new guy with 1988 F150
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From: Burlington Vt
new guy with 1988 F150
This being my first post I will take the opportunity to introduce myself, I am Jesse, I am a tattoo and piercing shop owner and body piercer here in Burlington Vt. I picked up an 88 F150 yesterday, this is my first truck, and only my second vehicle ever. I don't know a whole lot about these trucks yet, but am looking to learn.
This truck has a 3" body lift, its rolling on 33" M/T baja belted tires, has the 302 EFI V8, 5 speed manual transmission, the 4 wheel drive works well
After running for a while it seems to have issues keeping idle. I drove it home from the guy I bought it from which involved 45min of highway riding, and then 2 blocks from my house it almost stalled at a stop sign, and then one block away it did stall. lifting the hood reviled a lose white wire to the positive lead on the battery, I tightened that and it started (it was hesitant to start, but started) and then wile idling in the drive way it stalled again. The idle speed just slows down and then cuts out all together, there is no falter with any of the lights when this happens, and if I keep my foot on the gas to keep the RPMs up it stays alive. I am going to give the spark plugs a check to see if they are fouled, and if the engine seems to be running rich or lean, and I plan on changing the fule filters as well and then sending some fule injector cleaner threw it. (I hope that takes care of the issue)
The steering had a little play in it.
Other than that it seems like a good running truck, the clutch doesn't slip at all, sifts smoothly, over all everything is clean, not a lot of rust (almost no body rust) Im hoping that a little tinkering is going to make this a reliable driver. I dont need it for a daily rider, more of a tool/equiptment hauler/back up vehicle.
did a little looking over of the truck, the roll bar is only bolted to the bed, nothing connecting it to the frame. coolant resivwar is empty, but radiator is full, oil is full and clean, the lock out hubs seem to work, they turn smoothly and click when they get to the "lock" and "free" settings, started right up this morning and kept an idle for a while and didn't cut out. I got under it while it was idleing and saw that the pipe that is on it is only connected to one header, but there are no leaks from end to end, so I just have to run another pipe off the other header.
I also found that the air intakes where not actually connected to the air filter, so I am wondering if that made it run too lean once it was warmed up and caused the engine cutting out.
This truck has a 3" body lift, its rolling on 33" M/T baja belted tires, has the 302 EFI V8, 5 speed manual transmission, the 4 wheel drive works well
After running for a while it seems to have issues keeping idle. I drove it home from the guy I bought it from which involved 45min of highway riding, and then 2 blocks from my house it almost stalled at a stop sign, and then one block away it did stall. lifting the hood reviled a lose white wire to the positive lead on the battery, I tightened that and it started (it was hesitant to start, but started) and then wile idling in the drive way it stalled again. The idle speed just slows down and then cuts out all together, there is no falter with any of the lights when this happens, and if I keep my foot on the gas to keep the RPMs up it stays alive. I am going to give the spark plugs a check to see if they are fouled, and if the engine seems to be running rich or lean, and I plan on changing the fule filters as well and then sending some fule injector cleaner threw it. (I hope that takes care of the issue)
The steering had a little play in it.
Other than that it seems like a good running truck, the clutch doesn't slip at all, sifts smoothly, over all everything is clean, not a lot of rust (almost no body rust) Im hoping that a little tinkering is going to make this a reliable driver. I dont need it for a daily rider, more of a tool/equiptment hauler/back up vehicle.
did a little looking over of the truck, the roll bar is only bolted to the bed, nothing connecting it to the frame. coolant resivwar is empty, but radiator is full, oil is full and clean, the lock out hubs seem to work, they turn smoothly and click when they get to the "lock" and "free" settings, started right up this morning and kept an idle for a while and didn't cut out. I got under it while it was idleing and saw that the pipe that is on it is only connected to one header, but there are no leaks from end to end, so I just have to run another pipe off the other header.
I also found that the air intakes where not actually connected to the air filter, so I am wondering if that made it run too lean once it was warmed up and caused the engine cutting out.
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From: Long Beach, Ca.
I wold start w/ buying one of these! It will save you a lot of time & money figuring out this problem and any in the future:http://www.handsontools.com/Equus-In...ol_p_5574.html And a Maintenance/Repair manual so you can talk apples & apples rather than apples and oranges when conversing on the forum (Knowing what and where things are on the truck accelerates your learning curve). That being said, Welcome to the Forum and everybody's happy to help where they can. CuzDayluvz "FORDS"! Gimme an "F"!.............................................. ................well, what with Thanksgiving and all.Timings everything with this kind of stuff! You did mention some things that obviously require attention, so I would start w/ those. The Idle misbehavior could be quite a few things. Vac system leak, IAC, or TPS to name the first couple that come to mind.
