Pre-1997 Models

1986 F150 Trans Code 'T'. Which tranny is it?

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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 06:29 PM
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From: Murphy, TX
1986 F150 Trans Code 'T'. Which tranny is it?

It's an overdrive automatic (it has both 'OD' and 'D' on the selection switch), so which one is it:

1. C-5 Automatic
2. C-6 Automatic
3. Automatic Overdrive

What I need to know is what the 'T' code on the inside of the door sticker means.

thanks.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 06:57 PM
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From: whaleyville, MD
that code came up as the ranger A4LD for me. how many bolts are on the trans pan?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 07:41 PM
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"T" is an AOD
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 09:19 PM
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From: Murphy, TX
Originally Posted by StrangeRanger
"T" is an AOD
Thanks StrangeRanger. Maybe you can answer another question. I replaced all the ball joints in the front-end and had the truck aligned. There's some steering slop in the wheel. Maybe an inch or 2. I was thinking about adjusting (tightening) the power steering gear sector shaft to take up some of the slack.

According to the Haynes manual I need to:
24. Remove the pitman arm and remove the horn pad to gain access to the steering wheel retining nut.
25. Place the fluid return line in a container.
26. Turn the shaft back 45-degrees from the left stop and attach a torque wrench to the nut.
27. Rotate the steering gear about 1/8 turn and then move it back across the center position several times. Loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the adjuster screw until the specified torque reading is reached when the steering gear is rotated throught the over-center postion.
28. Hold the screw and tighten the nut.
29. Reinstall the pitman arm etc....

Do I really need to go through all of this to tighten up the steering gear box?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 09:24 PM
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From: whaleyville, MD
on my 93 all you do is break the jam nut on top loose and hold it still and use a screwdriver to adjust the shaft and then tighten the jam nut. i dont know if yours is different or not.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Matts ford
on my 93 all you do is break the jam nut on top loose and hold it still and use a screwdriver to adjust the shaft and then tighten the jam nut. i dont know if yours is different or not.
That's exactly what I was thinking. On my personal vehicle, I only used the Ford Shop Manuals, but this is my brother's truck and I haven't used a Haynes or Chiltons manual in a decade. However, given that I haven't done this before is there a rule or a 'feel' to how much to adjust the shaft?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 09:31 PM
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From: Murphy, TX
Originally Posted by Matts ford
on my 93 all you do is break the jam nut on top loose and hold it still and use a screwdriver to adjust the shaft and then tighten the jam nut. i dont know if yours is different or not.
Also, do you know what wears out in the steering box that it would need adjusting?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 09:37 PM
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From: Murphy, TX
Originally Posted by Matts ford
that code came up as the ranger A4LD for me. how many bolts are on the trans pan?

Thanks Matts Ford!. I don't know how many bolts are on the trans pan, but I can certainly go look if it helps...So I'm assuming that this AOD is a 3 speed with a 4th overdrive. Correct? Also, the trans stick recommends DEXRON II. Should I go with this fluid when I drop the pan or is there an 'upgraded' recomendation?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 09:44 PM
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From: whaleyville, MD
Originally Posted by kjohnson1
That's exactly what I was thinking. On my personal vehicle, I only used the Ford Shop Manuals, but this is my brother's truck and I haven't used a Haynes or Chiltons manual in a decade. However, given that I haven't done this before is there a rule or a 'feel' to how much to adjust the shaft?
i was always told to tighten it about 1/8-1/4 turn and then feel how loose or tight it is.

my chiltons manual says to remove all that stuff too. i guess its so its not misdiagnosed as like a tie rod or something maybe. and to measure the torque required to turn the wheel. i think it goes through the same stuff as your haynes manual.

and i think the teeth on the sector gear is what wears out.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 09:51 PM
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From: whaleyville, MD
Originally Posted by kjohnson1
Thanks Matts Ford!. I don't know how many bolts are on the trans pan, but I can certainly go look if it helps...So I'm assuming that this AOD is a 3 speed with a 4th overdrive. Correct? Also, the trans stick recommends DEXRON II. Should I go with this fluid when I drop the pan or is there an 'upgraded' recomendation?
on another ford f150 forum(googled it) it said that the trans code T was the ranger a4ld which didnt sound right so i had to ask. its most likely the aod. i'm pretty sure that was the only o/d trans for that year. and yes 3spd then 4th is overdrive. and you can use the dexron II. ford has mercon v which is there newer fluid. thats what they told me to put in my 4r70w trans
 
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 07:50 AM
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Dexron II was replaced by Dexron III which currently has been replaced by Mercon V (which is a synthetic and expensive). Last time I needed some, I went to Advance and got the Advance brand ATF fluid in the blue gallon jug. Just read the back and make sure that is recommended for Dexron III applications and you're fine.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Matts ford
on my 93 all you do is break the jam nut on top loose and hold it still and use a screwdriver to adjust the shaft and then tighten the jam nut. i dont know if yours is different or not.
On a 93 you adjust it the same way that kjohnson1 quoted from his Haynes manual.
If you do it the way you said the steering can lock and cause you to lose control of the truck. No way you are to do it like you said and that is not what that adjustment is for. It is a gear total meshload adjustment.

The following is from the 1993 Ford Shop Manual:

Adjust total on center load to eliminate excessive lash between the sector and rack teeth as follows. See meshload specifications below for checking and setting values. This is the only adjustment required.

1. Disconnect the pitman arm from the sector shaft using Pitman Arm Puller T64P-3590-F.

2. Disconnect the fluid return line at the reservoir and cap the reservoir return line pipe.

3. Place the end of the return line in a clean container and turn the steering wheel from stop-to-stop several times to discharge the fluid from the gear. Discard the fluid.

4. Turn the steering wheel to 45 degrees from the right stop.

5. Attach an inch-pound torque wrench to the steering wheel nut and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft slowly approximately one-eighth turn toward center from the 45 degree position.

Set torque measured rocking across center to a value 10-14 in-lb greater than that measured 45ø from the right stop.

6. Turn the steering gear back to center and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft back and forth across the center position (± 90°). Refer to the following chart for checking and resetting specifications. If reset is required, loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the sector shaft adjuster screw until the reading is the specified value greater than the torque at 45 degrees from the stop. Hold the sector shaft screw in place, and tighten the locknut.

7. Re-check torque readings and replace the pitman arm and steering wheel hub cover.

8. Connect the fluid return line to the reservoir and fill the reservoir to specifications listed in «Section 11-00». Adjust belt tension, if necessary.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 08:06 PM
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From: Easton, Kansas
Originally Posted by bigbronc
Dexron II was replaced by Dexron III which currently has been replaced by Mercon V (which is a synthetic and expensive). Last time I needed some, I went to Advance and got the Advance brand ATF fluid in the blue gallon jug. Just read the back and make sure that is recommended for Dexron III applications and you're fine.
Image of chart:


/
 
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