No Caliper Clips on pre 5/95 1995 F150
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No Caliper Clips on pre 5/95 1995 F150 (Photos)
I see that just about everyone else has caliper sliding clips on their ford brake calipers. My truck does not. Just the anti-rattle pad holders. What's the deal? My truck was made in 9/94 and has rear ABS. Check it out for yourself! Think these rotors and calipers would be the reason to my braking issues? It feels like one is warped and it snags every rotation. Also truck vibrates when stopping, as if the caliper isn't pulsating smoothly.
Last edited by csonka; Mar 28, 2007 at 01:46 PM.
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From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
Originally Posted by csonka
My truck was made in 9/04...
You sure about that?
Click my signature link & look through the top half of the Brakes & Hubs album. You have the later "floating" calipers, and some **** rusty ones!
The capacitor is the radio interference filter. It keeps the buzz out of your AM stations.
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Great, I feel special, my calipers float!
Dealer tells me my rotors are going bad and are causing the vibrating. I say I need to replace both rotor and caliper. I'd also like to see about maybe just having my rotors lathed and replacing my calipers. They don't look too thin. Anyone agree?
And that is what the sticker on the door says. Manufacture Date : 9/94. Apparently they made some changes to the 95 series model midway through production. Mine was the first off the line before they changed things in 5/95. This is what I hear at least.
Dealer tells me my rotors are going bad and are causing the vibrating. I say I need to replace both rotor and caliper. I'd also like to see about maybe just having my rotors lathed and replacing my calipers. They don't look too thin. Anyone agree?
And that is what the sticker on the door says. Manufacture Date : 9/94. Apparently they made some changes to the 95 series model midway through production. Mine was the first off the line before they changed things in 5/95. This is what I hear at least.
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From: south Baja Mexico
if it is warped enough that you can feel it I doubt that they will turn out. but take them to a place that dose that and they will tell you if they can do it or not.
It looks like you have some real corrosion going on on that truck I think I would look for some other callipers.
Bruce
It looks like you have some real corrosion going on on that truck I think I would look for some other callipers.
Bruce
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I hate, with a passion, having to dissassemble the auto-hubs. I don't know why. I wish I just didn't have to touch it in order to get at the rotors. Anyways, I still waiting to go purchase everything and post results here. I really hope the braking vibrations is from a faulty caliper. I really miss driving it! And yea, I'll tell ya, this truck is has more corrosion that what I am comfortable with. In the next month I am getting a car and I am going to have the frame pickled and boxed. But that is another project.
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From: south Baja Mexico
Originally Posted by csonka
I hate, with a passion, having to dissassemble the auto-hubs. I don't know why. I wish I just didn't have to touch it in order to get at the rotors. Anyways, I still waiting to go purchase everything and post results here. I really hope the braking vibrations is from a faulty caliper. I really miss driving it! And yea, I'll tell ya, this truck is has more corrosion that what I am comfortable with. In the next month I am getting a car and I am going to have the frame pickled and boxed. But that is another project.
pickled and boxed?
Bruce
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From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
A bad caliper can't cause any vibration until it ruins a rotor, but one advantage of floating calipers is that they're FAR less likely to damage a rotor. Your rotors are ruined (from rust - not from the calipers), but your calipers are probably OK. I recommend MotorCraft rotors & pads.
If you do change your calipers, you'd better be prepared to change the hoses, too. They're just as rusty as the calipers, but they're MUCH thinner, so if you start pulling on them, they're liable to break. And when you go to change the hoses, you might find the hard lines on the frame are just as bad, so don't dive off into this job without seeing JUST how deep it's going to be.
If you do change your calipers, you'd better be prepared to change the hoses, too. They're just as rusty as the calipers, but they're MUCH thinner, so if you start pulling on them, they're liable to break. And when you go to change the hoses, you might find the hard lines on the frame are just as bad, so don't dive off into this job without seeing JUST how deep it's going to be.
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Originally Posted by Bruce R Leech
pickled and boxed?
Bruce
Bruce
Thanks everyone for the comments. Yeah the lines going to the brakes don't look all that great, so I am going to see about replacing some line and putting new brake fluid in there while I am at it. I know it will be quite some work, but I will feel better knowing there is less corrosive braking parts there, ultimately making me feel a bit safer on the road.
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Originally Posted by Steve83
Boxing an '82-96 frame isn't necessary or advisable, for many reasons. An '80-81 would only benefit slightly IF it has the special factory swiss-cheese. 
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Well I installed everything and it went well. The rotors weren't as bad as I remembered it to be, I just hate taking that hub apart and exposing the grease to the shop environment contaminants like dust and dirty fingers. I am going to try and have the rotors machined to spec and either sell or keep for backups. I got premium USA made rotors, calipers and mid-grade semi-metallic pads and brake fluid all for 250. Just going to wait to bleed the brakes tomorrow and we'll be set. Glad to have it over with!