as i was tightening my bench seat (wich was loose) is saw a tube coming from the engine bay hanging loose, i don't know where it comes from. it goes from a metal tube in a flexibel then metal past the engine then back flex to something on the engine.
what it is and where it comes from is in the pictures.





it goes to the center piece above the alternator on the last pic

 

year, model, motor? where does it run heading back? I seen the break, where does it go to as far as from motor back has to end somewhere, might give more of an idea.. thanks..

 

its the air tube it hooks between the cats ull see a 3/4 inch bung what i did was mine rotted off but the bung was still there i took a piece of 3/4 inch pip n welded it to the tube then got a small pipe clamp to hook the tube to the bung comon problem easy fix

the bung is inbetween the 2 cats reach ur hand up there ull feel it just make sure the pipes aint hot

 

I should have thought of that, need some HD pictures, lol but yep thats what it is..

 

what ral color code could my car have been original? it says x152 on the sticker on the door and i would like to do the repaint in original color since its now red and white.

 

No idea what you are talking about with the ral color code.
But do not for the love of god plug that tube, cut it off, reconnect it to the cat, let it hang there, just don't plug it! You'll end up ruining that air pump which can then lock up and stall the motor and you'll be confused real good.

 

It's the downstream 2ndry air pipe, partially shown at the L of this diagram:



It has rusted off just below the check valve, like most of them do. You need to get it fixed ASAP because it's shooting hot exhaust onto the back of the engine, including the fuel lines, wiring, & vacuum hoses, and very close to the fresh air intake for the ventilation system (which means you're breathing it). There's a tiny U-bolted joint near the cat on the exhaust pipe that you can separate (with some effort) and either make a new pipe (flexible copper, etc.) or try to track down an original.

Plugging the pipe won't affect the air pump. It can lock up no matter what. If so, read this caption:


BTW
I notice you still have a 2G alternator. They're dangerous. It's very easy & cheap to upgrade to a 3G. Just browse the JYs for a 3G with 2 holes between each pair of front ribs (130A) and mounting ears on opposite sides (some Taurus V6s & others) that will bolt up to your bracket (note the unused holes). You'll also need the heavy wire with the ring terminal, and the tiny Bk/Wh wire with the single connector that goes into the alternator case. Unplug your 3-pin voltage regulator connector, but cut the larger 3 wires. The 2 heavy ones go to the single heavy ring terminal, and the smaller wire from that connector goes to the little Bk/Wh on the 3G. You might need a slightly longer belt.

.

Also:
Your truck has the rare fuel injector blower ('87~89 4.9L only) - the thing connected to the hose with the green wire twisted around it. If it still works, fine; if not, it's only taking up space, and can be tossed. It's another fire hazard, as is the module that controls it, usually found on the back of the radiator fan shroud, or near the battery.

The code you posted is the BODY code. The paint codes are ABOVE the words EXTERIOR PAINT, as this diagram indicates. Read the caption:

 

what's wrong with the 2G alternator making it dangerous having?
if i just fill the gap in the cat is it ok, or what does the broken pipe do? could this be the reason sometimes it smells strange in my car?what does the air pump do? if i connect the pipe and it locks up can i still drive it? since its my only DD i can't affort having it broke
how do i toss the fuel blower? or do i just disconnect it?
paint color is "2d"
also where do i find my starter relay? it has been continuing starting couple times, want to replace it before breaking my starter

i still have the foot activated high beam switch but now i would like to know if there's a way to flash them when lights are out?

 

it bring the unused gas back into the engine so ull lose gas mileage. yes its the cause of the smell

 

The 2G main connector catches fire.

Read this for an explanation of each emissions system:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/...ead.php?t=5427

The injector blower is on the R wheelwell, connected to the pipe I described above.


You should be able to find that paint code online. Try these or Google:
http://www.paintscratch.com/
http://paintworldinc.com/

The starter relay is beside the battery.


No flash-to-pass function on your truck. You could wire one up to an aftermarket horn switch on the dash or floor, but it's probably not worth the hassle.

 

on wich cars can i look for a 3g alternator that fits my truck?
new stuff here are pricy. so i might look for a used one but the 4.9 six inline is very rare in europe.

 

They're listed in the caption of the 3G voltage regulator diagram in post #7.

 

I'll help you out and copy/paste that list:

130amp (2 holes between each pair of front ribs) Donors:
'94-95 Mustang 5.0L
'94-00 Mustang 3.8L
'94-97 Thunderbird/Cougar 3.8L
'90-95 Taurus/Sable 3.8L
'93-99 Taurus/Sable 3.0L
'95-98 Windstar 3.8L/3.0L
'91-94 Lincoln Continental 3.8L
'92-97 F-series (optional)
'92-96 E-series (optional)

There are at least 3 mounting bolt configurations among those, so check your mounting bracket carefully.

 

thanks yall

today came up new problems:
since the horn was bad (after testing on a batery) i replaced it with new ones, but i still have no horn, when pushing the horn i don't even hear a click, all the fuses are ok but don't have dash nor instrument iluminating and the gear indicator doesn't work either. also my left braking / flashing light on the left doesn't work. checked light bulb, switched it, checked all the fuses no problems found. the normal lights do work.