Ive checked the fuel reset switch and its not tripped. Both fuel pumps are working and has a new fuel filter. There is gas getting to the pressure valve at the fuel rail. There is gas at the fuel regulator but not sure if its getting to the injectors, there is power at the injectors though. If i prime the engine it fires right up and then dies after prime runs out. Also my fuel guage says almost half full and i know this is not true because i only put in 6 gallons. When i listen to the fuel pump in the tank it sound like it is gurgeling or an air sucking sound. Outside of what ive descibed to you im lost for anymore ideas can you figure it out.

 

How much pressure is there at the fuel rail? How many tanks does it have? The gauge isn't calibrated, so 6 gal is close enough to 1/2 for that to be a normal reading. Was the tank dry? For how long? Did you clean it before putting those 6 gal in?

 

I do not have a guage to test fuel rail, and when i do what is a normal reading for the rail pressure. The truck has been sitting for 3 years and yes the tank was cleaned because of the new fuel pump i installed in the tank. It had 2 tanks but due to the crash the 2nd tank was never installed. If i switch to the 2nd tank the gauge needel pegs to full. I removed the valve from the fuel rail today and stuck a hose on it to how fast it would fill a coffee can and it was filling rapidly, if this means anything i dont know.

 

Put a noid light on an injector and see if the injectors are firing.
You can rent a noid light from an auto parts store and get your money back when you take it back.

 

The only test for fuel pressure is with a gauge - not a coffee can. Sears sells a decent one, but you can probably rent/borrow one from a parts store.

The tank switching valve/dual-function-reservoir is an odd beast, so it could be a BIG part of your problem. Click my black Bronco in my sig & look thru the '84-89 Fuel Reservoir album. You can bypass it temporarily for diagnosis with rubber fuel line rated for EFI 10~50psi.

Injectors can gum up if abandoned with gas in the rail. Each one has a Red wire & another. Half of them (mixed - not all together) are wired as one 'bank', and the others as the 2nd bank so each group opens in unison. Turn the key to RUN, pierce the 'other' wire at any injector (NOT the Red) and ground it momentarily. Do you hear half the injectors clicking open & then closed? If not, repeat the test, holding that wire grounded slightly longer each time, but never more than 3 sec continuously. The idea is to warm up the injectors & melt the gum inside them.

Once you get most of one bank clicking regularly, cycle the key ONCE to build up pressure, ground it one last time so the pressure blows some of the gum out, & then repeat the whole procedure for the other bank of injectors. Remove the pierce probe & try to start the engine.

I had to do this on mine when I got it out of the junkyard ~12 years ago, and it has been running perfectly ever since.

 

I will have to try this tomorrow and again you said i will here the clicking sound. What is it doing when it's clicking, opening the injector???? Just for my own do's and dont's what happens when you hold the wire on for more than 3 sec. I would like to know so if asked i can explain why not to do this for more than 3 sec.

 

When you had this problem on yours did it not want to start at all.

 

Today i checked all injectors with jumper wire as you suggested except i checked all six because i could not tell if any of the other injectores were working by using my ear. Are there 2 fuel relay switches on the 89 f-150. I found 1 wire corroded real bad to the point with a couple of wiggels it broke. Fixed this problem and checked and still it wont start. While checking for anymore clicking relayes i found another 1 under my washer reservoir and inspected it and also i found a badly corroded terminal cut it out and replaced it and still nothing. Im still hesitating on checking fuel pressure becuase these pumps are both only 3 years old. My feelings are the pumps are still good its done nothing but sit.

 

Yes, the clicks (if they happen) when the wire is grounded would be the injectors opening & closing. They're not designed for continuous operation, so more than a few seconds on could overheat/damage them. Correct - mine wouldn't fire at all since no gas was going in. There's 1 fuel pump relay, 1 EEC PWR relay, & plenty of others depending on options. I highly recommend you cut off the FP & EEC PWR relays as described in this caption & then NEXT few.



Checking the pressure can't hurt & it'll tell us quickly if we're on the right track.

 

Doesn't the fuel pressure regulator create the pressure in the fuel rail which in return would force the injectors open for proper operation? If not working properly it would feed all the gas back through the return line. This is where a fuel pressure test would be good like you said to eliminate weak fuel pumps. The fuel pressur regulator would be the last thing a can think of. My distributor is activating my fuel pumps like it should. Both relays are not spurotic at all with there clicks. The green relay switch is working but the brown one stopped working today. What does this relay opperate?

 

What does eec stand for and what does it operate?

 

No, the fuel pressure regulator regulates the fuel pressure in the rail. The pump creates the pressure.No, that's how older mechanical injectors work - not EFI. These are solenoid valves; they open when energized.No, that's not a realistic failure mode for a FPR. Most commonly, its diaphragm ruptures, dumping gas thru the vacuum line into the intake, causing a rich condition.

Chop them BOTH off - install the newer style.I've never bothered to memorize which is which. Trash it & put a good one on.Automotive Terms & AbbreviationsThe powertrain.

 

The Green relay can not work without the brown one working. The brown one supplies the power for the green ones coil.
The brown relay supplies power to the red wire that powers the green fuel pump relays coil, all of the injectors, EEC Computer and other solenoids. The brown relay is also know as the EEC Power Relay.

 

Do all injectors have a filter at each end of the injector inlet and if they do has anyone encounter a clogged one yet. If these are clogged would it cause the engine to not start, i ask because this truck has been sitting. The gentalmen i bought the truck from had been rear-ended and could never get the truck started again after the crash. Any ideas on what might be causing this.

 

remove the passenger side kick panel and see if the inertia switch was tripped. if so then push the button on top and try to start it.