Pre-1997 Models

New guy with "new" old truck

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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 10:07 AM
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New guy with "new" old truck

Just bought a 85 F150 last night (have to get it today) for $450.....and it RUNS/DRIVES...

SOOOOO, today I'm going to the parts store and get all the tune up stuff that I don't have stored up in bins in my garage (I'm a big mustang guy, with a fairmont (and will have another one this week....a wagon!!! )) So I have a stockpile of 5.0 parts laying around.

Don't have any pictures as it's still at the guys house, but I'll get some up before the w/e hopefully.

Just thought I'd give a heads up and introduce myself.


Brad
 
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 10:47 AM
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didn't have near the spare ignition parts I thought I did... bummer. Parts store here I come
 
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 10:53 AM
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Welcome, now pics or immediate BAN! Apparently it has the 5.0, but how about everything else? Sounds like a good work/parts truck! What have you done with your Fairmont, and what are the plans with the Wagon? I like those cars!
 
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Sparkadellic
Welcome, now pics or immediate BAN! Apparently it has the 5.0, but how about everything else? Sounds like a good work/parts truck! What have you done with your Fairmont, and what are the plans with the Wagon? I like those cars!
Ya, the truck has the 5.0. Today I put new plugs/wires/cap/rotor, oil/filter, charged battery, new cables (pos/neg), popped out a small dent on pass. side door, replaced a couple of bulbs. Tomorrow I'm going to set timing, if I can get the dist. to turn....joker WILL NOT turn, but I soaked it down with some PB Blaster. Which reminds me, is the truck like the mustangs in as much that it has a "spout connector" that you need to pull to check/change timing? Also going to install new ingition lock cylinder and R&R the trans filter/fluid and fuel filters.

The fairmont has ALOT done to it....for starters it has EVERY harness out of a wrecked 1990 Mustang GT, front to back!! Then we installed the dash and part of the center console out of said Mustang , this was done because we also cut out the tire well of the fairmont and removed the tank so we could splice/weld in the tire well/gas tank/cover/straps/fuel filter all from the mustang since I have the gauge cluster etc from there....lol. Then we put in the 331 stroker (fully forged), B50 block with TFS stage 2 heads and cam with ported cobra upper/lower intake, edelbrock gear drive, that was in my 92 coupe (with Incon Twin Turbo kit on it) with FULLY built AOD, 1994/95 front spindles and entire rear disk brake setup with 31 spline mosers/3.27 turbo friendly rear end out of a 1996 Mustang GT, 2003 Mach I rims. Also has Tokicko 5 way adjustable shocks/struts, maximum motorsports caster/camber plates, lincoln mark 8 fan with DC Controller, big alum radiator and one of the biggest trans coolers from "LONG".

Right now it is in limbo as I'm looking for a T76 turbo to put on it, the twins were AWESOME on my coupe but it took almost 2 hours to change plugs on it!! So now it's got a stage 3 Ponydown turbo kit on it (hotside) with 3.5" down pipe (I think) all jethot coated with a MONSTER intercooler (the kit is SUPPOSEDLY good to 1400HP, well beyond my sportsman block!!) All I need for it now is a Mass air meter, some misc pushlok fittings, couple inline pumps (getting them from a buddy, even though they were originally mine when I had the twins on the coupe!!), a sumped tank from him as well. Dang I just realized I'd done a TON of crap to that car since I got if for $200 bucks a few years ago with 84K original miles on it!!!!! One of my best steals to date!! We even drove it up on the trailer!!! (was in south carolina, I live in georgia!!)

The wagon, I'm still undecided on that one. If my 15 y/o son doesn't want it (which he claims he doesn't ) he may get the truck (if it's still around). I may put this other turbo I have laying around (GT4082) on the truck OR the wagon, but it won't be crazy like my 4 door.........RIIIIIIIIGHT.

I'll try and get some pictures of the truck and the fairmont tomorrow when it's light outside. Until then this will have to do.---> my fairmont thread on 4eyedpride

I can't find the video I have of the fairmont running but when I do I'll add it in here...

Brad
 
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 07:03 PM
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If the dist has a vacuum or mechanical advance, it won't have a SPOUT. But if the TFI is mounted to the dist, the SPOUT connector will be right there taped to the harness.



I recommend MotorCraft ATF, or at least some name-brand. Not store or off-brand. Use this & the link in its caption to determine which type:

 
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 07:43 PM
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double check your profile it says you have a 1958 F150
 
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 07:22 AM
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Fixed Pat..thanks.

Steve, That's where I was thinking it should be (that's where it is on my mustan....err fairmont ;-)
 
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 11:06 AM
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Got a new gas tank, intank pump/assembly put in today, just waiting for the oring in the gasket for the filter to be ready then it will be time to fire it off and see how she does.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by NXTTIME
I just put a new tank/pump assembly in my 85 F150 and now the system won't prime, both the inline and intank have been hooked straight to a battery to make sure they work and they are.
You're saying you have no fuel pressure, even after hotwiring the pumps so they run??? How much gas is in the tank? Is the fuel filter blocked? Is a fuel line kinked?
Originally Posted by NXTTIME
...you could turn the key off and pull the key out of the ignition (truck still running AND radio ON) then turn off the radio and it would shut the truck off....WTF?????? Turn the radio on and the pump would prime....now I get no priming whatsoever, but radio still works.

