Pushbutton an Option?
1988 4.9L f150 4x4
1. Had problems keeping the truck running, the ignition cylinder kept falling back after i cranked it.
So i replaced it.
Apparently it is still not working, so i "engineered" a shim to place between the rod and the column to hold it in place, and the ignition would stay on.
Now the rod must not be making connection with the ignition switch.
IS THERE ANYWAY I CAN INSTALL A PUSHBUTTON FOR THE STARTER , and Keep my truck running without the key cylinder? I can unlock my steering wheel but not keep any power on with the key, unless i hold it.
I would really like to keep from installing a new ignition switch if possible. It is just a work truck, and looks arent an issue. I can crank it with the selenoid switch now with a screwdriver, but thats the only way, and i must hold the key cylinder in place to keep it running.
I AM NEW TO ALL OF THIS AND ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED!!!
thanks,
tatea
1. Had problems keeping the truck running, the ignition cylinder kept falling back after i cranked it.
So i replaced it.
Apparently it is still not working, so i "engineered" a shim to place between the rod and the column to hold it in place, and the ignition would stay on.
Now the rod must not be making connection with the ignition switch.
IS THERE ANYWAY I CAN INSTALL A PUSHBUTTON FOR THE STARTER , and Keep my truck running without the key cylinder? I can unlock my steering wheel but not keep any power on with the key, unless i hold it.
I would really like to keep from installing a new ignition switch if possible. It is just a work truck, and looks arent an issue. I can crank it with the selenoid switch now with a screwdriver, but thats the only way, and i must hold the key cylinder in place to keep it running.
I AM NEW TO ALL OF THIS AND ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED!!!
thanks,
tatea
Simplest (least elegant) way is to "backfeed" through the fuse panel... find an "always on" source like the dome/buzzer then an ignition switched source. Get a switch with two wires and wrap the wire ends around a blade of each fuse. Probing to find the "downstream", unpowered leg of the fuse will allow the fuse to protect the circuit.
I'd look for a 15-20amp fuse on both sides to provide power for the fuel pump, spark, and computer. You'll still have to hit the starter relay with a screwdriver but it's simple enough to run a new small wire to a pushbutton that's getting +12v.
You'd be much better served digging around under the dash and finding the main harness to the ignition switch. Then you can also activate the accessory circuit and not worry about overloading that 15-20 amps.
I'd look for a 15-20amp fuse on both sides to provide power for the fuel pump, spark, and computer. You'll still have to hit the starter relay with a screwdriver but it's simple enough to run a new small wire to a pushbutton that's getting +12v.
You'd be much better served digging around under the dash and finding the main harness to the ignition switch. Then you can also activate the accessory circuit and not worry about overloading that 15-20 amps.
I'm with Steve , the only thing to do is replace it. it is cheep and a easy job. you will save a lot of time and the cost will be about the same as doing the hack job. and there are some real safety issues with the hack job.
Bruce
Bruce
the easy way out in my mind would to be, buy a remote starter for it, no not the kind that you crank in your livingroom before you go out in the morning but the kind you use when you are cranking the truck from under the hood. some are like a pistol grip with a trigger and some are a button on a handle but either way they work the same. they have a cord with two clamps and you put one on the pos. battery cable and one on the small terminal on your starter relay, yours should be between the two bigger terminals. and you said looks arnt an issue so it wouldnt be that bad to route the cable for the switch out the back of the hood and in through the door into the cab, it would cost you about $25-$35 but the intalation would ba a cinch
just an idea
just an idea
The starter trigger you're describing won't work - it still relies on the ignition switch. It would take a real remote start system to bypass the ignition switch totally, and that's a LOT more work & $$$ than just fixing the actuators.


