Steve I think the big flaw in the test results are that they first ran there bench test with a dirty well used paper air cleaner and then installed a new K&N, and of course there would have been a big improvement. what they should have done is first replace it with a new OEM filter and run there benchmark. they did the same with the tune up so we dont know if the difference is the components they used or the bad ones they replaced.


Bruce

 

Plumbing insulation.



You can also use the silver bubble-wrap type of insulation, but that's MUCH more expensive. A guy on FSB did it that way, and posted photos there.

 

PKRWUD:
You said a couple of guys with 96 300s have put the K&N on with good results? I've always assumed that the underhood hot air intake would offset any gains from freer breathing. Do they have timeslips or dyno data for before and after or just the SOP meter?

I know you had both the Jet chip and K&N. I assume they complemented one another. When the Jet crapped out, did you still see the benefits from the K&N or did you need both to realize the performance gains.

It's spring and I have a new Summit catalogue...

 

StrangeRanger,

In the general section there are a few old thread with people measuring underhood temps. The swings aren't nearly as bad as most people would think, I know it shocked me how close the temps were. Combined with air flow once moving I think intake flow outweighs the temp difference in most cases.

I even went so far as to calculate the power difference, using the SAE power correction formulas. Unless you have unusually high temps under hood, or a poor flowing intake it's more or less a winning situation as long as the intake is worth at least a couple HP.


I did an airbox mod keeping the cool air tube attempting to get the best of both in flow and temp. IIRC Pkrwud used a duct to try and route cool air towards his exposed filter.


For the record, I've had K&Ns in some of my vehicles virtually since they were new, and never had a problem with crap in the intake tract, even in some really nasty silt and crap south of the US border. I've always used the spray type oil which seems a lot easier to coat a filter with.

 

new K&N Air filter drop in just put in today... i dont think i put it back together right? i mean its on and clamped but it was a lot of tugging and pushing b/c the plastic was ilke all hard :P looks good.. only $47.18..... yep wow...

 

I'm not aware of anyone with a timeslip, but anything is possible.

I installed the FIPK first, and noticed a difference right away. I don't care what anyone else's report says, talk to someone with a 4.9L that installed one, and see what they say.

I offer an open invitation to anyone that wants to do the wrenching to come and swap the stock box back in my truck, drive it, and then reinstall the FIPK and drive it, and they will see for themselves. I noticed an improvement in around town driving, but it wasn't as impressive as the difference it made on the freeway, especially under load and going uphill. Perhaps it's more beneficial to 4.9L trucks w/ a 5 speed, or maybe living at sea level has something to do with it, I really don't know. What I do know is it made a big improvement, and this was confirmed when I later switched back to the stock box to try something else. I noticed the difference as soon as I got out of my driveway, and it was really apparent the next time I went over the Conejo Grade.

Signmaster is correct; I mounted mine a little bit differently than the recommended location, and I do have a duct that brings outside air from the opening in the bumper to the underside of the filter, but honestly, I don't think those mods make a noticable difference.

Things only got better when I installed the chip, and that was confirmed when the chip eventually failed, and reconfirmed when I installed the replacement. I never tried the chip w/o the FIPK, but I did use the FIPK w/o the chip, and in every case, it was an improvement over stock.

For the record, like Signmaster, I have never had a problem with dirt getting by, My intake tubes are clean enough to eat off of, even after 8 years of driving with the FIPK, and driving in and around a lot of dirt.

Those of us that have a 4.9L know they are not fast engines, which may be why something so simple makes a big difference. Adding a few horsepower to an engine that only has 150 to begin with makes a much more noticable improvement than adding a couple hp to an engine that already has 200 hp or more.

I really can't say how or why it works, but for me, and for others I know that have a 4.9L F-150, and have installed an FIPK, the results have made it a worthwhile install.





Bruce's suggestion that you should make sure your tune up parts are in good shape is a good one. It can be amazing what a new set of plugs will do to an engine. His suggestion of replacing the ignition is a waste of money unless your current ignition is failing. The factory ignition is more than sufficient, and adding a more expensive one won't do a thing for performance, unless your current ignition is not up to par. I did install a new coil and a Crane HI-6 box, and discovered this first hand. I already knew what was going to happen, but I guess I had to see it for myself.