I have had an oil leak for a few months now but just recently it has gotten a lot worse leaking up to 2 quarts a week. I got under there and the gasket which I don't think has ever been replaced was flopping out of the sides and what not and generally looks like it needs replacing.

I have a general mechanical knowledge and have replaced my steering gearbox and starter with little issues, but do you think I could do this one out in the driveway?

My plan is draining the oil and dropping the pan just enough to put the felpro gasket around it and giving it a nice wipe down then bolting it back. There is an cross support directly underneath it and I'm not sure if I could get it off completely so I figured it would be best to just slip the gasket on. Thoughts?

 

Replaced the oil pan on my dads 95 F150 recently. I give it 3/5 for difficulty. Only special tools i suggest are an engine crane/cherry picker. New oil pan from Ford was a tad over $100 (my cost) and $25 for the Fel-Pro gasket (nice rubber one piece gasket with renforced bolt holes).

Total time was about 3 hrs, but i stretched it out to a few days as i was doing other things also.

First start by spraying the motor mount bolts (the two studs sticking out, one per side, under the engine crossmember) and letting them soak a bit, while waiting drain the oil. Then unbolt them, its tricky but a few extensions and swivels make it quick work. Then remove the EGR fromt he back of the intake. Next disconnect both battery cables, remove the bolt holding the battery cables/trans cooler lines (if equipped) on the passenger side front of the engine block. Use a bungie strap to keep the trans lines out of the way of the bolts and hook up the cherry picker. Next unbolt the fan shroud (i forgot to) and pick the engine up to the max it can go, dont worry the intake will kiss the firewall but it wont hurt anything. Then go under the truck and remove the 25 or 26 1/2" bolts. Be careful not to let the side rails fall and hit ya in the head (oops). After the oil pan is unbolted remove the inspection cover on the trans (if ana uto). Now snake the old pan out, its a tight fit but it will come out. Clean the oil pan rail on the block up, inspect the bottom end, clean the oil pump pick up (replacement is optional of oil pump, i didnt).

Now with the new pan place a few dabs of RTV on the pan rail and set the gasket in place. I let it sit overnight wit the bolts holding the gasket in place with two 4x4s weighin the gasket down so it stays flat. Reinstall oil pan, tricky but it fits. Install the front 3 bolts then start one side with the side rail and go to town. Torque all bolts to 15-18 ft-lbs and set motor back into place. Reinstall EGR, fan shroud, battery cable/cooler line bracket, torque motor mount bolts, replace oil filter and fill with 6 fresh quarts of oil. Start engine, run till warm and check for leaks.

Not to hard but the middle bolts can be tricky and require some extensions/swivels. Repalcement of motor mounts is optional, his were ok so i left em alone. After there is checking for leaks, enjoy a cold beverage of choice (mine was rolling rock ).

 

obviously u would just put the old pan back on and not a new one. this was the easiest and safest way.

 

Can I do this without lifting the motor though? There seems to be enough room to pull it even with the crossmember there.

 

probably but its gunna be real tight.