95 F150 w/300 inline 6
95 F150 w/300 inline 6
I have a 95 F150 with a manual transmission when i got it if you depressed the throttle over half way it would stall as if it were a automatic that has reached its governed limit it would do this at any speed in any gear. now i have replaced the plugs,wires,distributor cap,rotor button,o2 sensor, egr valve posistion, egr vacumn solenoid, coolant temp sensor, intake air temp sensor, intake gaskets,throttle position sensor,fuel filter, fuel pump relay and idle air controll valve. the stalling has stopped now it jerks and stumbles when accelerating and under load as in going up hills on flat ground it does fine.it also is hard to start cold or hot but is somewhat better when it is warmed up. i'm lost and tired of replacing blindly
Last edited by cheese71906; Dec 9, 2009 at 11:07 PM.
Is it MAP or MAF? OBD1? Have you run an Error code scan? It doesn't have to have the CEL light on to have error codes in the continuous memory. Your close, don't throw in the towel! Instructions for manually testing: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13g Or the easy way(digital numeric display):http://www.handsontools.com/Equus-In...ol_p_5574.html
Last edited by ymeski; Dec 10, 2009 at 04:08 AM.
I have seen MAF wiring problems. Doesnt sound like that though cause its a constant problem. You might try screwing with the wires to see if that makes a difference.
Obviously check the fuel pressure as well.
Obviously check the fuel pressure as well.
Last edited by OGmackPLRcool; Dec 10, 2009 at 12:40 PM.
Without an error code scan, if I had to throw a part and it is a MAP engine........A new MAP sensor. check this link, .http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=27 It should tell you how to test it separately.If it's MAF, it could be a MAF cleaner douching will do it!
it does have a map sensor and i had it tested and it is properley working i have also checked for codes the codes i got were engine coolant temp sensor and tps since i replaced them and cleared the codes it has no codes and the fuel pressure is checked out good i have also checked the cats i know the rear one is fine i havent checked the front one yet but the exhaust feels hotter than i have felt any other exhaust before
Did you check for vacuum leaks? The MAP sensor may be functioning perfectly but if there is a cracked or broken vacuum line the engine will not run correctly.
How exactly did you test only one catalytic converter? And how did you ascertain that it was OK?
How exactly did you test only one catalytic converter? And how did you ascertain that it was OK?
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there is a coupling between it and the muffler so i took it apart and there is nothing in the one i shouldnt say its ok as much as its not stopped up cause undoubtley the person i bought it from busted the inside out now its just a hollow case. most of the vacumn lines have been replaced the ones i havent look fairly new
You know, with all the s...stuff you have replaced, I'd really be tempted to disconnect the battery for a minimum of 5 minutes to claer the KAM (Kept Adaptive Memory). If a sensor continues to send out of range input to the ECU, eventually the ECU locks out that input and substitutes a generic input amount for that sensor. Clearing the KAM resets all sensors for a fresh memory rebuild. Clearing only the continuous memory does not accomplish this. This seems especially helpful regarding initial intake air and secondary air (EGR) issues. By the way, did you remove the EGR, clean the valve & EGR valve intake manifold portways & inspect the valve for function and diaphragm integrity?
i have also checked the cats i know the rear one is fine i havent checked the front one yet but the exhaust feels hotter than i have felt any other exhaust before
if you put your hand over it you can hold your hand tight against it and when i hold my hand against any other exhaust the pressure will not let me hold a seal on it with my hand but i have not put a gauge or anything on it with it at idle every few seconds you will feel a small burst of air from the tail pipe and then nothing





