Hello all, can't believe it's been a year. But that tells me everything was running fine.
Next problem:
I can't get the truck to turn over. I had the alternator checked and it is fine. I had to replace the starter/solenoid, the other was toast. Now the truck will not start. I replaced the post connectors and cleaned the posts and still zip. I tried another battery that I knew worked and still nothing. I put my battery in my wifes explorer and it started right up. So what next ?

 

I bet you have a bad connection at the S terminal on the starter motor. You should still have a solenoid just behind the battery also. When you turn the key, this solenoid energizes first, and sends 12 volts down to the small wire at the starter itself. You could check with a test light for power with the key in the "start" position.

Robbie

 

Thanks, I didn't try the light but I will. I replaced the battery cables and the starter will not spin. I pulled it off and left the cables on and the motor pushes the teeth forward but will not spin. I also replaced the fender solenoid.

Any help ?

 

Funny thing....my truck is doing the exact same thing......if you figure it out please post your fix. I have replaced battery,selinoid, starter. I turn the key the relay clicks, the starter clicks but nothing else. All these parts are new. Now what?

Thanks

Todd

 

Just because the parts are new doesn't mean they are any good. Where did you get your parts? Were they truly new or were they remanufactured from the parts store? More than once I've recieved parts that are DOA from the major chain stores.

When it comes to starters and alternators the only reason I'll buy a reman is to get the vehicle back on the road while I can have my OEM one rebuilt by a reputable shop.

I would pull the starter back off and take it somewhere to verify that it does actually work. If it does then you just start probing with a volt meter to make sure you have proper voltage at all the proper places and times.

 

It is a reman, but heres the deal: Prior to buying the reman, I had the old starter checked and they said its good. I go home and put it on and click click. So I go to O'reileys and get the reman and a new relay. I put the relay on and click click. I put the reman starter on and click click. The relay is engaging and something on the starter clicks but thats it. I dont think its the relay or starter. I'm not real good with a meter. I have one but I'm not sure how to go about checking if im getting 12 volts where Im supposed to be getting 12 volts. When I bought this truck the cover on the bottom of the steering column was missing so I think someone has been messing about up there. Anything under there that would cause these symptoms?

 

Shouldn't be anything in the column that would cause your problems. The whole purpose of the starter relays and such is so that you don't have to have the full current of the starter going across the ignition switch.

Since both your new and old starter are displaying the same symptoms, AND your old starter tested good, I'd say you can rule that out as a problem.

What it sounds like is a classic dead battery. Your battery has enough power to pick up the starter solenoid, but not enough to actually turn it over. So, when you turn the key, you here the solenoid energize and click, then nothing. Normally though this is coupled with a rapid clicking sound. The reason being that when the solenoid engages and the starter tries to turn it causes a voltage drop, which drops out the solenoid. Once it's dropped and the draw from the motor is gone, it energizes again, and the process repeats until the battery is completely dead.

One thing to look at is the voltage at the battery while you're actually trying to start the vehicle. Even a nearly dead battery can show 12 volts with no draw on it. What's important is what type of voltage it shows when you try to start it. If the battery truly is fried the voltage will fall to nearly nothing. If the battery is good, it will drop some, but the vehicle will start, and then the alternator will kick the voltage back up above the original level.

I had a very similar problem with my Corvette recently, and it turns out that the hot wire going to the solenoid was arcing over to ground. Fortunately, instead of building a fire, it just created enough of a current leak because of the dead short that it didn't start. Had I held the ignition in start for any length of time, I'm sure something would have melted. It could be something as simple as that.

I would have to look at the wiring on your particular starter to be sure, but I know on a GM you can take a heavy duty screwdriver that you don't care about, and short directly across two terminals of the starter and it should start the vehicle. If it does, then you know you have a problem ahead of the starter. If it doesn't, then you know you've got problems with the starter itself.

Unfortunately I don't really have the wiring diagram, or the starter from this particular type of truck in front of me.

 

You should have a hot wire coming from the starter relay down to the solenoid on your starter. You should also have a fairly heavy gauge wire going from the battery to the starter. If you take something VERY heavy, such as a screwdriver and jump across these two terminals, it should start the truck. If it does not then you either have a problem with the starter / solenoid assembly, or one of the connections going to it. Provided that the battery is hot.

Beware this is dangerous and it will throw one hell of a spark.

 

Yes I thought of the battery also. I pulled one out of my other truck and got the same results. Im at a loss here. I was selling this truck and a guy came a drove it and said hed be back with the money the following day. He showed up with the monwy and the truck started this. He still wants the truck but wants it fixed first. I really need to figure this one out. The starter has the hot wire on top and the ground below it. Nothing is touching here. There is a small wire with a connector off to the right of the hot wire. I cut of the connector and put a new one just to be sure there was a god connection there. I dont know what that wire is for. The ignition I suppose. If anyone could think of any thing else to try id appreciate it thanks.

 

The smaller wire should go all the back to your starter relay, and could be your problem. I would trace those two wires all the way back to their source. You can try putting a meter on where that wire connects to your relay and ground. You should see 12 volts when you turn the key. If not, your problem is somewhere upstream of that.

 

Be sure to check the ground cable. They are notorious for rotting out to the point that all the minor loads such as lights will work just fine but they won't pass enough current to allow the starter motor to turn

 

OK....here is what i found out with the meter. I connected it to the relay and it shows 12 volts with the key off I hit the key and it drops to .116 volts. Does the same thing when I put the meter on the starter. Does this mean there is a short in the battery cables somewhere?

 

What does it do if you put the meter directly on the battery and try the same?

 

I have to agree. The hot wire going to the starter runs parallel to the hot wire running to the relay. If only one of them was bad, you shouldn't see the same thing on both the relay and the battery. Since the two circuits share the common path back to the negative battery terminal, if the battery is known to be good, a bad connection there is about all that's left.

 

I hooked the meter to the battery and it dropped maybe 1 volt when I hit the key. I put a jumper from the battery ground to the gound on the starter and it didnt help. I jumped the hot wire too and no improvement.