Pre-1997 Models

distributor will not turn, is stuck

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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 08:59 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ymeski
Not to be confused w/ Pinging? You said it was at 8BTDC when you initially checked the timing. It is very common for mechanics to retard from stock base timing of 10BTDC to hide detonation from a customer or prospective purchaser. It doesn't retard 2 degrees by itself. Do you guys run ethenol back there?
Really? See now that make sme think, cause I bought this motor for $400 from craigslist because my original motor was junk. The guy said it had 60k miles on it and I saw the mint truck that had been hit in the rear, that seemed to be the only damage, so i bought the motor .

ya it was at 8btdc and running like crap, now it runs so much better no pinging, it turns out I forgot to install the spout connector, now the (diesel like) noise is absolutely gone, but the ticking on the pass side is still there under the previous conditions mentioned above. could a vacum leak cause the ticking? seems that there is a vacum like hiss (very minimal) at 1/4 ways up on the gas pedal then as I keep gassing it up it stops.

So right now the ONLY problems are 2:

1- the ticking, that I will check with a stethoscope

2- the hiss sucking noise that sounds almost like it could be vacum.

any tips?
once again guys, I'm so very greatful for your advise!

boston
 
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 10:37 AM
  #17  
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From: Joplin MO
You are getting spark knock. Retard the timing or use high octane gas.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 12:46 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by glc
You are getting spark knock. Retard the timing or use high octane gas.
YOu say I'ts spark knock? the ticking or the hissing?

- The ticking and hissing occur when ignition timing is retarded or advanced regardless, so it is not the timing.

-the knocking that lasted for a second at throtle was fixed and it was due to not having put in the spout connector post timing advance. so that is no longer a symptom, it's fixed.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 11:05 PM
  #19  
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From: Joplin MO
Sorry, I forgot to check the second page before I replied. That was spark knock you were getting with the spout off.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 10:26 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by glc
Sorry, I forgot to check the second page before I replied. That was spark knock you were getting with the spout off.
Yes I figured that, thank you. Today I actually got to probe with a stethoscope and there is no abnormal ticking on either valve cover at all, a very slight almost non audible ticking on the header tubes (both sides but more on the pass side) and the noise gets louder as I stab the header to downpipe flange on the exhaust! the ticking is exaclty as I hear it in the cabin, tick, tick, tick...I cannot hear air escaping anywhere around the flange but this area is where the ticking is the loudest...

Any ideas? I will loosen the flanges and re-seat them and adjust each bolt lil by lil evenly to see if I can fix that ticking issue, otherwise if it's not that, I can't figure it out.
What do you guys think?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 01:33 PM
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Wouldn't hurt to Loosen & re-torque the exhaust Manifold to spec. in proper bolt down order . Sorry, to hear about the big C. That's one option, nobody orders. My ticker hit a little bump in the road a year or so ago. It took a little time for the fuzz to wear off my mental presidigitation! But, now I'm feeling so confident, I'm making up my own words! Ain't no thang! Might I add, you punctuation is immaculate!
 

Last edited by ymeski; Dec 13, 2009 at 05:05 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 02:55 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ymeski
Any ideas? I will loosen the flanges and re-seat them and adjust each bolt lil by lil evenly to see if I can fix that ticking issue, otherwise if it's not that, I can't figure it out.
What do you guys think?

It is rather common. Wouldn't hurt to re-torque the exhaust Manifold to spec. in proper bolt down order also. Exhaust ticks always seem to occur on the passenger side for some reason. Must have something to do the way the weight of the exhaust system leverages on the manifolds. Add some Jarring & vibration and eventually....Tick,tick,tick! If I remember correctly, one of Fords "Better Ideas" is no gasket. A little bit of high temp. warpage and "Presto"! There are after market gaskets available.[/QUOTE]

WIfe and baby and I went to a gift grab and animal show for the lil ones so I didnt have a chance to re-torque these today, I'll shoot for tomorrow and see if that is the problem, wish I had a garage cause its pouring outside. Either way the headers I used on this replacement motor were were jb headers and old pair I had sitting and I also did use gaskets. I didn't use spec for torque, I just torqued with a 3/4" drive socket and that's it, I'm a strong guy and I did it pretty tight months ago, but I will still re-do it as soon as I get a chance.

