Okay, how goes it?

question 1, 302 V8 stock minus plugs wires, an cap an rotor upgrade,
LT headers, good upgrade? secondly, are headers for carbed vs EFI different?
someone said yes, but I don't see how it would make any difference at all.
just less tuning with the EFI right?

second, It's a 93 there seems to be a lot of noise/play when i shift from transfer case area I believe now if i up the rpms to match no noise,
for example, i shift from 3 and 1/2 an push the clutch, next gear revs to 2 an a 1/4 if i pre rev to 2 1/4 nothing if not it clunks ect, like your popping the clutch 2 fast people honestly think i cant drive stick lol ..

Third, when I step on the brakes, I hear a clicking noise from the rear, goes click click click click ect.. brakes are worn down, but have never had it click, they are drum brakes on the back....

forth and last, when i downshift coming down a hill to avoid using brakes, I get a lot of squealing when i lift of the clutch, the RPM's come up, just fine and you can feel the motor slowing you, so no real slipping, just a loud nasty squeal.. happens when i bring it up 2 around 4,000 R's an just lift off gas as well, someone said maybe clutch plate or build up on fly wheel or something?

any help at all for these questions would be great, and greatly appreciated thanks a bunch!

 

update, I don't make it a habit of bringing the RPM's up to 4,000 on a daily basis just, when trouble shooting/ making sure that it's going to hold together... thanks ahead of time..

 

exhaust will have to be customized n u gotta make sure to still have your o2 sensor and ur air tube hooke up or else ur check engine light will come on/ not pass inspection

 

yeah the engine light isn't much of an issue, I know a few people whom will over look simple stuff like that if you let them know what its from, I may still try an hook stuff up but I'm not going to run a cat.. going to run true duels, or a 3" with a flow master.. true duels are going to be a B**** because of the 4x4 but if I run it side by side then split it off over the drive shaft then run straight back, I think I could do it that way..

 

run them how u run a regular exhaust both down the same side then after the diff bring one around the spair u cant run down the driverside due to the tank

 

yeah i wasn't thinking about the tank... an i have duel tanks.. so I have to take that into consideration maybe i'll try an run stacks up thru the bed for something different.. maybe just run a 3" single, an throw it out the side.. and be done with it.. I mean who's really looking under the truck anyhow..

 

yea around my way theres alot of single stacks

 

Have you pinpointed the sound when you down shift while going down hill? Is it from the engine bay or from under the truck somewhere?
If it is from the engine bay it might be a bearing in one of the pullies, I had the same problem with my power steering pump. It would yell when I started the truck and when I turned left or when I got up past 3500 rpm's. But now it dosn't make a sound since I replaced it. lol

 

The noise is from under my feet, either something with clutch, or transfer case area, it squeals, and cherps.. a nasty sound I get a lot of looks because of it,
but clutch always grips, downshifting, highway, I popped it from rolling first to second at 4,000 an she grips right off no slip from the clutch at all,
crawled under no leaks, or anything out of place.. tranny was rebuilt not 2 long ago maybe a year or two back.. only 18K on it.. I can't remember if the clutch was done... was my father in-laws truck then. I'll have to ask...

also, a single stack would be neat, A lot of people have comments about them on a truck that isn't diesel, would be neat to run stacks out the hood, just dreaming now not going to do that, probably keep it simple and cheap, until the truck is back to being perfect...

 

Make sure you hook up the o2 sensor. In my experience you'll run rich otherwise. If running LT headers have the exhaust shop (assuming you take it to one) weld the bung on the passenger side header in the collector. That will be the closest place to install it and you'll have to use either a universal o2 or find a pigtail extender. I ran flowtech LTs with 2.5" pipe, x pipe, magnaflow highflow converters, and an 18" Spintech DIDO muffler with little room to spare. If you don't run a cat and use a shorter body muffler I think you could get away with running the driver side pipe behind the T case and have enough room assuming you have a longbed or ext cab (longer wheelbase)

 

Headers won't help anything, but they'll leak and melt things under the hood. If you feel like you just have to, buy shorties and keep the stock Y-pipe so the oxygen sensor works right.

Same for true duals - they won't help anything, and like you say: who's looking under the truck anyway? Keep the stock single pipe thru the cat & just buy a 1in2out muffler. It'll be cheaper, lighter, and the truck will run better.

Check the engine/trans mounts. It's usually the L engine mount that breaks first, but eventually the others will, too.

Pull the rear wheels & drums, and check the brakes.

The squeal is the drivebelt - replace it, and clean all the pullies before installing the new one. If any appear burned or glazed on the grooves, either sandblast them clean or replace them. Don't put belt dressing or anything else on the belt or pullies.

 

hey thanks guys, didn't buy the headers, I'll try replacing the drive belt, but I don't think thats what it is, and I'll check motor mounts ect.. but again don't think they're bad and I'm going to do the brakes..
as far as headers go, everyone says short tube, is easier, but LT produces better sound and more power gains.. so if i buy I'll go long, and the converter is the first thing to go off of all my vehicles but for now I'll just keep stock an fix everything else, then going to go into mods..

 

Deleting the cat doesn't help anything, either. It only hurts.