I have a 95 F150 4.9 The heater won't warm up and the **** is tight.Is this a cheap easy fix?

 

Is just your **** frozen?

 

STDRILLER, Cheap fix? Guess it depends on what is broke(haha). Seriously could be lots of things, Best advice I can recommend is to pick up a "off the shelf" service manual. For about $20.00 it can steer you in the right direction. Just don't believe everything they say....use common sense. Most of the OTS manuals I have seen, do a pretty good job of describing the heater controls.

Good Luck,
-----nailer----

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ON ORDER: 2000 F250 SD SC XLT V-10 SB With all the goodies! (Due Mid-April)

CURRENT: 1993 F150 SC XLT 5.0L V-8 with 165,000 miles, (a new x-mission), and lots of great memories!

 

Thanks for the help!I'm in CA so I dont think its a frozen ****.I have a cyber repair manual and when I looked up the problem in the disk I found it was specific about the exact symptom I discribed.But when I tried to bring up the cause I got an invitation to buy the "service bullitins" for an additional $10.I would do it but they allready got my cash once.It may be worth 10 more bucks if the info is plentiful

 

I didn't mean to imply that your **** was frozen in the low temperature sense of the word, but to ask if it was "frozen" like it's stuck in position.

 

DOH!!! Thanks FM.It seems to move,its just tight near the 'heat' end and I dont get any warm air.Ford Motor Co released a service bullitten about the problem so it must be common.I just dont know if it will show in a service manual.I may just spend the $10 and I can get all the service bullitens that have been released for my truck

 

For STDRILLER:

I just finished replacing a heater core on my '92 (easy job, BTW) and may have seen the cause of your 'tight ****.' The **** pulls/pushes a cable that actuates the vacuum to move the heat/cold mix door. The cable is fixed to a bracket above the heater core access panel, behind the glove box. Remove the glove box, and you will see a funny white cylinder with a red cylinder inside it, and the cable goes through this, left-to-right.

When I did my core repl, I removed the white 'cylinder' (the retainer for the cable) to ease removal of the core cover. The red inner 'cylinder' (ferrule) is the cable stop, and is held into the white retainer by a 'ratchet' mechanism. Pulling a tab on the top of the white retainer releases the red ferrule, allowing it to move left-to-right, thereby changing the amount of cable travel you have to the heater door mech. When I put the works back together, I had to play with the position of the red ferrule in order to make the heater door mech work properly - too far one way and it wouldn't open, the other way it wouldn't close.

Just another thing to check.




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Tom Kenney
tomk@bearcomp.com
tom@fluxtech.com