Hey, I am new to the form. I am thinking about purchasing a 1988 Ford F-150 XLT long bed w/101k miles. Its a 2 owner vehicle and in immaculate condition. Car fax is perfect no accidents and mileage is right on. It has a 351 5.8l engine.

I have a few questions. The owner is asking $4,500 for the truck is that a fair price? It has new tires for what ever that is worth. I dont know much about these trucks and was wondering if they are good and reliable or if I should look else where. If 4500 is not fair what is a good deal for this truck.

I was also wondering what to look for on the truck. I know the basics but is there anything special i need to consider when looking this truck over?

Depending on what is said here if I get it i will surely post pics for yall.

Thanks,

M

 

Also, I am not a mechanic but he stated that he put a vacuum modulator on it for the tranny so it wouldn't shift hard.... good or bad?

 

I paid $1,000 for a 1996 F150 XL with a 4.9L inline 6 cylinder automatic RWD with 140k miles on it.

$4,500 for a truck as immaculate as you make is sound is a steal. Sounds almost too good to be true. I'd be a little weary.

 

look on ebay at sold listings.

 

I don't care how nice it is - that's too much money for a 25 year old vehicle.

 

If you are really still looking at that truck, check it over for rust spots. These trucks this old have it. If he will let your take off the door jam and lift up the carpet.

My truck ('90 F150) has a nice big ol 1 inch rust hole where one of the self tapping screws is supposed to attach to the body.

There is no way to know if that's 101, 201 or a million and 1 miles, the odometer only goes to 99999.9

Check to make sure the windows go up and down, and especially that the passenger side door lock works. 95% of the time that door is locked, you unlock the drivers side and then just press the lock again... The actuator could very well be rusted frozen, rendering the locking mechanism useless. It's fixable, but a pain when you got big arms like me.

The A/C is the next thing to check, it's gonna be low on fluid probably and R12 ain't cheep. R134 conversion possible, just turn it on and make sure the compressor actually engages.

And lastly switch the gas tanks. If one don't work, you can drive around on one just fine, it's that it's about $600 to get a shop to replace one.

And going along the "rust" issues, look at the front brake lines going to the calipers from the fenders. They are probably pretty rusty, I changed mine out recently and although not really that hard, you do need to have flare nut(aka line) tool to change them out, it's basically a 5 sided open end rench.

Another rust issue; the horn. Mine finally rusted up and one quit working alltogether. I took them off and about 1/2 cup of rust came out of them. Put them back on the truck and the other died 3 days later. So I have a set from a current Ford, but that's $50.

Ask if the rear end has ever been changed, the fluid that is.
Ask if the tranny fluid has ever been changed.
When was the last radiator flush?

If no answer just plan on doing it all.

How to the brakes look on the rear drums? Any fluid at all? That's $150 in parts (drums, shoes, hardware, and cylinders), plus your labor.

How old are the tires?

$4500 seams like dealer pricing.

101,000 miles is low mileage for that old of a truck, but high mileage for that truck.

 

i paid 250$ for my 91 f150 custom short bed, with brand new tires, imacculate interior, and motor. i woulndnt pay over 2000$