Pre-1997 Models

1989 5.0L Problems

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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 12:49 AM
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From: Eglin AFB, FL
Exclamation 1989 5.0L Problems

I just bought a 1989 F150 with an autmatic transmission and 5.0L. I only paid $1000 and knew it would have some issues but need some help with some.
First, when cruising at around 65, or any time it gets to overdrive, it is jerky. Almost like there's a miss, but RPMs are steady. If i drop it down to drive or just give it gas, making it drop down a gear, it stops, runs perfectly. I'm thinking a torque converter issue.
Secondly, the steering wheel can be moved probably a 1/4 inch both ways before there is movement. I had read on here somewhere something about tightening the screw on the steering box. Is this just a cover up of a bigger problem?
Also, at speeds up to about 60, the speedometer jumps about 5mph. I.E.- if I'm doing 35 it will continuosly bounce between 27 and 33 or so.
Lastly, is there a way to know if a vehicle has a performance cam in it? The idle isn't rough, but kind of odd. The previous owner(family) says he tihnks the person before him had put one in but wasn't sure...
Any help is appreciated.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 09:26 AM
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glc
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I would look at the ignition system for the jerkiness first - replace the plugs, wires, rotor, and cap. That may also fix the rough idle.

For the steering wheel slop, check your steering linkage - tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm - for play first.

The jumpy speedo is probably a sticky speedo cable, replace it.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 11:21 AM
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From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
Which trans does it have? Read this caption:



I wish my steering wheel only had 1/2" play. I've never driven an '80-96 Ford truck with steering that tight, even new. Don't mess with the steering box preload until you've checked all the linkage & suspension a FEW times. The radius arm & axle pivot bushings could be original.

The only way to know for sure about the cam is to pull it out & have it measured, but it's probably stock (worn out).

You can pull the speedo cable out of the trans (t-case if 4WD; VSS if it has cruise), then pull the cluster, pull the actual cable out of the sheath, rinse the sheath with brake cleaner into a catch-pan, wipe the cable down, & reinstall it with teflon grease.


 
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 10:17 PM
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From: Eglin AFB, FL
I plan on putting it on a lift as soon as it gets here on Thursday. I already know I have a tie rod end worn out at the bare minimum....
Also, on the way home my alternator bracket and belt tensioner came off. I know this is due to the previous owners putting new heads on and using the wrong hard-ware. I was wondering if I bought E7 heads from a Fox body mustang 5.0, if they would fit and if there would be any change in power.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 06:52 AM
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Any ideas on the heads? Also, I found an used K&N intake system for $125 with everytihng, is this a fair price?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 12:51 PM
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Why not just put the right bolts in the current heads? If the threads in the heads are damaged, just helicoil them. Quick, cheap, effective, reliable, maintainable...

If you mean a FIPK, they aren't worth a buck, IMO. A drop-in is superior.
 
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