P.S. Forgot to add on these on prior question: I recently installed a K&N FIPK, Superchip, and Dynomax superturbo cat-back exhaust system to my 95 Eddie Bauer 5.8L, E4OD auto ext. cab. Have definately noticed performance improvement but seems that engine might be running hotter, once quite a bit hotter. Is that a normal aftereffect to these upgrades?
Anyone know how to change the fuel filter on this thing? I found the filter, just under the drivers seat area but seems nearly impossible to get it removed.
Also, getting ready to install new shocks before I go elk hunting. Want something heavy duty to absorb 4X4 bumps but still roadworthy so I'm not getting my fillings jolted out. Any suggestions?
And while on fourwheeling, will I have any problems with dirt/water getting in the FIPK filter since it is somewhat exposed and not covered like stock filter was?
Sorry for all the questions but it's been quite a while since I've posted anything and all these chores have piled up on me and need doing in the next few weeks.
Thanks again,
Machboss

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1995 F-150, Eddie Bauer package, Black/Gold, 5.8 liter 351, high altitude package, elect. 4-spd auto.trans., engine block heater, 40/20/40 bench seat, 265/75RX15XL Goodyear All-Terrain tiresw/forged alum. wheels, 3.55 limited slip axle, short bed (7'), trailer tow package, off road package, full skid plates, remote keyless, handling package, full instrumentation incl. tach., special ordered manual lock out hubs, cruise/full power, heavy duty rear suspension, chrome rear step bumper,
34.7 dual fuel tanks, duraliner, custom cut seat covers,bug shield, K&N FIPK,Superchip,Dynomax catback system. Has a matching black upper end Guidon topper.

 

I only can help on the filter. Buy the metal disconnect tool for it at a parts store, <$15. Looks like an "X" with a rivet in the middle. Has a different tubing size on each end. Clamp the two end parts of the tool over the tubing on the filter, push into hose fitting good, then hose should pull off with the tool.
There are gripping metal fingers inside the hose fitting that lock onto a ridge on the filter tubing. An internal O-ring provides the seal. After disconnecting both lines, you may find it easier to unbolt the bracket from the frame rail with the filter on it. That way you can wrestle the old filter out, and new one in, in a better working position.
I always wipe off the tubing real good, before using the tool, to avoid shoving any dirt or grit into the O-ring in the hose fitting. Haven't had one leak yet when put back together (knock on wood!).

 

Good God! What a hassle! Why did Ford make such a commonly replaced item such a pain in the *** to get out? How long does all this take to do once you have the tool?

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1995 F-150 Eddie Bauer
Black/Gold
5.8 liter,
high altitude package
elect. 4-spd auto.trans.
Superchip
K&N FIPK (does NOT have mass air flow sensor)
Dynomax Superturbo cat-back exhaust (wish I'd gotten the Flowmasters instead like my 69 Mach I 428CJ has)
265/75RX15XL Goodyear All-Terrain tiresw/forged alum. wheels
3.55 limited slip axle short bed (7')
trailer tow package, off road package, full skid plates, handling package, heavy duty rear suspension
full instrumentation
special ordered manual lock out hubs,
chrome rear step bumper,
34.7 gall. dual fuel tanks,
duraliner
custom cut seat covers,
Black Guidon topper
33,000 miles

 

Actually, the hardest part (and I wouldn't rate any of it as hard), is popping the old filter out of the bracket. The whole job takes me about 15 minutes, if I'm not talking to anybody. I have no complaints with it, only change them every 30,000 miles.
About the fittings, they are designed to hold up under full possible electric fuel pump pressure, such as pumping against a faulty stopped-up Fuel Pressure Regulator, without leaking or blowing apart and spraying gas.
Access to the filter is easy, no jackstands required.
One more thing... either change the filter after the truck has sat for a few hours so pressure in the system is down.
Or bleed the pressure down using the Schraeder Valve type Test Port on the Fuel Rail. If doing that, use a hose with the depressor on the end (NOT a screwdriver!), to avoid spraying fuel all over a hot engine.
A good Fuel Pressure Gauge has a bleed valve, but could use an old R-12 Freon can-tapper hose aimed into a soup can instead.