I'll post an update soon!
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 03:04 PM
  #23  
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From: missing Texas...
Originally Posted by 1991f150boston
...and I never had a distributor on any of my 5.0 mustangs,...
Originally Posted by tarajerame
so how did your 5.0 mustangs run if they didn't have distrubutors???
Originally Posted by 1991f150boston
WHo what? c'mon If it's a typo I'm sorry, I meant that I normally ran my mustangs at 12 degrees base timing (first line after the 10 degree mark)

 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 03:27 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by tarajerame
I can't find "Typo" on the keyboard! Does it require using the "control key"? Ctrl-Alt-Del? I'll keep looking.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 03:58 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by tarajerame

I need some solid advise please. I'm looking to set my timing since its set at 18 degrees ...and I never had a distributor on any of my 5.0 mustangs **stick this way***, but the one on my truck will not budge. i have tried soaking it with pb-blaster for 4 days with no luck. I do not want to tap or pry on it since I have seen these break. Any ideas?

I just had to fix the paragraph,I really meant to say that I never had a distributor on any of my 5.0 mustangs stick the way that this one on my f150 had been stuck. I'm fighting cancer and it's tough to focus sometimes overall.

but please keep the good ideas coming now that all I'm dealing with is the ticking coming from the exhaust flange, I'll take a look when I can this week.

thank you guys, this forum rocks!
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 05:25 PM
  #26  
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Wouldn't hurt to loosen, then re-torque the exhaust Manifold to spec. in proper bolt down order. Lubricate the studs so there all play fair during their torquing. Sorry to hear about the big"C". My ticker hit a little bump in the road a year or so ago and it took a little time for the Fuzz to wear off my mental prestidigitation. now I'm feeling so confident, I'm making up my own words (like any of these guys would crack open a Dictionary. Hell, spell check would be an improvement) Ain't no thang!. Might I add, your punctuation was almost immaculate! NOTE: Prestidigitation is in the Dictionary. Your gonna have to wait for one of my gems.
 

Last edited by ymeski; Dec 13, 2009 at 05:50 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 06:47 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ymeski
Wouldn't hurt to loosen, then re-torque the exhaust Manifold to spec. in proper bolt down order. Lubricate the studs so there all play fair during their torquing. Sorry to hear about the big"C". My ticker hit a little bump in the road a year or so ago and it took a little time for the Fuzz to wear off my mental prestidigitation. now I'm feeling so confident, I'm making up my own words (like any of these guys would crack open a Dictionary. Hell, spell check would be an improvement) Ain't no thang!. Might I add, your punctuation was almost immaculate! NOTE: Prestidigitation is in the Dictionary. Your gonna have to wait for one of my gems.
Glad you are feeling good now! I'm almost over the hum thank God, my truck though its old gives me an alternative to the lil I can do.

I will try to re-torque in proper order as you stated above, perhaps tomorrow. just one thing, JBA advises on using hi temp rtv silicone on the female part of the flange. Its states this on step 8 of this page : http://www.fordf150.net/howto/headers.php
I didn't do this, I think I will try that.

thanks!
 

Last edited by 1991f150boston; Dec 13, 2009 at 06:55 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 08:57 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 1991f150boston
Glad you are feeling good now! I'm almost over the hum thank God, my truck though its old gives me an alternative to the lil I can do.

I will try to re-torque in proper order as you stated above, perhaps tomorrow. just one thing, JBA advises on using hi temp rtv silicone on the female part of the flange. Its states this on step 8 of this page : http://www.fordf150.net/howto/headers.php
I didn't do this, I think I will try that.

thanks!
Sounds good to me. Be sure to give it plenty of set time to allow maximum Bondatization!<---(See, that's mine. Not one of my better ones. I don't point those out & just see if they'll fly. If spell check refuses to recognize them, your one the right track.)
 
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 01:24 AM
  #29  
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just a moot point now but I had a 351 clevland that the distributor was frozen in the hole. I poured coke around it and let it sit overnight. The next morning I was able to turn it with 1 finger
 
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 09:33 AM
  #30  
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sorry to hijack but, He said his mustangs dist never stuck.

Also, my gto does'nt have a distributer the computer controls timing.

Good job on the custom tool, is that by design or i the dist just binding from corosion or something.
 
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