Pre-1997 Models

Turning on headlights kills Engine

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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 01:36 AM
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blue95's Avatar
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From: Louisiana
Turning on headlights kills Engine

1995 f150 5.0L
Just got done installing a new engine into my truck.
it's running great, but at idle when I turn on the headlights it kills the engine. I can rev the motor way up to turn them on, and then it's fine until I turn on the brights, and then the motor just stops. I tried to bump up the idle to compensate, but it's at 1200rpm and still killing it.

it feels like the alternator is pulling _really_ hard on the engine, almost like a jake brake in a semi or something.. if I unhook the alternator headlights work fine. alternator gauge shows it charging fine.

any ideas?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 06:45 AM
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Congrats on the new engine. I am still feeling the pain of a motor swap myself. I'd suggest checking for a short. All that work under the hood can lead to some unintentional wire damage.

Did you go with a stock replacement engine, or are there some mods?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 09:06 AM
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From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
Clean & tighten the battery wire terminals (all 4 ends).
 
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 1muddytruck
Did you go with a stock replacement engine, or are there some mods?
it's a motor I pulled a couple of years ago for another project.. a 351w fuel injected with a computer from a 93 mustang.. rpm head, etc. etc. 420hp/550tq.. you look at the accelorator now and the 33/10.5 tires spin over... it's a little much. wireing was a major pain, but it's so much better than a carb.

it all works great except for the headlight problem. I'm gonna go clean the terminals and check the body ground.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve83
Clean & tighten the battery wire terminals (all 4 ends).
did not work... any other ideas?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 10:44 PM
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From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
Take it to a parts store that tests charging systems free in the parking lot. Many have a roll-out machine that measures starters, alternators, & batteries. If it's the alt, buy a US reman. If it's the battery, buy a MotorCraft or Sears DieHard Gold.

If you know what you're doing, you can test them all with a cheap digital multimeter, but it's intricate & requires precise procedures to yield useful results. (Alliteration is kool! )
 
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 10:47 AM
  #7  
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Fixed it - replaced the negative battery cable, the small body ground cable had been abused.. works great.

it is wasn't so cold I could take it to the exhaust shop to finish it off.. just don't want to burn the valves with 32 degree weather and open headers.

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 04:16 PM
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did you go with full length headers on the new engine ?
 
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