New member here. First, would like to thank everyone for posting solutions to this forum. The info found here has really helped get this old '89 running again, after sitting for 3 years. I changed a low pressure fuel pump and repaired the dual function reservoir by using your posts as a guideline.

After getting the truck running, I started going after the things that will cause it to fail inspection. The first item I'm working on is the turn signal. (You had to hold the lever up when making a right turn). Since all of the signal, hazard, brake lights ...etc. were working, I decided to try and replace the directional cam instead of the whole switch. I replaced the cam, and the lever locks into position now, but I must have done something that caused a problem on the rear lights.

1. All front turn, hazard lights still work as before.

2. The rear turn lights still work, but now the hazard and brake lights no longer work.

A little more info on things done or tried since the problem was found:
- I did remove battery negative before starting project.
- I unplugged the wire harness at the base of the column to provide slack in the wires, but I have since unplugged again to make sure that none of the pins had backed out of the harness.
- I changed out fuse #1
- I moved the hazard switch around and sprayed wd40 into it as suggested on another site.

Hoping someone here can give me some ideas on what to try next.

 

Replacement cams are crap - the plastic isn't molded correctly, and the "whisker" contacts for the switch aren't bent or trimmed correctly. You have to fight them for a few hours to get them anywhere close to right, and then it still won't always re-center after it cancels. The best way to go is as shown in these pics & described in their captions:

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Thanks for the response Steve. I agree with you on the Dorman Help! cams sold at Autozone and O'reilly's (part# 49301). I tried one of those 1st, and the "latch arms" were about 1/32nd too short to even reach the "hooks" on the switch body. I did find one at Napa (part# DL 6126) that looked like the original part (including green and blue wires), and worked well as far as locking in position. I also agree that the best solution would be to replace the complete switch, but as an under-employed, single father, I have an abundance of time and effort, but very limited funds for new parts.

Based on the symptoms, is there a test that I could use to narrow down if it's a contact wire issue behind the cam, or perhaps something inside the hazard switch? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

It's the cam whiskers. The only way to test it is to remove & disassemble the switch again, at which point there's no reason to put it back in since it's ruint. The only thing to do is order a good switch and install it. I know what you mean about limited funds - I haven't had a normal job for over 2 years. But there's no other option that involves driving the truck safely on public roads. Did you read those captions? That switch was only ~$100 shipped.

 

You were right, it was the whiskers. I pulled everything back apart and found that I may have bent the front set by not being careful that they slid in behind the flat springs, before pressing the cam down into place. I bent them back out, and the brake and hazard lights are working again. I put the cam through about 30 signal cycles, and could not get it to fail again. Hopefully it won't fail, but if it does, I'll give an update here, so that others will know what to expect.

Thanks for your help.