Pre-1997 Models

88 F150 6 cyl

Old Mar 31, 2011 | 12:00 PM
  #16  
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Thanks Booba.....Ok, that will work fine, I can check for power and grounds, mine is an 88 and I don't think it will matter, the color codes should be the same. The truck has a 2 inch body lift so it’s relatively easy to get to the connectors. I'll let you know what I find out. Again, I really appreciate your help. I’m pretty good at troubleshooting as I have worked on avionics systems on commercial jets for 25 years. But with ground based vehicles, sometimes I’m a little lost, but it’s not a problem once I understand how the system operates and have a wire diagram.

BTW, the previous owner changed out the filter.
 

Last edited by 5Rangers; Mar 31, 2011 at 12:02 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 01:53 PM
  #17  
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Ok,, the color codes are different so its going to take a little bit more thinking and testing.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 02:44 PM
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I can take a pic of my chiltons and post in here, I literally just got home with my new phone so let me root it and such so I can tether\uplaod the picture. Should have it up by tonight.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 08:26 PM
  #19  
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I don't think it’s going to be a problem with the print Booba, a guy I know at work has a full set of Ford books for a 1990 f150 he GAVE me and from what I can see there are a couple different prints in different sections, one shows a connector with a short pigtail there to the tank switch (which is the same config as mine) and it looks like it has the correct color codes. I won’t know for sure until I get home and look, but I think it’s going to be ok.

From my checks today, I didn't have 12v at the forward pump connector but had a good ground, so I went to the tank switch and sure enough it looks like someone has been there before and did some cobbling together. I was trying to make sure I have volts coming into the switch which it looks like I do, (I'll make sure with the new print), then I'll jumper the connector there at the switch and make sure I get 12v down at the pump connector. Plug her in and see what happens, I’ll do some checks for the rear pump as well as long as I’m there.

I will need a new switch for sure, any ideas on a vendor?

Again, thanks much for your time and will update when I have gotten a little farther, its takes me some time cause I have a 33 month old daughter to attend to and she gets bored just holding tools and watching me.
 

Last edited by 5Rangers; Mar 31, 2011 at 08:31 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 12:59 AM
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I hear ya on that, I just moved 1400 miles and my wife is due to have our first son on 4/6, anytime I go to do something on the truck I get about 1 tool out before I have to go do somethin for her...good times haha, I'll go hunt for a switch for ya.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 01:14 AM
  #21  
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While you've got your meter out you can check the TPS just to make sure it's okay, but I've never seen it cause this problem. It should check out at ~.97volts when the throttles closed, and around 4.55volts at WOT. It is literally a potentiometer, as you open the throttle it turns the TPS and makes the voltage go up slightly. Lemme see if I can find a thread on it...I'm thinking that www.lmctruck.com would have the switch, but their website is not the easiest to use...Might as well check the inertia switch while your at it, is just to the left of the brake pedal under the dash, I'll go find a pic...it's basically a shut-off switch for the fuel system.

TPS thread: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=21
Interia switch:
 

Last edited by booba5185; Apr 1, 2011 at 01:19 AM.
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 01:27 AM
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And here's the selector switch, I believe it's number 15:
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=35
 
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 09:54 AM
  #23  
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Thanks for finding a catalog with a parts breakdown. I will check the TPS and verify at some point.

The latest update after using the correct wire diagram, is I have power at the tank switch for the indication circuit but no pwr for the pump circuit, another check at the connector at the inertia switch revealed no power there either, next stop fuel pump relay.

Congrats on the new youngin comin into the world!!!!

Update: I'm replacing both in tank pumps, niether work after getting volts down to the connectors. The main pump sounds like doggy doo, and looks worse, it's been cobbled in its past so I'm replacing it too. Just need a 5/16s blade receptacle there. Pulled down the rear tank and its a 38gal aftermarket, whoever installed it didn't put a sender in, so thats why the guage didn't work, got the kit and fixed it all up, so I'll be hanging the tank soon. Should be getting fuel into the eng compt any day now.
 

Last edited by 5Rangers; Apr 14, 2011 at 01:08 AM.
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