Which Camshaft?
Ouch! I had to pull my dad's trailer with some equipment on it, I think about the trailer weighed about 5k or so?, out to our farm, and it really drags going up hills! 4:10 gears will take care of that!
As you know, I also planning for a build, I haven't decided between a 351 and building the 302 yet...300hp out of the 302 itself, is practically impossible, but with sufficient add-ons I could get close to 300hp...
Anyway, back to your question, this is probably gonna be your kicker...I stated a comment to Chris (PKRWUD) awile back about appropriate cams for my 302.
I am not sure this is an answer to your question, but....
Here's what he says, hope you don't mind Chris!
Another thing: StrangeRider had a set of ft-40 heads off of his mustang, he might be able to help you, if your interested...FYI, the 351W in the 93-95 lightnings had GT40 Heads....
Of course your choice is soley up to you!
[This message has been edited by Pastmaster (edited 02-05-2000).]
As you know, I also planning for a build, I haven't decided between a 351 and building the 302 yet...300hp out of the 302 itself, is practically impossible, but with sufficient add-ons I could get close to 300hp...
Anyway, back to your question, this is probably gonna be your kicker...I stated a comment to Chris (PKRWUD) awile back about appropriate cams for my 302.
I am not sure this is an answer to your question, but....
Here's what he says, hope you don't mind Chris!
The problem that usually acompanies changing a cam in an otherwise stock application is that it doesn't flow very well with the stock intake manifold/tb/injectors/heads. It's kind of a package deal. If you were to add 1.7 rockers, you would be retaining the same duration and lobe seperation angles, that already work well with the other stock components. The extra power is gained from the increased valve lift. 1.7 rockers only real purpose is to enhance a stock engines performance economically. If someone is building an engine, they can find a camshaft with any combnination of lift, duration, and LSA with standard 1.6 rockers. What I'm trying to say is that unless you are planning to spend alot more money buying alot more parts, your best bet is a set of 1.7 rockers.
Of course your choice is soley up to you!
[This message has been edited by Pastmaster (edited 02-05-2000).]
I am planning to order a rebuilt 351w for installation into my '91 truck. Question is, which camshaft would be the best choice for maximum pulling power (low-end torque and mid-range torque?)
Here is the spec list for the engine I plan to order:
Factory 351 Windsor block
Factory 351W cast crank (precision ground 10/10 and micro polished)
Factory rods with "ARP" rod bolts
TRW hypereutectic 10:1 pistons
Sealed Power rings
Crane 284 cam kit
Heavy duty Cloyes timing set
Clevite 77 bearings
High volume oil pump
Fel Pro gaskets
New head bolts
New World Products Windsor heads (stage I porting included)
New 2.02"stainless intake valves
New 1.60" stainless exhaust valves
Hard seats and guides for unleaded fuel
3/8" Screw in studs and guideplates
New springs, retainers and locks
New Comp Cams pushrods
Crane "Hi Intensity" roller rockers
New Ford harmonic balancer
New flexplate for auto trans (std trans extra)
Balanced, blueprinted and assembled
I think the Crane Cams 260H model is best for a truck application. Would Ford's stock unit be better? Suggestions?
Also, any other room for improvement here? I want this fellow to build me a truck engine--not just a mishmash of parts that are probably more suited to a drag racer. I want to be able to tell him, "Use this part instead of this one", etc...
Emissions legality a must.
Thanks,
Mike
Here is the spec list for the engine I plan to order:
Factory 351 Windsor block
Factory 351W cast crank (precision ground 10/10 and micro polished)
Factory rods with "ARP" rod bolts
TRW hypereutectic 10:1 pistons
Sealed Power rings
Crane 284 cam kit
Heavy duty Cloyes timing set
Clevite 77 bearings
High volume oil pump
Fel Pro gaskets
New head bolts
New World Products Windsor heads (stage I porting included)
New 2.02"stainless intake valves
New 1.60" stainless exhaust valves
Hard seats and guides for unleaded fuel
3/8" Screw in studs and guideplates
New springs, retainers and locks
New Comp Cams pushrods
Crane "Hi Intensity" roller rockers
New Ford harmonic balancer
New flexplate for auto trans (std trans extra)
Balanced, blueprinted and assembled
I think the Crane Cams 260H model is best for a truck application. Would Ford's stock unit be better? Suggestions?
Also, any other room for improvement here? I want this fellow to build me a truck engine--not just a mishmash of parts that are probably more suited to a drag racer. I want to be able to tell him, "Use this part instead of this one", etc...
Emissions legality a must.
Thanks,
Mike
I would be leery of putting in too mild a camshaft. Mild specs don't always mean good torque and mileage, sometimes it just means wimpy performance!
If that Crane cam is 260 degrees of total duration (not at 0.050", but total) that sounds a little too mild to me, unless you plan on adding those 1.7 rocker arms for more lift.
Something in the 270 - 280 degree range with stock rocker arms (usually intake & exhaust duration are pretty close to one another) would run a little stronger and still have good low end. I'm not recommending going too wild for your application, but a bigger displacement engine can tolerate a little more cam than a 302 or 289 because the extra cubes help provide the low end punch. Also, your high compression pistons will give a big gain in low end power. 10:1 seems pretty high for a street 351 on todays gas.
