I'll start with last first. Balancer is a recent purchase, and I just cleaned the crank sensor and checked the wires this morning. Vacuum tested all the hoses while I had the plenum off installing the new injectors on Friday. I haven't done a leak down test since I replaced the intake valve on #5 about 10K ago. But I did do a full leak down after re-installing the head. And I had every valve out, cleaned, inspected under magnafication and hand lapped. Plus the head has only 85,000 kms. on it. I did a compression test on Friday as well and #2 had 145lbs. I recall when I found the bad valve with the leak down test that it wouldn't give me more than 120lbs. If I can reach my buddy with the leak down tester I'll re-test.
Flammable? Flammable? But, but... I have good insurance.lol. I thought I read on here to take a hose and feed the intake journals with propane from a plumers torch at the gasket? You figure too dangerous? I was abit surprized when I read it myslf but I can't see it causing anything too crazy if done with care. And I figure it's safer than using a can of something aresol. I did try the hose to the ear but can't hear anything. I picked up a set of niod testers so that will be my first check. It ran great for the whole afternoon while I ran around. Scanner went to green light. But soon as I headed for home It coded on me again, I could smell unburnt fuel soon as I fired up. Checked the FPR for any leak, but it's fine. Rail's good too. As I'm reading this over I wonder if the smell of fuel isn't the "smoking gun"? If #2 injector is getting a command for some reason to fire as another injector is as well, it would explain the odor and the misfire if the plug is too wet. I know the motor shook like hell when they sold me those two 19lb. injectors. Possible? Runs great when I can't smell raw fuel.

 

If you can't hear a vacuum leak with the hose, it's not big enough to affect anything, or big enough to detect with propane or aerosols.

I'd pull the EEC & look inside. Another guy found a LOT of green fuzzy corrosion, and a tiny burned capacitor in his.

 

Ok, so I got crazy on the weekend and tested for a leak at the intake with my propane torch and a length of hose.... no leaks detected, eyebrows intack! Pulled the PCM and cracked that puppy wide open. Nothin. Cleaner than my laptop motherboard. Was quite surprized actually. Tested injector circuit with niod light, all good. Couldn't find my buddy to borrow his leakdown tester so I built one today. Cost half the price than buying new too. Will test the cylinder tomorrow. If I don't find anything that needs repair, I think my only next option is to replace the ICM. This code (P0302) has come and gone several times over the weekend so my options are becoming few. I dumped a bottle of lifter ease in for good measure not that the lifter is talking to me.

 

If the ICM passes the tests in that caption, I'd leave it alone. An aftermarket one is much more likely to give you trouble. If you do change it, KEEP the original - I suspect you'll want to put it back in soon.

 

Hey fellow ford people,
I'm back. Sorry for the delay, was out of town.

Well I have narrowed my P0302 code down to an electrical issue. Was moving a trailer in the yard when my p0302 showed up. Got out the spark tester and was able to wittnes intermittent spark on #2. Correct me if I'm wrong, but after talking with a buddy whose a mechanic, he said that this code is strictly caused due to an electrical failure. He went on to say that with this model, the crank sensor sends a signal for number 1 firing position only. The motor then completes a full revolution applying advance for the full firing order based on where the crank sensor located #1 cyl. and making adjustments on the next #1 pass, and so on. Therefore it could not cause this code from the PCM if it (crank sensor) had issues. And the fact that all the other cyl. have no misfire problems could only mean that the wiring harness is in tact also. But if this is how the ignition system works, what stores the BTDC advance setting for #1 cylinder on each pass? Is this not the job of the ICM? Furthermore, could the ICM be dropping the advance command for #2 cylinder? Causing the misfire code? What can cause a misfire & code for only one cylinder when everything electrical seems to checkout. And when the timing light is hooked up, there is a bounce of the timing mark that takes place every few hundred RPM. Could this be another symptom of a bad ICM? I even stopped at the Ford dealer and picked their brain a bit. The guy at the service counter seemed to think the PCM is the problem. Mainly because there's nothing else to check. He thinks it's a ghost code PCM failer. Expensive maybe... But when I said the PCM has nothing to do with creating or delivering spark, he shrugged and said they can't help me. One more thing I will mention is that when I pulled the plug lead from #2 and plugged in the tester. I got a P0300 along with the P0302 code. The P0300 indicating a random misfire of coarse. Distributor, cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs, injectors, and injector connectors all new. After all this if I didn't know any better I'd say I have a spark jumping to ground problem. I can hold the plug lead in my hand, so It's not leaking. I put a fresh plug in this morning just to make sure I didn't have a bad plug. Another symptom is this only occurs at low rpm's. Hwy throttle position (open loop) doesn't seem to cause the miss. But I can't be sure its not missing, just can not hear or feel it. But again there is no smell of raw fuel either, when it doesn't code. If the crank sensor is the problem, does it not bypass and go straight to full advance apon a certain throttle postion and beyond? Thanks for reading, tell me what you all think out there.

