codes and other stupid topics
codes and other stupid topics
well she made her first trip out of the drive way in.... almost 2 years today, ran but like crap, i think the timing is off, but i ran out of day light. i did pull the codes off...
522- not in park??? yea, it was?
327-egr valve position circut below min. voltage(it has no egr thats why thats on)
552-thermareactor air bypass solinoid circut fault
565-canister purge solinoid circut fault
none of these would be a noticable performance loss ? so i am most likely out on my timing?right? i didnt pull the spout but i did stick the light on it and came back with it at low idle around 600rpm 10* but when you twist the wick on it a little it goes clear up to 40* or more? is that normal with the spout still connected? i cant remeber if i have ever put a light on it with the spout still connected.
and has any one in here had troyer do your eec?? i am going to as soon as i get a)the money b)the time .i guess he can lie to the computer about the egr in order to trick the cil. and if you had him do you some tunes what was the damage to the pocket and how much better is it now??
not a real in depth thread but just thought i would post
522- not in park??? yea, it was?
327-egr valve position circut below min. voltage(it has no egr thats why thats on)
552-thermareactor air bypass solinoid circut fault
565-canister purge solinoid circut fault
none of these would be a noticable performance loss ? so i am most likely out on my timing?right? i didnt pull the spout but i did stick the light on it and came back with it at low idle around 600rpm 10* but when you twist the wick on it a little it goes clear up to 40* or more? is that normal with the spout still connected? i cant remeber if i have ever put a light on it with the spout still connected.
and has any one in here had troyer do your eec?? i am going to as soon as i get a)the money b)the time .i guess he can lie to the computer about the egr in order to trick the cil. and if you had him do you some tunes what was the damage to the pocket and how much better is it now??
not a real in depth thread but just thought i would post
The open circuits themselves won't affect engine performance, but if the CANP is flat-out MISSING, that will create a huge vacuum leak.
What transmission does that truck have? The 522 could be due to a bad MLPS. They were redesigned because water intrusion caused malfunctions. Be prepared to pull each wire terminal out of the original connector & swap them into the new shell provided with all new MLPSs.
What transmission does that truck have? The 522 could be due to a bad MLPS. They were redesigned because water intrusion caused malfunctions. Be prepared to pull each wire terminal out of the original connector & swap them into the new shell provided with all new MLPSs.
thanks steve, i have an 88 4x4 302 with an aod... will the mlps cause any harm or just a code??and about the CANP i searched for it and found it was some type of valve in the vac. harness and the thread i got that off of was talking about a 96, and that would be obd 2 so i dont know if that info is the same as what i need and i didnt see it in the manual but i was looking in the glosarry because i didnt know where it was..
so today i got the spout pulled out and got the timing set, but what rpm sould i be using to set the time?? the book says to see specific vehicle info, but i dont have a sticker on mine for emmisions so i dont know, i set it at 10* running about 600 rpm and it ran way better than before, i drove it around the block tonight and it ran pretty good (it will spin one tire atleast)but it wont stay running at idle??? so i wonder if i need to adjust the "unadustable" screw?? the reason i wonder if i need to adjust it is that a) thunderbird computer b) bigger cam c) my luck...thanks
so today i got the spout pulled out and got the timing set, but what rpm sould i be using to set the time?? the book says to see specific vehicle info, but i dont have a sticker on mine for emmisions so i dont know, i set it at 10* running about 600 rpm and it ran way better than before, i drove it around the block tonight and it ran pretty good (it will spin one tire atleast)but it wont stay running at idle??? so i wonder if i need to adjust the "unadustable" screw?? the reason i wonder if i need to adjust it is that a) thunderbird computer b) bigger cam c) my luck...thanks
The AOD doesn't use a MLPS; it uses a similar older switch (NSS - neutral start switch) which isn't monitored by the EEC. So your EEC shouldn't be setting that code since it shouldn't be programmed to even look for it. Now that you MENTION
that you have the wrong EEC, that explains a LOT! That should have been in your FIRST post.
Get the right EEC in there & it'll behave better.
Your truck may or may not use a CANP, but it would be identical to the later one. It's the big gold one in the center here, but yours could be a little closer to the battery.

