Hey Guys,

The clutch in my 95 XLT, 4.9L is very soft. There is almost no bite when i push the pedal to the floor. The pedal also squeaks.

How do i tell if the clutch is going out or the master/slave cylinder is going out?

Thanks

 

First check the fluid in the clutch master. Then check under the truck and see if the bell housing is dripping, if it is then the slave is leaking. Make sure that the system doesn't have any air in it, that will give you a soft pedal.

If the master is bad, it is probably leaking internally and you won't be able to see anything.

A soft pedal is usually from air in the system and it needs to be bled.

Good luck

 

Just wanted to give a little update. I spent a while researching, and finding part #'s. This forum helped me, so hopefully my info will help someone else down the road.

1995 4.9L, Mazda 5-Speed, 10" Disc, Hydraulic Clutch

I figured i would change the master first and see if that helped. It helped some but not much. When i took the old one out, it was full of black gunk... so im glad i changed it. The OEM part # i used was F3TZ-7A543-A.

After i installed the new master, the pedal felt stiffer... but the clutch doesnt engage until the pedal is 7/8 of the way let out. So i figured that means the clutch/slave is bad. I ordered an OEM Slave Cylinder 9L5Z-7A508-A. This is the most current version as of now.. the guy at ford said the part number had changed 10+ times since 1995. I ordered an OEM Clutch repair kit F2TZ-7L596-CA (10"). This has been discontinued by Ford. It has this writing on the disc: Valeo F490/2M 03/06 0105-991 3.55 91565. I assume ford just outsourced this kit from http://www.valeoclutches.com, so maybe someone will have some luck ordering through them since ford no longer carries it. It comes with the Pressure Plate, Disc, TOB and Pilot Bearing.

Hoping to install the new clutch soon, fix a header leak and valve cover leak while in in there.

 

Don't forget to get the flywheel bench ground and you may want to change the rear main seal while you are in there.

 

I do plan to have the flywheel resurfaced, there is a local race shop near my house that usually does them for me.

How hard is it to change the rear main seal? What is the process? Any special tools?

I also read about changing seals on the transmission?

Thanks for all the advice!

 

This is for an automatic, but principle is the same:

http://www.ehow.com/how_5479058_chan...-inline-l.html

Looks like the only special tool you need is a seal driver.

When you have the flywheel out, inspect it for leaks - if it's completely dry, I'd probably just leave it alone. After 18 years, it probably isn't dry.