PS: I should have included that the bounce in the timing is with the
spout plug removed.

 

Hey I was looking at a ICM on a on-line store which states that Quote;

"AC DELCO DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION CONTROL MODULE -- Designed to control various functions and store diagnostic trouble codes".

I thought the PCM stored the DTC's. Any one able to clarify? Any opinions on manufacture's quality regarding ICM's?

 

No, the ICM has no memory. Probably just the website developer screwed up the description. AC is a good name brand.

Any change in timing with the SPOUT removed is either mechanical (worn timing components) or a bad PIP/ICM.

 

Hey thanks for that Steve83. Ya, I thought that was a typo in the ad. Timing gears are good. And the distributor is new of coarse. I think that ICM has an issue. Did any of that long post make sense? or too much garbarllygoop? Can anyone offer a review on dealing with "Autopartswarehouse.com"? I can get a Motorcraft OE ICM for under $130. and an AC brand for under $95. The dealer wants almost $400 for a Motorcraft brand.

 

Rockauto.com has Motorcraft ICM's for $94.79 (remote mount) and $117.79 (distributor mount). They are a VERY reputable vendor, and they also list several aftermarket ICM's for your truck with prices as low as 27 bucks.

 

I collect ICMs in junkyards for $5-20ea, and ever one I've gotten has worked. Obviously I favor MotorCraft, but I've picked up a few aftermarket ones. Just be sure you get the right style: CCD (black if it's MotorCraft; harder to tell, if it's aftermarket).

 

I thought the remote mount Motorcraft for this unit (96) is grey? That's what is installed now, and illustated on the websites. After finding that DTC misprint I thought I would ask for clarification. Thanks guys.

 

Go back to post #22 of this thread & re-read that diagram and caption.

 

Finally got some down time from work to continue the battle. Turned out the ICM was so old that the metal backing plate had eroded to the point of exposing the circut board. So orderd one from Rock Auto. Was able to get ICM, coil, and two sets of plugs delivered for $25 less than my local parts store could sell me just the ICM for. Hhmm. So installed the new ICM and coil. (Coil looked orig. too) Still got a P0302 code. Again, very intermintent and only when running closed circuit. So the only thing left is the PCM. Talked to my local auto wrecker friend and he said these PCM's are known to have ground fault problems so I'm going to re-check the ground(s) to the unit before I replace it. For anyone jumping in I'll quickly go over the past. New injectors and niod tested harness. Vacuum tested all hoses. Checked for intake and other external air leaks. New EGR. New distributor due to PIP damage. New plugs & leads. New MAF. New ICM. New coil. Pulled and inspected PCM. My O2 sensors are plain two bank system, and will code if unplugged. Checked and cleaned TPS as well. Compression good. Leak down test, OK. Drove hwy and city yesterday putting on over 250 kms. Code scan tool went to green in less than 50 kms. and stayed there all day. But ever fourth or fifth time it read the PCM it would show "error" on the readout. (Left it plugged in) Which has me suspecting the PCM indeed is the problem. Started the truck this morning and got my P0302 right away. Cleared it a couple of times and drove 80kms. Hasn't coded again so far today.

 

I know it's been 2 years, but I wanted to post what turned out to be my coding problem. The miss fire codes (03xx) was in the valve train. The reman company cheaped out on replacing the exhaust seats when they were just old. I know that they were integrally machined originally, but after so many miles the company should of just replaced them. I for one would of happily paid more for the head when I rebuilt the motor had I had the knowledge I feel I do now about fatigued exhaust seats of this design. I trusted that the head was good thinking I got what I paid for. I hope this helps those of you that read this in the future.