I replaced a broken ignition actuator and got the truck to start. However, when I shift the truck into gear, the engine dies. I have not put the steering wheel back on yet. Would this have anything to do with it? It is an 88 F350 with an automatic transmission.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

Sounds strange, but there could be a connection. Do you loose accessory power when the engine dies? (Radio, gauges etc) If you do not, the ignition switch may need adjusting and a small movement in the column when you shift could cause it to loose contact. Watch the details of what happens when you shift. Example, key moves in lock cylinder, gauges/signal lights don't work.

Another possibility is that something could be installed or aligned incorrectly inside the column and the shifter cause movement with the switch.

I am clueless about the steering wheel issue. Try putting it back on loosely and reconnecting the wires. Someone else may know more about that.

It could be coincidental and completely unrelated.

Good Luck finding the problem.

 

Another possibility is that the sensor on the shift arm of the tranny is bad and is somehow shorting out the ignition. Not likely, but odd things happen on old trucks. Just follow the shift cable to the tranny, and around the shift arm is a plastic doohickey with a couple wires that tells the ECU what gear the selector is in. Lots of problems can result if that sensor is bad, and you can test it with an ohmmeter and a helper running the shifter through the gears.

 

• Try adjusting the ignition switch which is mounted on the lower steering column, the actuator rod connects to this switch. Loosen the two nuts on the switch to allow the switch to slide, move the gear shift from left to right and then left, back to park. This centers the switch. Then tighten the nuts.
• The ignition switch could also be defective, there was a recall for defective ignition switches http://www.safetyforum.com/fordfires/.

 

I had the same problem with my truck. I replaced the lock and tumbler, acuator, even dropped the column and moved the relay at the end of the actuator rod up to keep it at idle when it started. My only problem after installing the new actuator arm (half horseshoe piece at the connected to the top of the actuator rod) was aligning the tumbler and the gear in the housing with the straight gear that connects to the actuator arm. I ended up getting the tumbler to align with the gear in the housing then pulling the tumbler back just short of dopping into the hole at the bottom of the housing. Then put the straight gear that attaches to the actuator arm on the largest triangle tooth (should be a gap in the teeth on the gear right in front of that then more regular gear teeth) then slid all of it back over the the column holding it together (I really needed a few extra hands) hooked the straight gear on the actuator arm and dropped the tumbler the rest of the way into the housing. If the gear in the housing it too far forward the key won't come out of the lock, if it is too far back it won't fire the ignition or keep it at an idle if the gear in the housing is worn you will feel it click in the run position while pushing it forward in which case it might fire the engine then the spring will push it back with any nudge on the column including shifting. I also had to clear the broken pieces of guide rod off the actuator arm from the inside the column (taking the whole column apart is a pain in the a**). The steering wheel being off never stopped me from being able to fire the engine or keep it at idle. Hope this helps.
Brian