While looking over my truck yesturday I noticed a hose that got disconnected from somewhere. Can anyone tell me where this goes to? Sometimes my rpm's fluctuate between 500 and 900 on start up, could this be the culprit?



Also, I tried to perform the test with the flashes of the check engine light, and I couldent get it to flash, I heard the relays turn on though. I assume it just doesnt work, because it doesnt even come on when I turn the key to the ON position. So I bought a code reader, It gave me a code 32 for the KOEO test. It came with a listing of what the codes mean, I dont have it on me but it said something about the EGR low pressure I think. I know it was something with the EGR though. What steps should I take to solving this problem?

 

Check and make sure you have both hoses going to the vacuum reservoir. That could be one of them.

 

Also, just out of curiosity, do your heater controls work properly?

 

That's the hose the HVAC system. It should go to a T near the blower motor where it branches to the reservoir & thru the firewall.

Pull the cluster & change the engine light bulb, & try to return that reader for a refund. Then use this procedure.

The EGR is vacuum-operated, so any vacuum leak can interfere with it. Fix that hose, clear the codes, put a few hundred miles on it, & recheck for codes.

 

If your talking about the defrost, floor, panel and mix setting, no they dont work very well. Well they work, they just dont work on the setting they are on. For example, if its on defrost heat will come out of the floor also. And the slider wont go all the way to the left. Im pretty sure I found where it is suppose to go, I will pick up some new hose and let you guys know how it worked.

About the check engine light, im going to go ahead and replace it. Is there an advantage to checking the codes by counting the flashing lights as to use the scanner? Or are you just tryin to save me my money?

 

Mainly just cheaper, but I think it's more reliable, too. Some people have gotten erroneous codes or missed real codes using scanners. If you count the flashes correctly, that never happens with the flashout technique.

 

Quick update, just got done takin the dash apart. I dont have a check engine light. There isnt a bulb or a socket there. On the dash where the lights light up, theres a total of 8 bulb places, only 4 of mine are used. 2 of them are for the turn signals, 1 is the battery, and 1 is the rear antilock light. The ones that arent used are, looks like a yellow "Check Engine" light, a red "Engine" light, then the 4x4 and Low Range lights. Any thoughts about that?

 

Sounds like the previous owner didn't know squat about pulling codes & maintaining the truck, so he just pulled the bulbs. The yellow one is only for the emissions maintenance, so you can leave that one out. If you find a little module like this on the back of the cluster, you can remove & trash it.



Your truck is 2WD, so it's not surprising there's no 4WD or Low lights.

The bulbs & holders are standard & common, so you should be able to find them at Wal-Mart or any parts store, or in the junkyards. The only one that might be different is the ALT (battery) bulb holder, which sometimes contains a resistor. Don't use that kind in any other position.

While you have it apart, you might as well replace ALL those little bulbs since they get dim as they age, and they're not expensive. You've done all the hard work already, so don't waste it by risking a burned bulb soon after putting it all back. Just be sure to use the correct bulb. There are 2 models of bulb that look identical, but they're not. #194 bulbs are slightly brighter than #161s, and 194 is the recommended bulb for truck clusters.