Removing a Radius Arm Nut
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 218
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From: Louisville, KY USA
Removing a Radius Arm Nut
I tugged, pushed, pulled, prodded and yelled.. Even coined a few new words but the nut would not budge. I am trying to replace the radius are bushing's and I can not remove the rear nut. I came close to bending the arm and quit. What does it take to remove it? I heated it with a propane torch, quenched it with WD40 and started all over again. NO LUCK!!! HELP!!!!
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Justin Grant
http://www.alexander-grant.com
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Justin Grant
http://www.alexander-grant.com
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Edmonds, Wa
I removed mine to install a lift kit and from what I remember I have to use a 1" drive socket (I just happened to have one)with a 20" flex bar and a 36" piece of pipe. All the nuts (the two in the front and the one in the back were very tough. I think they are installed with the lock tight that's not supposed to come off. When I reinstalled I torqued it down to what was specified, but when I back it back out it came out much either than the first time. Leading me to believe some kind of lock tight is used. Get the biggest pipe you can find and go for it. Oh make sure you are turning the correct way. Remember you are upside down and it’s reversed.
Good luck
Thomas
Good luck
Thomas
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 218
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From: Louisville, KY USA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Thomas12:
I removed mine to install a lift kit and from what I remember I have to use a 1" drive socket (I just happened to have one)with a 20" flex bar and a 36" piece of pipe. All the nuts (the two in the front and the one in the back were very tough. I think they are installed with the lock tight that's not supposed to come off. When I reinstalled I torqued it down to what was specified, but when I back it back out it came out much either than the first time. Leading me to believe some kind of lock tight is used. Get the biggest pipe you can find and go for it. Oh make sure you are turning the correct way. Remember you are upside down and it’s reversed.
Good luck
Thomas</font>
I removed mine to install a lift kit and from what I remember I have to use a 1" drive socket (I just happened to have one)with a 20" flex bar and a 36" piece of pipe. All the nuts (the two in the front and the one in the back were very tough. I think they are installed with the lock tight that's not supposed to come off. When I reinstalled I torqued it down to what was specified, but when I back it back out it came out much either than the first time. Leading me to believe some kind of lock tight is used. Get the biggest pipe you can find and go for it. Oh make sure you are turning the correct way. Remember you are upside down and it’s reversed.
Good luck
Thomas</font>
Thanks for the reply... If I am looking at the nut face on... I was turning it to the left, or laying on the ground (Passenger side bushing) next to the truck, I was trying to pull the bar up moving the nut to the left (drivers side). The nut is 1 1/16", I used a 36" cheater bar and all I did was come close to bending the radius arm. I can bench-press 420 pounds, I know this nut is on with more torque than that.... At one point I lifted the truck off the jackstands by 1/2" .......
I try again tonight!
Thanks again!
Justin
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,623
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From: Lockport, NY USA
On my 1992 i had to heat it up to cherry 3 times with an oxy-acetlyne torch and then it came off with a monkey wrench and a 4' pipe (and even then i had my whole body weight on it).
-Jon
-Jon