Our nicely aged (160k) truck has original engine and auto tranny. At the moment, the only issues with it are nuisance things like a leaky right exhaust manifold and slightly leaky rear tank. It eats a little coolant now and then. It has an E4OD and towing package. I did the basic tuneup stuff (plugs, wires, battery, dist, serpentine) last year.

This year we'll be towing a horse trailer (about 5-6000 lb) for trips over 100 miles. I want to be sure as I can be that it will hold up.

So far my checklist is:
1) Engine compression test
2) Replace rear gas tank

What other stuff should I be checking out?

How hard is doing the compression test? (it seems that reaching into the 351W manifold while it's hot might be better for a pro mechanic).

Dave

 

Tranny flush, biggest stacked plate cooler you can find to help keep the E4OD as cool as possible. If ya wanna go hard core, a tranny temp gauge to keep an eye on.

Adrianspeeder

 

I see. I already did a complete drain/replace/filter on the tranny, and stopped short of installing the shift kit I bought (I was pressed for time).

How 'bad' is the stock tranny cooler? I would think it's cheaper to install the tranny temp gauge first and then add a cooler if it's getting too hot.

I think you helped me with info before - you're the guy up near Penn National, right?

Thanks,

Dave

 

Kinda hard to have too much cooling, but your way works too.

Wow, harrisburg too huh?, I'm outside of Middletown.

 

Ahh, different forum member.

I'm just south of New Cumberland, not far as the crow flies.

What shop would you recommend?

Dave

 

Compression test is easy. The engine doesnt have to be hot, let the engine run for a minute or so to lube up the cylinders and heat up the rings a little but it wont be so hot that you wont be able to reach down there. Other than that have it looked over top to bottom, u-joints, front end parts, etc. On a high milage truck anything could go wrong at anytime, but it sounds like you have your bases covered. We have an f-150 with over 210K and i dont think we done more than $500 in repairs to it in the past 100K miles (other that brakes and oil changes).

-Jon

 

Cool, I wander over to the western shore from time to time. Actually the guy I would recommend sold his shop and moved south awhile back, but since than haven't required any big undoable jobs. Gene's service in Middletown on main st, has a nice guy runnin' it where we have had inspections done.

Adrianspeeder

 

Stopping is more important than going - check the brakes thoroughly.

Keeping the wheels on the ground is next - check shocks, springs, bushings, alignment, steering linkage, TIRES...

Then you can worry about the engine, trans, etc.

 

Well I did the compression test this afternoon (brr, 22f and snowing).

Results look good, I think. 167, 167, 170, 167, 172, 175, 167, 175 psi. (#1-8). It definitely passes the 25% criteria.

The engine had been run for about 20mi and parked for an hour - just enough to let the manifold to be slightly warm to the touch. Technically it should be hot, but I guess this is good enough.

The plugs looked reasonably clean, except #4 which had black soot from blowby. So maybe my leaky manifold sound is just this plug. I'm using Bosch Platinum plugs, and they don't have any crush washer, just a conical seat type of thing. Since it's #4 I can't see how the threads look. After putting the plugs back in I revved the engine with the brake down and the ticking is quieter, but not gone.

So, if you're still reading:
1) How are those compression numbers?

2) Why might #4 plug be leaky? Is there another kind of plug or something that might seal better?

My maintenance to-do list still reads: timing check, replace radiator hoses and coolant, bleed brakes.

Thanks everyone,

Dave