Follow the tune-up instructions on your emissions label / vacuum map.
that you have the wrong EEC, that explains a LOT! That should have been in your FIRST post.
Get the right EEC in there & it'll behave better.Your truck may or may not use a CANP, but it would be identical to the later one. It's the big gold one in the center here, but yours could be a little closer to the battery.
Follow the tune-up instructions on your emissions label / vacuum map.
Follow the tune-up instructions on your emissions label / vacuum map.-steve
i dont have a sticker on my truck, i dont know why. i wonder if i should get the info off a t bird?
Your truck may or may not use a CANP, but it would be identical to the later one. It's the big gold one in the center here, but yours could be a little closer to the battery...-steve i dont think i have one, i should look at the bronco when she gets home and look to see if it has one, but i dont think mine does the vac lines go around the back side of the throttle body and down to the canister.
Now that you MENTION that you have the wrong EEC, that explains a LOT! That should have been in your FIRST post. Get the right EEC in there & it'll behave better-steve..why would i want to do that?!?!?
but yea thats most likely why the 522 code came up...loland but the way i have tried several times to get my signature to work but i dont know what i am not doing to make it show up, i click on the save changes or what ever it says at the bottom and it never shows up when i post?wtf?
i dont have a sticker on my truck, i dont know why. i wonder if i should get the info off a t bird?
Your truck may or may not use a CANP, but it would be identical to the later one. It's the big gold one in the center here, but yours could be a little closer to the battery...-steve i dont think i have one, i should look at the bronco when she gets home and look to see if it has one, but i dont think mine does the vac lines go around the back side of the throttle body and down to the canister.
Now that you MENTION that you have the wrong EEC, that explains a LOT! That should have been in your FIRST post. Get the right EEC in there & it'll behave better-steve..why would i want to do that?!?!?
but yea thats most likely why the 522 code came up...loland but the way i have tried several times to get my signature to work but i dont know what i am not doing to make it show up, i click on the save changes or what ever it says at the bottom and it never shows up when i post?wtf?
Well, you've managed to patch something together that runs, but you can't expect it all to work exactly right since you don't have anything complete. If you want to get it RIGHT, I suggest collecting everything you need to make it either ALL F150, or ALL T-bird. Personally, I'd go with the truck engine.
It's certainly possible to hack all that stuff together & get it to work right, but that's the hard way. I'm doing it right now to a friend's '75 Bronco. Check each album for details about just how hacked up that thing is.
It runs GREAT, and when I'm done, it'll be almost like a modern vehicle.
It's certainly possible to hack all that stuff together & get it to work right, but that's the hard way. I'm doing it right now to a friend's '75 Bronco. Check each album for details about just how hacked up that thing is.
It runs GREAT, and when I'm done, it'll be almost like a modern vehicle.
i had it all, for a truck but the truck is SD and that is not what i wanted, i wanted mass air, and since the ford kit for mass air is super $$$$ i went another route and used the tbird as a donor for the computer and harness. by the way the kit that ford sells for the truck mass air conversion is nothing more than a mustang eec and mustang harness(you can cross refrence the partnumbers, i think the mustang stuff they use is for a 92)
on the bronco, did yall keep the motor stock??? why not try to source a mass air truck motor for better tuning with upgrades??(thats the whole reason i swapped to mass air in the first place)--my $0.02
on the bronco, did yall keep the motor stock??? why not try to source a mass air truck motor for better tuning with upgrades??(thats the whole reason i swapped to mass air in the first place)--my $0.02
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all but my cam and pistons, gaskets and other stuff like that, my truck is 100% oem ford small block stuff, just not all off the same truck (or car for that matter), and yea, i saw you used a car intake to clear the hood, but what i meant was that you left it speed density and kept the bank fire as both would be on a 88 truck, and no cam or other trick parts because they dont do very well with that eec.
i dont know about TOO powerfull.... but i see where you are comming from kinda like the KISS method, well kinda. tell him to find me an early bronco! i have been wantin one for a while but they are $$$$ and out here in denver lots of pepole want them for wheelin rigs, so they sell fast when they are at a decent price and that by itself is rare


