surging 302 engine warm or cold
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 3
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From: ssm , ontario, canada
surging 302 engine warm or cold
I have an 89 F150 302, re-man engine in 98, displays no codes when read, the engine surges when the truck is idling warm or cold. Sometimes to the point of stalling. Also idles up when truck is put in gear (AOD). I have replaced plugs, wires. I also get a winy noise when stepping on the gas pedal now and again. I'm stumped & tired of payong techs to find nothing. PLEASE help me????
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,133
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From: Manhattan KS
Do the fuel injector and throttle cleaning procedure. Get your injectors cleaned with a high pressure cleaner, and clean the throttle with cleaner and a brush. It works wonders on early fuel injected 302s.
Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 61
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From: Cape Cod, Mass, USA
willyman,
Check for vacuum leak any where. Also since it is a reman engine, make sure vacuum lines are run correctly. Also you may want to check for bad EGR valve or EGR position sensor. My EGR position sensor was intermittent and had similar probs to you on my '93 302. Also found a cracked vacuum line.
Good luck
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ON ORDER: 2000 F250 SD SC XLT V-10 SB With all the goodies!
CURRENT: 1993 F150 SC XLT 5.0L V-8 with 160,000 miles and lots of great memories!
Check for vacuum leak any where. Also since it is a reman engine, make sure vacuum lines are run correctly. Also you may want to check for bad EGR valve or EGR position sensor. My EGR position sensor was intermittent and had similar probs to you on my '93 302. Also found a cracked vacuum line.
Good luck
------------------
ON ORDER: 2000 F250 SD SC XLT V-10 SB With all the goodies!
CURRENT: 1993 F150 SC XLT 5.0L V-8 with 160,000 miles and lots of great memories!
Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 33
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From: Loami IL
Have you checked the IAC (idle air control). This unit is located right by the butterflies on the plenum on the right side it looks like a small motor. It has two bolts hold them in I think size 9mm. Take off a clean really good with carb cleaner. Carbon will build up and well not let it close. This has been a problem on high mileage trucks and cars. Also I just change my o2 sensor and my mileage just took a leap about 2 miles a gallon more. Hope this helps.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 1,327
Likes: 2
From: OK
Check the TPS. Surging idle is a very common symptom of TPS alignment problem.
Neal
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1997 4x4 Expedition- 4.6L, true dual exhaust w/glass-packs, K&N air filter, SuperChip, airbox mods, Edelbrock shocks, 285/75R16 BFG ATs, Optima "T-Bone" wheels, and Clarion In-dash CD player. Just added Smitty Bilt push bars and nerf bars!!
2000 4x2 F150 XLT Reg. Cab LWB- 5.4L, Tow Pkg, 3.55LS, CD player,Remote Keyless Entry, Sliding back glass, Special Appearance Pkg.
http://members.visualcities.com/NoMo
Neal
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1997 4x4 Expedition- 4.6L, true dual exhaust w/glass-packs, K&N air filter, SuperChip, airbox mods, Edelbrock shocks, 285/75R16 BFG ATs, Optima "T-Bone" wheels, and Clarion In-dash CD player. Just added Smitty Bilt push bars and nerf bars!!
2000 4x2 F150 XLT Reg. Cab LWB- 5.4L, Tow Pkg, 3.55LS, CD player,Remote Keyless Entry, Sliding back glass, Special Appearance Pkg.
http://members.visualcities.com/NoMo
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Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 61
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From: Cape Cod, Mass, USA
Pastmaster,
On my '93 I was able to do a visual on the EGR valve. I hooked up a vacuum pump to the tit on the valve. Was able to see the diaphram operate. Also was able to test this during engine run. I hear on some models the diaphram is in a sealed chamber, on that version I guess you can only do an operation check. Found out the EGR position sensor was bad by the reading the codes. Forget the code I had (book outside in truck, and is 5 degrees outside), think it was a code 33. Pointed me to the EGR system. Tested valve as above. Removed the Sensor and did a resistance check across it. Since the sensor is really just a potentiometer with a plunger, and I had no resistance change with movement I swapped it out. Getting 4-6MPG better now, with lot less load pinging, and smoother run.
------------------
ON ORDER: 2000 F250 SD SC XLT V-10 SB With all the goodies!
CURRENT: 1993 F150 SC XLT 5.0L V-8 with 160,000 miles and lots of great memories!
On my '93 I was able to do a visual on the EGR valve. I hooked up a vacuum pump to the tit on the valve. Was able to see the diaphram operate. Also was able to test this during engine run. I hear on some models the diaphram is in a sealed chamber, on that version I guess you can only do an operation check. Found out the EGR position sensor was bad by the reading the codes. Forget the code I had (book outside in truck, and is 5 degrees outside), think it was a code 33. Pointed me to the EGR system. Tested valve as above. Removed the Sensor and did a resistance check across it. Since the sensor is really just a potentiometer with a plunger, and I had no resistance change with movement I swapped it out. Getting 4-6MPG better now, with lot less load pinging, and smoother run.
------------------
ON ORDER: 2000 F250 SD SC XLT V-10 SB With all the goodies!
CURRENT: 1993 F150 SC XLT 5.0L V-8 with 160,000 miles and lots of great memories!
Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 14
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From: Denton, TX USA
I had the same problem. Ford put out a technical advisory but didn't tell anybody. There is an upgrade kit to the idler air control unit that costs around $60.00 and fixes the problem immediately. The only reason I know about it is my mechanic dug it up and we tried every other thing we could think of to fix it. Hope this helps.
Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 61
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From: Cape Cod, Mass, USA
Pastmaster,
I think the EGR Position Sensor was around $60.00. Got it at a local parts store. They didn't have the EGR valve in stock, so I just went with the VPS. Did the trick. 20,000 miles or so...and no problems.
One note: The screws that hold the VPS onto the EGR valve were in tight and had some corrision on them. I ended up snapping one of them. Real pain to drill and tap into the top of the Valve to fix it. Soak the screws in penetrating fluid for at least a few hours. The EGR gets hot when run, so don't run engine while soaking.
Good luck,
----nailer----
[This message has been edited by nailer (edited 01-22-2000).]
I think the EGR Position Sensor was around $60.00. Got it at a local parts store. They didn't have the EGR valve in stock, so I just went with the VPS. Did the trick. 20,000 miles or so...and no problems.
One note: The screws that hold the VPS onto the EGR valve were in tight and had some corrision on them. I ended up snapping one of them. Real pain to drill and tap into the top of the Valve to fix it. Soak the screws in penetrating fluid for at least a few hours. The EGR gets hot when run, so don't run engine while soaking.
Good luck,
----nailer----
[This message has been edited by nailer (edited 01-22-2000).]