I have NOT been able to find ANY diagrams that look useful with regards to either the fuse block (in truck) or any wiring diagrams that I can use to track stuff down with...
That's definitely some freaky wiring, but start with the basics: find all the grounds in the kick panels & the engine bay; remove, clean, & tighten them. Most of them use a distinct green screw/bolt, so they should be easy to spot. There may be a couple in each kick panel, and probably 3-5 under the hood. One that's known to be a problem on '87-91 trucks is on the back of the core support near the battery, but closer to the radiator. It can rust completely off due to vapors from the battery.

Then check the battery terminals the same way.



Regardless of what else you find, I always recommend this mod for '84-91 trucks:



There are more electrical problems/fixes in the TSB & FSA album in my signature link. Read the applications list at the top of each article to see if yours is affected.
 

Last edited by Steve83; Sep 15, 2009 at 10:57 PM.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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NO POWER TO FUEL PUMP after new tank/pump install

Originally Posted by Steve83
You're saying you have no fuel pressure, even after hotwiring the pumps so they run???
No, the pumps came on when I hotwired them, there is no power getting to the pump when I turn on the key (priming)

Originally Posted by Steve83
How much gas is in the tank?
about 4 gallons but I will get some more to put in there (it's a BRAND NEW out of the box tank and fuelpump/sending unit assembly)

Originally Posted by Steve83
Is the fuel filter blocked? Is a fuel line kinked?
New filter as well, the root problem is that there is no power getting to the pump/pumps

I had an epiphany while at church this evening and thought I might let it out here.....I was noticing in the fuse panel that there was a fuse (that I believe my brother in law, whose not very mechanical by all accounts, inBETWEEN where I think two different fuses are supposed to GO in other words , one blade of the fuse is in one fuse location and the other blade of the fuse is in the next fuse location.....Those locations aren't filled, meaning they are supplied with power BUT the other half of the fuse location is empty, I ASSume for an option my truck does NOT have.

the locations I am talking about are labeled AUX fuel solenoid 10Amp (for truck with 2 tanks????? :shrug and then the one above it is labeled 25Amp T/G (IP SW) 20 Amp C/B Pwr WDO

Originally Posted by Steve83
That's definitely some freaky wiring, but start with the basics: find all the grounds in the kick panels & the engine bay; remove, clean, & tighten them. Most of them use a distinct green screw/bolt, so they should be easy to spot. There may be a couple in each kick panel, and probably 3-5 under the hood. One that's known to be a problem on '87-91 trucks is on the back of the core support near the battery, but closer to the radiator. It can rust completely off due to vapors from the battery.
I'll check the grounds, the truck was running fine until the fuel pump locked up and we started trying to figure out what the problem was (that's when I think the fuse got stuck in there (I hadn't messed with the fuse panel at all before) but I am leaning to the computer or the fuel pump relay (where is this????? and is it green or brown? I know the EEC relay is one color and the fuel pump is the other, just can't remember which is which..

Originally Posted by Steve83
Then check the battery terminals the same way.
The terminals and wiring are brand new, put them on (pre-assembled ones) for both power AND ground, grounded back to factory location on the block



let me know what you think...

Thanks.

Brad
 
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by NXTTIME
I know the EEC relay is one color and the fuel pump is the other, just can't remember which is which.
...
let me know what you think.
I think you read my whole post, EXCEPT the part about the relay modification.

Can you hear either relay click when you cycle the key to RUN? I doubt the crossed fuse is doing anything, but remove it just to be sure. Is the inertia switch ON (depressed)? Is it passing power? Did you find all the grounds?

4 gal may not be enough for the pump to pick anything up, depending on how the truck is tilted. Put 5 more in.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve83
I think you read my whole post, EXCEPT the part about the relay modification.

Can you hear either relay click when you cycle the key to RUN?
Haven't been able to tell with the relay as I've been running SOLO on this thus far. The fuel pump relay is green????

I have to run to the parts store today so I will check on the relay and see what I can find Fuse has been removed from it's "1/2 a$$ed installation".

Originally Posted by Steve83
Is the inertia switch ON (depressed)? Is it passing power?
switch is depressed and no power is present at the switch

Originally Posted by Steve83
Did you find all the grounds?
haven't gotten to that point yet but I will

Originally Posted by Steve83
4 gal may not be enough for the pump to pick anything up, depending on how the truck is tilted. Put 5 more in.
will get more gas as well, although it's fairly level
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by NXTTIME
The fuel pump relay is green????
IDK All I remember is that they're both junk, and they're GONE from any truck I work on. The captions of those pics have everything you need to know to ID them, though.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 05:34 PM
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Got it running yesterday (first day with no rain for probably the last 3 weeks!!!!) At any rate, I printed out a wiring diagram and did some wire tracing. At the fuel pump relay there was power, but it wasn't going to the pumps, checked the relay it was good, grounded the relay with a jumper wire and the pumps fired up!!!!! AH HAAAAAAAAA, bad ground somewhere, traced it all the way back from the EEC to the battery, it ended up being a bad connection in the ground for the EEC in a connector right there at the battery, so I just cut it out and spliced it back, whhhhhaaaaaaallllllaaa, one running 85 F150.....thanks to all for the help on here.


Brad
 
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