on the way home from work the truck started running like it was out of fuel . It would come out of it then start again . Gauge said it is not out . Died in the drive way and will not start again . Pushed it into the garage . With key on the pressure gauge goes to and holds at 40psi . It does fire but will not start . This is all I was able to do tonight . All plug wires are on. I have not pulled the cap yet .This is all I was able to do tonight .

What next and what is the best order .

Thank you

 

If you have 40 PSI and holding KOEO, it is less likely to be a fuel issue but do all the standard checks anyway. How long does it hold pressure after you switch the key off? Have you pulled the vacuum line off the FPR to see if fuel is present? How many miles since you changed the fuel filter? Do you have dual tanks and if so does the problem persist with both tanks?

 

Get a digital multimeter, and follow the ignition diagnostic procedure in this caption:

 

I did the pressure test a little closer . 40 when switched on . pressure drops to 11lbs at 1 minute with key on . When key is turn off it drops to around 6psi at 2 minutes . It starts dropping both ways ( key on or off ) . When cranking over it jumps back anfd forth between 40-45 psi . Fuel filter changed around 5,000 miles ago .
Front tank only works on rare occasion (1 out of 50times when switched ).I do not hear it run and it shows no pressure on the gauge . Tank is full of fuel even though I have not put fuel in it in over two years . I have only put fuel in the rear tank the last 2-3 years and the way the gauge drops it seams it bleeds over ? I did put 2-3 gal in the rear tank today just to make sure the gauge was working and it did register the fuel added .

Steve
I will print off your instructions tomorrow and see if I am smart enough to figure them out . I've read it several times tonight and am a little intimadated ! Is it possible for me to run these tests by myself ( one man show ) ? There is spark coming from the coil . When turning over it sounds like timing is off and my fear is timing chain has jumped ? 230,000 on the old girl . Everything was fine in the morning and then coming home this started about half way .

thanks guys for your knowledge !

 

It's not really important what the pressure does when the pump ISN'T running.The FP only runs for ~1sec if the engine is turning less than 200RPM (stopped), even if you leave the key in RUN for days.Read this caption:

Well, congratulate yourself for reading it more than once! Most people give up if they don't understand the whole process from the first few words, so you're already ahead of the pack. Yes, you can do it alone. Just ignore the references to breakout box pins (since you don't have the breakout box) and concentrate on wire colors, EEC pins (numbered SUPER-tiny on the connectors), and ICM pins (given in the diagram). When it says to check something with the components connected, use a regular stickpin to pierce the wire temporarily and provide a terminal for the meter probe.

 

I didn't make it past AA 9 . I bought a Lisle 20610 inline spark tester ( I;ve just gone past the old plug in the wire method ! ) The spark from the coil to the cap lit up very well . The spark from the cap to the plugs was very weak if at all . The terminals inside the cap look worse than I originally thought and I'm ashamed to say I don't remember if I;ve ever put a cap and rotor on this truck . I did wires a couple of years ago . I'll get a cap and rotor and give it a shot . Could I be so lucky !
Just for the hell of it I tried as it says on the EEC diagram and tried to force the the pumps on by grounding a test light and jumping terminal A . The rear one I have been using ran as it has been and the front one did nothing . Does this confirm that the front one is junk ?

 

Not until you test voltage & ground at the inoperative pump. Use a 12V test light from one pump wire to the other. If it lights while the rear pump is running, the front pump is trash. If not, you have a wiring fault.

 

Steve ,

There are 4 wires going into the front tank :

black w white stripe
pink black stripe

yellow

gray w red stripe

Are these the wires I run the test on ? Just ground the light to the frame and peirce one or all 4 of the wires with the selector switch on the rear tank ?

Thanks for your help