Last edited by ymeski; Nov 26, 2009 at 06:08 PM.
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From: Dover AFB DE / Harrisburg PA
Howdy and welcome. Needles make me queezy, so I'll try not to pass out here...
You can borrow or rent a fuel pressure gauge to see what you have at the fuel rail, but a filter would be a good start to change anyway. No special tools are required for an 88's fuel lines.
Codes can be also checked for free using the directions at www.fordfuelinjection.com if you don't mind a few minutes of counting blinky lights. Codes could point to a bad Idle Air Controller or Throttle Position Sensor which would also cause your problems.
Have fun with your 4x4!
Adrianspeeder
You can borrow or rent a fuel pressure gauge to see what you have at the fuel rail, but a filter would be a good start to change anyway. No special tools are required for an 88's fuel lines.
Codes can be also checked for free using the directions at www.fordfuelinjection.com if you don't mind a few minutes of counting blinky lights. Codes could point to a bad Idle Air Controller or Throttle Position Sensor which would also cause your problems.
Have fun with your 4x4!
Adrianspeeder
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From: Concord, NC
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From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
A code reader isn't necessary; a paperclip is more reliable for EEC-IV, IMO. Read the thread linked in this caption:
For the battery terminals, read these captions:
The stall you described is most likely due to a sticking IAC, which is fairly easy & cheap to replace.
Since it runs fine at highway speeds, it's not likely fuel pressure or spark plugs, although it doesn't hurt to check them. If the plugs are worn/fouled, these engines seem to prefer the cheapest AutoLites that Wal-Mart sells. Check eBay for an older version of the Haynes manual; the newest edition has been 'decontented', so it's not desirable.
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For the battery terminals, read these captions:
The stall you described is most likely due to a sticking IAC, which is fairly easy & cheap to replace.
Since it runs fine at highway speeds, it's not likely fuel pressure or spark plugs, although it doesn't hurt to check them. If the plugs are worn/fouled, these engines seem to prefer the cheapest AutoLites that Wal-Mart sells. Check eBay for an older version of the Haynes manual; the newest edition has been 'decontented', so it's not desirable.
. .
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From: Burlington Vt
thanks for all the help and info. Here's to hoping that the snow holds off for a little bit longer so I can get some of the kinks work out of the truck without rolling in the snow.
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From: Burlington Vt
Just ran a self check test and came up with codes of 11 for KOEO
the CM came up with 18, and 33
and then the KOEO came up with 44, 33, 77, 52
so if I read those right it means I passed the KOEO, had IDM circuit failure, and EGR valve opening not detected in the memory
and in the KOER the Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (Right side), the EGR again, System failed to recognize brief WOT during Dynamic Response Test (user error), Power steering pressure switch always open or closed.
Im hoping none of it is too hard to fix. as far as I can tell none of it is affecting how the truck drives, the only thing that is overly wrong with it right now is it searches for idle once its warmed up, and I am hoping that gets fixed when I replace the IAC.
the CM came up with 18, and 33
and then the KOEO came up with 44, 33, 77, 52
so if I read those right it means I passed the KOEO, had IDM circuit failure, and EGR valve opening not detected in the memory
and in the KOER the Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (Right side), the EGR again, System failed to recognize brief WOT during Dynamic Response Test (user error), Power steering pressure switch always open or closed.
Im hoping none of it is too hard to fix. as far as I can tell none of it is affecting how the truck drives, the only thing that is overly wrong with it right now is it searches for idle once its warmed up, and I am hoping that gets fixed when I replace the IAC.
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From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
There's no telling how old those codes are, so clear them (the right way; DON'T disconnect the battery if you can avoid it) & see if any come back.
The IDM code could be a coil getting weak, so test it the way Haynes describes.
The EGR & 2ndry air codes could be a vacuum leak, which was already a possibility from the idle symptom, so check thoroughly. The coffee can is a common culprit.
The PSP code is also operator error. All of that is explained in the link in that caption.
The IDM code could be a coil getting weak, so test it the way Haynes describes.
The EGR & 2ndry air codes could be a vacuum leak, which was already a possibility from the idle symptom, so check thoroughly. The coffee can is a common culprit.
The PSP code is also operator error. All of that is explained in the link in that caption.