Pre-1997 Models

302 engine

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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 06:09 PM
  #1  
awrobertson's Avatar
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From: Peoria, IL
302 engine

I have a '96 with the 302 engine in it. It just hit 60,000 miles and I haven't had to do anything besides replace the starter. With that, is there anything I can do to the engine to tune it up and make it run better? Don't have a whole lot of cash so i'm not looking to go with headers yet, but are there other options? any help or comments would be great.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 08:00 PM
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Plugs, wires, clean intake and throttle body, fuel filter. Is there a specific issue with the way it runs? Be sure there are no codes....
 
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 08:59 PM
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it runs fine. I am in school but i work construction during the summers and breaks so I use it for work and some towing for bobcats and materials... nothing too excessive. I want more power out of it eventually. But for now I just want the engine to be in as good as condition as possible
 
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 10:52 PM
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Doggone - that is unbelievably low mileage for a '96. The 302 is a solid, reliable, proven engine. For your vintage, it delivers a reasonable amount of performance.

Suggest to make sure it's performing up to spec - no computer codes thrown, check the things F151 recommended - especially the filters, and you should be good-to-go for a long, long time.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 05:25 PM
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Spark plugs and wires cap and rotor pcv valve and filter air filter breather filter check the timing fuel filter should be good to go
 
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 03:29 PM
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Nooby question

Wouldnt there be a check engine light if it were throwing codes?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 04:36 PM
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Assuming the 'check engine' lamp is good, then an occuring fault should light it up. A stored fault that has occured in the past but is no longer in a faulted condition will not.

I always pull codes first whenever there is an operating problem - has helped time and again with pointing in the right direction - what is wrong, as well as what is not wrong.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 01:49 PM
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Just my .02
My '95 302 has 180K and is still strong. I service as suggested above with the added element of changing oil(castrol high mi) every 2500 miles come rain or shine.
:santa:
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 04:31 PM
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Is there really any advantage to the oils labeled as "high mileage? I've been using them in my 351 with about 128k, though the motor ran perfectly fine when I bought it at about 120k. Top end was rebuilt at 100k. It still uses about 1 quart over 3000 miles, which seems pretty normal considering age and that it was used to tow a 40' RV quite often for most of it's life.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 05:34 PM
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302's are usually good for 250k miles if maintained by the book.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by B_Dub
Nooby question

Wouldnt there be a check engine light if it were throwing codes?
Not always.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 11:37 PM
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Wink

Yeah the EGR vavle in my 302 bit teh dust so i disconnected the vaccum line and the sensor. CEL is on all the time now I really dont care for that crap in my engine.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by RaWarrior
Is there really any advantage to the oils labeled as "high mileage?
I have no idea as to the technical validity of the High Milage type oil. I just use it and it seems to work very well.
I guess I'm one of those people, that if it ain't broke, dont fix it.
Regards,
Max
 
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RaWarrior
Is there really any advantage to the oils labeled as "high mileage? I've been using them in my 351 with about 128k, though the motor ran perfectly fine when I bought it at about 120k. Top end was rebuilt at 100k. It still uses about 1 quart over 3000 miles, which seems pretty normal considering age and that it was used to tow a 40' RV quite often for most of it's life.
What exactly do you mean by rebuilt top end? A rebuilt engine with 28K miles should be using NO oil.

For some cheap power gains, get yourself a MSD coil, cap and rotor and the Ford Racing 9MM wires and some cheap Autolites gapped to 0.055". Bump the timing to 13.5* and run with it.

Change all fluids and keep em clean. Change all filters.

The next step would be headers and a free flowing exhuast.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 02:44 AM
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From: magnolia texas
Hi
With 370k on a 1995.
Keep it clean so you can see any leak.
My story: a small (1970 standers) gasket leak ended up:
sensors replace, (3)
vave gasket replaced,
Harmomic balancer replaced,
cat replaced (BOTH)
IN the past year (took 1year to clear the problems).
Total cost about 3.5k, last year, did ac hoses also $350?

A good shop would have said what would have happen with the oil leak.
having seen the truck at a min of 3 times in the previous yr
I will never go back to them (It is a ford shop)
also:
every year I go to ford for a 30k checkup (do it all)
I DRIVE 30K YEAR
after 2 heater cores, 2 radiators, cooling system hoses 4 times.
Many years trying to resolve the cause of the problems with ford.
advice:
1)do not depend on anyone else,(they do not pay the bill).
2) Change the expendables, (oil,coolant, trans, ect).
coolant and transmission at a min of 30k, max coolant, 1yr "cheap"
trans max 30k, (trans -x works great, could not find 1 mo ago ?).

3) FIND A CAR MECH YOU CAN TRUST(""""""" MOST INPORTANT POINT """""""""")
4) FIND A CAR MECH.
5) FIND A CAR MECH.

GET THE POINT.

THE CAR MECH CAN COST OR SAVE YOU $1MILLION
IN YOUR LIFE TIME, MINE DIED 4 YEARS AGO.
NOW I HAVE PROBLEMS, IT TAKES TIME FOR PROBLEMS TO BUILD UP.
I do not know when an engine is "worn out".
1964 50k to 80k miles, rebuild, (blue smoke).

I am A 1943 baby, (keep things,)

My son could go throught an engine in 5k ( 1 set of tires)

I hope this helps

old100
 

Last edited by wrong100; Dec 21, 2007 at 03:09 AM.
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