Pre-1997 Models

Question response needed asap

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Old 05-03-2008, 06:51 PM
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Exclamation Question response needed asap

I have a 87' f150 and Ive given up on the problem it has. Ive tryed replacing stuff on it. Different modules on the intake but nothing has changed. Its got the 302 motor and what it does is it starts up fine. Runs good, idles good, good throttle response, but once it warms up, it starts to spit and sputter and then it shuts off and wont start back up till it cools back down. Its not over heating or anything. We thought it was the cats but took then off and it still does it. Not sure what else to try. Any input would be appreciated.
 
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Old 05-03-2008, 07:23 PM
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Can you get the codes? May be a crank or cam sensor......
 
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Old 05-03-2008, 07:49 PM
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all kinds of codes come up but its a obd I and the meter we have i dont know how to read
 
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Old 05-03-2008, 08:07 PM
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Without being able to pull codes, all you can do is throw parts at it and hope.

One more part to try: the ignition control module. The symptoms fit.
 
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Old 05-03-2008, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by StrangeRanger
Without being able to pull codes, all you can do is throw parts at it and hope.

One more part to try: the ignition control module. The symptoms fit.
Which is the most retarded thing you could do in this situation.

Either get the codes pulled or grab a paper clip and a pen and pad. A caveman could pull codes on these trucks it is so dang simple.
 
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Old 05-03-2008, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by StrangeRanger
One more part to try: the ignition control module. The symptoms fit.
Heat soak maybe? Definitely grab the paperclip.
 
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Old 05-05-2008, 12:44 PM
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The code readers aren't that hard, they do the same thing as the paperclip method. There will be X many flashes close together to indicate a number, a moderate pause, then more close flashes. The moderate pause separates the individual numbers of the code. If there is more than one code, there will be a long pause until it starts flashing out the next one.

Then there is a very long pause, and it starts flashing out previously stored codes that aren't tripping the light now. If you can count to 9, you can pull codes.

example:

****
(short pause)
*******
(longer pause)
*
(short pause)
***
Would indicate two codes, a 47 and 13.

What can be a little confusing if the CEL isn't on all the time is it may give a "111" code, a "system OK" first, before moving on to previously stored codes.
The code readers beep and flash so you can hear it in the cab, the paperclip method makes the CEL flash the exact same way.

Throwing parts at a problem is a waste of money and time. You don't go hunting by randomly shooting around a forest. A good diagnosis is what makes a smart mechanic.
 

Last edited by RaWarrior; 05-05-2008 at 12:47 PM.
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Old 05-05-2008, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by GTRider245
Which is the most retarded thing you could do in this situation.

Either get the codes pulled or grab a paper clip and a pen and pad. A caveman could pull codes on these trucks it is so dang simple.
First off its not my truck and I deal with OBD II setups so I dont know how to do it. Second I was just seeing if anyone has had this problem. And third the guy that does know how to pull the codes says he got alot of codes. So calm down. Ill have the codes tomorrow and post up. Calm down man, I know protocall and Im not a newb.
 
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Old 05-06-2008, 07:25 AM
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Who is not calm? I was just making the point that throwing parts at a truck without knowing what is wrong is stupid. It gets old and expensiv real quick. Especialy when codes are this easy to pull: http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
 
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Old 05-07-2008, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by f150silver05
First off its not my truck and I deal with OBD II setups so I dont know how to do it. Second I was just seeing if anyone has had this problem. And third the guy that does know how to pull the codes says he got alot of codes. So calm down. Ill have the codes tomorrow and post up. Calm down man, I know protocall and Im not a newb.
I can see your point, but I think people were just trying to save you or in this case your friend some money.

Off the top of my head I would think ignition module heat soak, or possibly some other electrical problem. But I wouldn't suggest anyone buy even a cheap part without looking into it further.
 



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