Mine sticks and stalls between high and low and half the time doesn't even turn on the low, just turns off the lights.
Gunna pick one up on my way home friday. Does it matter on brand? Napa has it got 5.xx and advanced has it for 7.xx
Both are on the way home so that doesn't matter. Just wondering if one brand is better or not.

 

Odds are they are made by the same manufacturer. I once bought injectors at autozone and they didn't have enough for what I was working on. So I bought the rest at O'Reilly's. They were in different boxes. AZ said duralast and the others were BWD. On the back of both boxes in small print was the manufactured by name and it was the same. I want to say it was allied signal. They had the same number stamped on the parts too. There was also a difference in price too. O'Reilly's wanted $10 more than AZ but they price matched them. Speaking of which. Check to see if advance would price match Napa if by chance they're different.

 

I'd lean toward NAPA/Echlin, Wells, Standard, or BWD, but for such a cheap/reliable part, it probably doesn't matter. If I needed one, I'd get a Ford/MotorCraft in the JY before buying anything aftermarket.

 

I was considering going to the JY to get one, but with all the trucks being rusty and the switch being on the floor and all I figured it would be hit or miss and the jy is out of the way compared to a parts store. The cheaper napa one says it's their mileage plus brand and the more expensive one is the echelin, I'm gunna look and hope the cheaper one is the same thing.

 

I'm with Steve, the Motorcraft part lasted a long time.
This part sees a lot of amps and its worth getting a name brand part. The Echlin brand has been around for a long time and I have never had any of their parts fail. Check the connector for tightness and burnt terminals.
regards
rikard

 

I got the bwd part from advanced. Seems like a quality part and it wasn't cheap. Napa was closed when I left school friday. I did like seeing that ford used brass(?) screws so they backed right out, the terminal was clean as new and the holes weren't rusted at all. A better design than I thought it would end up looking like.

 

BWD is Borg-Warner Dsomethingorother - a generally good brand.

If you haven't tossed the original, I'd crack it open & see exactly how it failed. Post some pics. Looks like you can just bend back the case tabs around the terminals & pull the switch plate out of the housing.

 

The original is sitting out the house I will crack it open next weekend.
Seems to me like it was just worn out, the spot you hit kinda bound up with the internal switch and spring so it would stick in between off and on.
Probably coulda got more time out of it with some wd, but I was done messing with the lights going on and off between switching.