My inline 6 starts fine but falls on its face if you step on it. You can kind of drive it IF to baby the gas pedal.

I took it to a shop they told me that I was getting 75-80 PSI of fuel and to replace the FPR--didnt help.

I also replace the fuel filter.

I took it back to the shop and they told me to replace the fuel pump module--didnt help

I pulled codes and go 2 EGR faults, one low flow and 1 faults to EGR soloid circuit. I tested the EGR ohm, diaphram and voltage per the book and it passed all test. The shop didnt seem to think it was the problem either.

I installed new rotor and cap and play with the timing.

I installed new plugs and wires.

I read another thread where a guy had a simular issue and it turned out to be his altenator and I knew mine was flakey so I got a new one-didnt help

I checked visually and with carb spray for manifold leaks-found nothing

Both the ECC and Fuel Pump relays went bad during all this so I relpaced them

This was supposed to be a CHEAP $450 farm truck and I have spent over $1300 in repair bills at 2 different shops and if anything, the truck is worse now, I can hardly drive it anymore.

HELP!!!!

 

What year?

Have you tried disconnecting and plugging the vacuum line to the EGR?

When you create a vacuum leak, does the idle go up or down?

What is your fuel pressure now, both KOER and KOEO?

How fast does the pressure bleed down after turning the key off?

Have you tried running injector cleaner through the system?

 

Also, what are the exact fault codes (not descriptions)?

Try unplugging the MAF sensor then starting it to see if it bogs when the accelerator is pressed. Note: You will get a CEl and code for this which can be reset/ignored.

Have you checked the fuel return line for restrictions?

Steve

 

make sure everything is tight and snug/properly set up and tuned in your distributor. my dad had the same problem and after replacing many things, it turned out to be a loose screw.

 

I have misplaced my code book but I just pulled the codes again and got 522, 558 and 332

 

332-Insufficient EGR flow detected

Code 558-EGR vacuum regulator circuit failure. Is this the EVP sensor?

I just sprayed some starting fluid on the TB and it had an effect too

I got 20 steady PSI of vacuum at the tree and only 4-5 at the can btw too.

 

At what can?



The 4.9L's had a problem with the gasket that goes between the intake and the throttle body getting sucked in, creating symptoms similar to yours. Since you noticed a difference spraying starting fluid there, you'd be wise to replace that gasket, and closely inspect the old one.

 

If would have helped if you had identified exactly which year, engine, and transmission you have. I'm assuming a 4.9 that is between 93 and 95.

522 - Turn the A/C off if on. Make certain you don't have the clutch pushed in if a stick

558 - Electrical fault EVR solenoid Make certain it's plugged in

332 - Can't have EGR flow if the EVR solenoid isn't working.


None of these codes are likely related to your performance issues. That vacuum leak sounds promising.

Steve

 

558 - Electrical fault EVR solenoid Make certain it's plugged in-- Everything looks plugged in. I am not sure where this is. I know where the EGR is.

I MAY do the gasket tonight IF it doesnt rain.

Thanks

 

I replaced a bad gasket between my TB and plenum to no avail. I have touched, tested or replaced just about EVERYYTHING I can now and have pretty much run out of things to try. I thing I am going to have to take a $2000 loss and call a junk yard to come take it away.

 

I think you would have been better off just having one shop work on the truck instead of having the different shops have to start the diagnosis from scratch. You might be better off taking it to the dealer, for a few hundred dollars the problem could be over and done with, i don't think i've ever had to charge a customer more that $400 for diag, and if the part i install doesn't fix it all the further diag i do is for free. Other than that have you tried plugging the vacuum line for the EGR yet? Also does you truck have a MAP sensor or a Mass Air Flow sensor? If its MAP that would kind of rule out a vacuum leak since that would just cause a high idle, but if its MAF i would keep spraying around the intake gaskets with carb cleaner, and if it starts running different or you hear the idle kick up you know you have a leak there.

-Jon

 

Thanks John, I did unplug the EGR and apply vucuum and stuff. It has a MAP BTW. After building a racing 5.0 Mustangs for years I USED to think that I was good at Ford EFI but this has really taken me down a few notches

 

I took the old pump out of the tank and the strainer was missing so I installed the new pum with the stainer going in leangthways (up and down) instead of side to side since I didnt know how it was suposed to be. I have since scene a pic of it and realized my error.

The problem now is the it barely starts and will NOT drive, it just stalls. The fluel pressure is only like 17psi with an 1/8 on a tank of gas and a new FPR.

WTF?

Would having the strainer on wrong make it not pick up fuel correctly?

Thanks

 

Well, it certainly won't run with only 17 psi of fuel pressure....

Has to be the strainer or the FP. (now)

Steve

 

Does this vehicle have a DPFE sensor? If so the following may help.

The DPFE sensor measures the differential pressure of the exhaust gas flowing through an orifice in the EGR flow tube. The output voltage of the sensor is sent to the EEC, which in turn controls the EVR. Depending on how the sensor malfunctions it may cause the EGR valve to stay opened or closed. DPFE sensors can also leak, be non-responsive or have output voltage shifts. DPFE sensors have caused Insufficient EGR flow codes. If the EVR appears to be malfunctioning it may be just doing what it is told to do...........the DPFE tells it what to do via the EEC.

The MAP sensor can cause a vacuum leak if the sensor itself leaks. However, I think the leak path would have to be quite large to cause a significant vacuum leak.

Good luck!,
Greg