Output but the test light did not flash after turning the key on. Waited several seconds after the fuel pump quit running to give the test time to initialize but nothing happened. Maybe my connection between Self Test Input STI and Signal Return... Ground is bad and I should make a jumper from a short piece of wire and two spade connectors rather than using a paper clip. Any suggestions? Thank you.
It appears that my error on the previous attempt was that I used a non-steel paper clip to make the jump wire. I went back and made a better jump wire with spade connectors on each end, plugged it into Self Test Input STI and Signal Return... Ground, plugged a bare spade connector into Self Test Output, clipped the wire from the test light to the bare spade connector, touched the test light probe to battery positive, then turned the ignition key to the full on position. After the fuel pump stopped running, the test initiated and I got a code 11 (reading the flashes on the test light), followed by a pause, then the code 11 repeated. There were no other codes. The documentation I have shows code 11 as "system pass" so it seems things are in order. Thank you for your helpful comments.
07-23-2017, 06:51 AM
