I put in the EGR delete kit from Ford Fuel Injection and it didn't do a thing. CEL is still on. Now what? Could the O2 sensor be the problem without it throwing a code?

 

I don't know what a EGR delete kit is but..... I have a 93 F 150 4x4 with the 5.0 and I had the same problem about 5 years ago with the EGR system that you've described. I did the whole thing that you did. I put in two different EGR valves from auto parts stores that didn't fix the problem. I finally went to a local Ford dealership and talked to the service manager and he told me that my problem was the EGR valves I was buying. He said that there are 9 different EGR valves for that truck based what emission set up is in the truck. He said I need to buy a factory EGR valve. He told me I needed to get the number of the emission set up for my truck its posted on the tag on the inside of the drivers side door. I went out got the number he told me to get. Went to the parts department at the dealership and bought the factory EGR valve. Big BIG difference in price from the auto parts store EGR valve BUT....... It worked. I haven't had the problem since. Might want to give that a try. If I remember correctly the factory valve cost me about $140.00 But it worked. Hope that helps.

 

EGR valves and IACs should only be bought from Ford. Off brands aren't worth a crap.

 

i need help with the an issue pretty ,much the same as you, i have a 95 ford f.150 302efi and on colder days i will start it and it will go really high idle then die then i restart it and the it will idle fine but a lil choppy the it goes into chop idle just barley staying goin then it will pick back up, also when driving when acceleratin it bogs out and the makes a popin noise under hood like its lacking fuel and back firing. i replaced the maf also i cleaned throtle body and check distributer for the firing and i got a new air box sensor and new air filter also cleaned the iab and i run injector cleaner threw it everytime i fill up and it doesnt seem to do anything diffrent. i was thinking that it was the injectors.also it just sucks gas big time. can somebody please help me

 

p u l l c o d e s

 

___I "had" the same problem with my 88...and........To begin with, I was pulling onto a very busy street, so I hammered it and damned near got T-boned. It bucked 3 or 4 times and got me to the center turn lane and then would barely run. I pressed the gas for RPM and rode the brake to a parking lot. I knew I had a problem, but the way it started was puzzling. It died when I stopped. It started and ran less 3 or 4 times. I had it towed home.
___Being old, bald, broke and retired with another vehicle, I took my time often for about 6 months. Countless hours on the computer and manuals doing test after test and always coming up blank. I did some R&R with a few parts that didn't come up to par, replacing the FPR, TPS, and thing on the MAP sensor and after so many tests as the Ford manual suggested replaced the puter w/a rebuilt. It started and ran...for awhile...I didn't say drove, ugh, ugh. Still stumped I began doing some of the tests over again.
___BUT, THIS TIME, when checking the HP fuel pump by grounding DLC, diagnostic link connector fuel pump connector, which is the separate connector beside the DLC. Note: these DLC's are located on my 88 just behind the air filter box and under the long PVC pipe from the box to the left valve cover. The procedure is to ground, Key ON ENGINE Off the separate or single Fuel Pump connector. This time though, I didn't have a long wire so I took my V/O meter wires and used it to ground to battt Neg terminal but I set it at 50V DC. When I grounded the connector, the HP pump ran continuously. It seemed to be about 10V and I wondered anout proper Voltage. I looked in the book, couldn't find it. Minutes later, I checked the pump again and it appeared about 2-3V, so one more time and the pump didn't run at all, but the volts indicated zero.
___Okay, hot wired the pump, and myself, it ran like hell, but I just quivered. So What??? The little red button above the brake pedal...Okay! So What??? Ahh, he HPFP relay; Where? The book says the relay box on the driver fender wall...not on my 88. It turned out, no box, just two boxy things at the ends of pigtails, Hmmp! Picked up one to check and it was very warm, I pulled it open and the coils were burnt brown and smelly. $16.22 at Advance Auto Parts and it ran like hell from then on...read on.
___But, 5 days ago stopped running again. Still bald, older now, still broke and retired, I'm workin on it. The pump won't pump continuous, as I checked the ground. Under the truck again, but smarter. I hot wired the pump first this time and remembered not me too. The pump ran, but didn't seem too loud or fast...my ears were 10" away. Hmm? Just might be the pump. I opened the Fuel Pump relay and it had a slight burned smell but checked out okay. I thought maybe a bad wire connection or ground somewhere, but i'd used a 10ga wire from the batt to jump it. BUT< NOW I JUST thought I didn't ground the pump to the Batt. I'll go do that right now...be right back. Better find a sweat shirt, it's cold 4:30 and 66, t'was 82 yesterday. Don't ya jus luuv Texas? Oh, you're not in Texas???
___Okay now, it's 30 minutes later. Maybe I was dreamin because it sounded loud enough and strong with no odd noise. When I turn the key now, there is no HP fuel pump pressuring up for a few seconds. I also saw that when I grounded the FP test lead the point contact of the FP relay worked but neither tank or HP pump started.
___I read that if a sensor is not operating properly and sending a wrong or poor signal to the computer that the computer will remember how it had been operating before the bad sensor and adjusts every component to it's proper operation. I sorta wonder tho, 2,500 times per minute for months...does it get tired and quit or break??????
___For now, I'll take the night off and start again tomorrow. Griz
P.S. I enjoy constructive criticism and help, even if I'm wrong or look foolish...I think that's how I made it to "old, Grizly, and bald."