Skeaking/Squealing then a Check Engine Light
Skeaking/Squealing then a Check Engine Light
My 95 F150 started making a squealing/squeaking noise like a bad belt or pulley might sound when i started it a few minutes ago. The noise stops when i push the accelerator and starts again when i come back down to an idle. Its pretty constant, no breaks in the noise itself. Got a few minutes down the road and the check engine light came on. The belt feels tight with no cracking or signs of age, and pulleys all seem tight. Anyone have any ideas?
First thing to do would be to remove the serpentine belt to check all of the accessory pulleys as well as the idlers. I suspect one of them may have a bad bearing.
As for the CEL, you must pull the codes to find out what the EEC is trying to tell you. And since you have a '95 (OBD1), all you need is a peperclip to pull the codes
As for the CEL, you must pull the codes to find out what the EEC is trying to tell you. And since you have a '95 (OBD1), all you need is a peperclip to pull the codes
Okay so i bought a OBD1 reader for $30 at Kragen and my truck is reading out 2 codes:
332 (Continuous memory code) - Insufficient EGR flow detected
335 (Key off engine off code) - EGR Sensor Circuit Voltage Higher or Lower Than Expected During Self Test
So it would appear that i have a problem with the EGR valve/system, but could this be causing a squeak like i described? Also, i noticed a bit of a fluttering sound when accelerating.
I have no idea where to go from here. Any help is appreciated.
ON EDIT: I went out and looked/listened again. It looks like the tensioner pulley may be what is causing the squeal I heard. At an idle the pulley is bouncing up and down...not super excessively but enough to see. I also noticed when removing the belt that the tensioner was extremely easy to move which leads me to believe that the spring is weak. When the engine is revved up the tensioner pulley smooths out which might explain why the squeal goes away with acceleration.
What I am after now is what actuates the EGR open and closed. All I see is a small vacuum connection on top of the disc but no electrical. Can someone help me out??
Thanks
332 (Continuous memory code) - Insufficient EGR flow detected
335 (Key off engine off code) - EGR Sensor Circuit Voltage Higher or Lower Than Expected During Self Test
So it would appear that i have a problem with the EGR valve/system, but could this be causing a squeak like i described? Also, i noticed a bit of a fluttering sound when accelerating.
I have no idea where to go from here. Any help is appreciated.
ON EDIT: I went out and looked/listened again. It looks like the tensioner pulley may be what is causing the squeal I heard. At an idle the pulley is bouncing up and down...not super excessively but enough to see. I also noticed when removing the belt that the tensioner was extremely easy to move which leads me to believe that the spring is weak. When the engine is revved up the tensioner pulley smooths out which might explain why the squeal goes away with acceleration.
What I am after now is what actuates the EGR open and closed. All I see is a small vacuum connection on top of the disc but no electrical. Can someone help me out??
Thanks
Last edited by Skandocoius; Sep 30, 2006 at 04:42 PM.
Originally Posted by Jrpotts01
Does your truck have a smog pump? If so, I would put my money on that to be squeeking. I replaced mine last month. 10min job.
I have been driving the truck most of today with no noises. Was yours intermittent like mine? When I took the belt off the pulley seemed tight and when turned didn't make any noise. My brother is here but he has a 7.3L powerstroke so he doesnt know much about this motor/smog systems. Does the air pump actuate the EGR???
Thanks for all of you help...
Nobody has any advice for me? I don't think the smog pump is the problem because those are hard to turn by hand when they go bad and mine is still relatively easy. It seems that my EGR sensor might have gone bad. Does anyone have experience with the EGR sensor going bad, and if so what were the symptoms. My truck runs fine but its throwing those two EGR codes mentioned above (332, 335) which leads me to beleive that the sensor has gone bad. Or maybe the valve is stuck shut and needs to be replaced.
I am assuming that the pressure sensor is what actuates the valve. Is that correct?
Where can I go from here? Any help is appreciated, I'm getting a check engine light with the same codes every time I drive the truck. Starting to make me nervous.
Thanks,
Chris
I am assuming that the pressure sensor is what actuates the valve. Is that correct?
Where can I go from here? Any help is appreciated, I'm getting a check engine light with the same codes every time I drive the truck. Starting to make me nervous.
Thanks,
Chris
Last edited by Skandocoius; Oct 1, 2006 at 03:25 PM.