I've seen dyno charts where the hot cam produces more power everywhere than the mild one, even at low end. OK, more cam does equal more pollution and probably worse gas mileage, but it would be sad to put that much work in and have the engine be a dog.
The pollution & computer controls make the decision a lot more complicated.
Good luck!
[This message has been edited by dirt bike dave (edited 02-06-2000).]
[This message has been edited by dirt bike dave (edited 02-06-2000).]
If that Crane cam is 260 degrees of total duration (not at 0.050", but total) that sounds a little too mild to me, unless you plan on adding those 1.7 rocker arms for more lift.
Something in the 270 - 280 degree range with stock rocker arms (usually intake & exhaust duration are pretty close to one another) would run a little stronger and still have good low end. I'm not recommending going too wild for your application, but a bigger displacement engine can tolerate a little more cam than a 302 or 289 because the extra cubes help provide the low end punch. Also, your high compression pistons will give a big gain in low end power. 10:1 seems pretty high for a street 351 on todays gas.
I've seen dyno charts where the hot cam produces more power everywhere than the mild one, even at low end. OK, more cam does equal more pollution and probably worse gas mileage, but it would be sad to put that much work in and have the engine be a dog.
The pollution & computer controls make the decision a lot more complicated.
Good luck!
[This message has been edited by dirt bike dave (edited 02-06-2000).]
[This message has been edited by dirt bike dave (edited 02-06-2000).]
If you're willing to convert to a hydraulic roller, take a look at the Crane 2030.
Duration is 270/278. Gross lift is .533/.544 with 1.6 rockers. It pulls strong from 2000 to 5500 and is 50 state legal in the Mustang.
With GT-40 heads, throttle body and manifold and 24# meter and injectors it should make something on the order of 270 rear wheel horsepower (approx. 310 @ flywheel). Only problem is it's the 302 HO/351 firing sequence so you'd need a new computer. Since you're changing to mass air anyway, that shouldn't be a problem, just be sure you get the right kit.
Duration is 270/278. Gross lift is .533/.544 with 1.6 rockers. It pulls strong from 2000 to 5500 and is 50 state legal in the Mustang.
With GT-40 heads, throttle body and manifold and 24# meter and injectors it should make something on the order of 270 rear wheel horsepower (approx. 310 @ flywheel). Only problem is it's the 302 HO/351 firing sequence so you'd need a new computer. Since you're changing to mass air anyway, that shouldn't be a problem, just be sure you get the right kit.
Thanks for all the replies! Most interested in low-end.... i.e., 1000-2000 RPM, followed by mid-range torque for towing at normal cruise RPM. Looking at the replies, we can quickly get waaaay over my head with this stuff.. Camshafts are confusing enough!!
Hoping this engine guy will work with me a bit here--I'm leaving the knowledge up to him. Told him what I am looking for, we'll see what he can do...
-Mike
Hoping this engine guy will work with me a bit here--I'm leaving the knowledge up to him. Told him what I am looking for, we'll see what he can do...
-Mike
Camshafts are confusing, but this is the critical factor in how happy you are with the rebuild. It sounds like you really want that low end torque. If you don't care at all about over 3,000+ rpm performance, you can eliminate a lot of the options. You might also want to consider an RV style intake manifold for good low end power. If you modify your exhaust, don't go with 3" duals for your application!
As a general rule, at 0" lift (not 0.050") in a small block Ford, a cam with under 260 degrees duration is mild, 260-270 is a little more than stock, 270-280 is versatile and good for all around power, 280-290 is hot, 290-300 is very hot, 300-320 is road race and 320+ is drag race. Valve lift will be from 0.45" on the low end to 0.55+" on the high end.
I've only built a couple of them, so do additional research and don't take my word! Sounds like you would rather have a Powerstroke Diesel than an Indy car - see if anybody is building a 351w for motorhomes and find out what they like for a cam.
Anyways, the 351w is a great (& underappreciated) engine.
As a general rule, at 0" lift (not 0.050") in a small block Ford, a cam with under 260 degrees duration is mild, 260-270 is a little more than stock, 270-280 is versatile and good for all around power, 280-290 is hot, 290-300 is very hot, 300-320 is road race and 320+ is drag race. Valve lift will be from 0.45" on the low end to 0.55+" on the high end.
I've only built a couple of them, so do additional research and don't take my word! Sounds like you would rather have a Powerstroke Diesel than an Indy car - see if anybody is building a 351w for motorhomes and find out what they like for a cam.
Anyways, the 351w is a great (& underappreciated) engine.
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Well, basically what I'm looking for is this:
1. Must tow very well
2. Must kick chevy butt (would like 0-60 in the sub-7-second range.)
I got used to my Ranger--quick truck. I want a truck that will out-accelerate a 454ss but still handle the load... What I really need is to find someone who knows enough about engines to do a full-up build with my requirements in mind. I haven't found someone like that yet.
-Mike
1. Must tow very well
2. Must kick chevy butt (would like 0-60 in the sub-7-second range.)
I got used to my Ranger--quick truck. I want a truck that will out-accelerate a 454ss but still handle the load... What I really need is to find someone who knows enough about engines to do a full-up build with my requirements in mind. I haven't found someone like that yet.
-Mike


