K&n Fipk
K&n Fipk
I was thinking about buying a K&N fipk. I had a couple questions about it. My major question is: DOES IT ACTUALLY WORK? I've heard a lot of good and bad things. Some people swear it is like a whole new truck, others say it does nothing. What can I expect from it from performance and gas milage increase on my 5.8? Also, what would be the difference in buying a universal K&N filter with dual ports or making a Y into a single universal for $25 - $50 as opposed to buying the fipk at 200 something? Thanks. Also do throttle body spacers work. or how about the turbonator
Last edited by Atipsword; Nov 30, 2006 at 01:13 AM.
To save you some moeny, just buy the drop-in K&N and go to the local salvage yard and get the inlet duct for the airbox off of a F-Series with a 4.9 or 460 engine. It will give the same effect without the loud noise....
With a 351, you won't notice much of an effect. With a 4.9L, on the other hand, it makes a huge improvement!
A drop-in won't do anything at all for power or mileage, but it will save you money if you plan on keeping your truck for 4 or more years.
A homemade FIPK will work, but the K&N version is well made, and worth the money, IMO. There are a few pics of the way I modified mine in my gallery.
A drop-in won't do anything at all for power or mileage, but it will save you money if you plan on keeping your truck for 4 or more years.
A homemade FIPK will work, but the K&N version is well made, and worth the money, IMO. There are a few pics of the way I modified mine in my gallery.
Originally Posted by cavinandpavin
you have a speed density not a mass air so i think its a waste of $$$
I am new here and I am a little lost here, are you guy's talking about a K&N cold air intake? is it just a air pipe that comes off of the front of the engine and has a big round air filter on it. My truck is a 1994 F150 crew cab short box 4x4 with 33"x12.5"Durango mud tires, with a 290 000 km 5.0 liter with a K&N filter in the stock air box and a Glass pack in the stock exhaust. What should I do to give me some more power to turn my big tires?
There is NO bolt-on external part (other than a supercharger or giggle gas kit) that is going to give you a noticable power increase; all the product claims to the contrary are pure advertising BS. Most of the "up to 25 HP" devices provide something more like 2-3 HP.
If you want more power you need to process more fuel/air mixture. The things that can do that for you are better heads, a bigger cam or higher ratio rockers, headers and an aftermarket intake manifold. For a 5.0 there's a ton of stuff available, so you simply have to decide how much damage the Visa can take and go from there. If you have a Speed/Density EFI system (2 hoses from the airbox to the throttle body), you have to be careful not to exceed the limits of the system or you'll need to have your processor re-flashed. With a MAF system (one hose with a bifurcated ens at the T/B) you have much wider latitude.
If you want more power you need to process more fuel/air mixture. The things that can do that for you are better heads, a bigger cam or higher ratio rockers, headers and an aftermarket intake manifold. For a 5.0 there's a ton of stuff available, so you simply have to decide how much damage the Visa can take and go from there. If you have a Speed/Density EFI system (2 hoses from the airbox to the throttle body), you have to be careful not to exceed the limits of the system or you'll need to have your processor re-flashed. With a MAF system (one hose with a bifurcated ens at the T/B) you have much wider latitude.
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The stock Mustang heads are only marginally better than the truck heads, IMHO they're not worth the effort of swapping them. The best cheap heads out there are either the old cast iron GT-40 "3 line heads" which were sold as aftermarket by SVO and used on the Mustang Cobra and Gen I Lightning or the GT-40P heads used on the 5.0 Explorers. The P heads have a funny spark plug angle though and do not work with all exhaust manifolds and headers. If your budget allows more, the sky is the limit.
As to intake manifold, IMHO the stock Mustang unit has no real advantage over the stock truck unit. Take a look at the Edelbrock truck-specific manifold.
As to intake manifold, IMHO the stock Mustang unit has no real advantage over the stock truck unit. Take a look at the Edelbrock truck-specific manifold.
thanks Stranger Ranger! Just got my truck body rebuilt after being hitting a float on a dump truck and it was sold for junk. so know its time to try and make some more power out of it since I put my 33" tires on it it does not have enough power.
[QUOTE=StrangeRanger] For a 5.0 there's a ton of stuff available, )
true, but when i was looking for stuff or my 5.0 rebuild it was not easy to find truck related stuff, most parts are for high rpm applications and i wanted low rpm parts (or for pulling big tires on stock ratios)for towing and general low end grunt and on the mustang upper and lower intakes.. the truck intake runners are close to double in size, plus all that mustang stuff is set up for an intake on the pass side where as the truck is stock o the driver side, even the valve covers are completely diffrent(i got stang valve covers on my truck and you have to have a big funnel and alot of time to fill her up with oil
).....jut a few more things to think about
true, but when i was looking for stuff or my 5.0 rebuild it was not easy to find truck related stuff, most parts are for high rpm applications and i wanted low rpm parts (or for pulling big tires on stock ratios)for towing and general low end grunt and on the mustang upper and lower intakes.. the truck intake runners are close to double in size, plus all that mustang stuff is set up for an intake on the pass side where as the truck is stock o the driver side, even the valve covers are completely diffrent(i got stang valve covers on my truck and you have to have a big funnel and alot of time to fill her up with oil
).....jut a few more things to think about
Truck specific (or at least truck appropriate) stuff (off the top of my head)
Heads: FRPP GT-40/GT-40P; Edelbrock; AFR 185
Camshafts: Crane 2020, 2030; Isky 381256,381262; Crower Baja Beast and Torque Beast and virtually every other grinder
Intake and T/B: Edelbrock
Headers: Again, nearly everyone, FRPP offers a set of bolt-on shorties that are truck specific and fit the stock cat; Doug's offers their Tri-Y torque monsters, etc.
Oil Pan: Milodon, Canton
There are more. Just because Summit or Jeg's doesn't lead with it in their catalogue doesn't mean it doesn't exist. You need to dig a little
Heads: FRPP GT-40/GT-40P; Edelbrock; AFR 185
Camshafts: Crane 2020, 2030; Isky 381256,381262; Crower Baja Beast and Torque Beast and virtually every other grinder
Intake and T/B: Edelbrock
Headers: Again, nearly everyone, FRPP offers a set of bolt-on shorties that are truck specific and fit the stock cat; Doug's offers their Tri-Y torque monsters, etc.
Oil Pan: Milodon, Canton
There are more. Just because Summit or Jeg's doesn't lead with it in their catalogue doesn't mean it doesn't exist. You need to dig a little
i got a set of headers from hooker and a lunati cam (voodoo it is supposed to set the valves down a little easyer to make the valve train last a little longer) and i went maf from the junk yard with thunder chicken electrics and stuck with the stock upper and lower intakes with a bunch of grinding and smoothing(also the budget was tight) and a set of stock stang heads with a little tweaking( i was told the gt 40 heads had to use diffrent headers) and i already had purchased the headers to fit the truck


