Right front hub
Right front hub
I have a 1995 4X4 with manual transmission, manual transfer case, and automatic locking hubs. Last year I had to replace the right front hub/rotor assembly due to "wear" - It broke!. This year the automatic hub shredded, taking the same hub with it. Well, I'm putting on a new hub, Warm Premium locking hubs, and a general front axle rebuild with 4:56 gears(changing the rear too)
Is anyone else having trouble with the same hub/rotor assembly, or is this just bad luck? I have never had to replace any hub/rotor before, now 2 in a row.
Is anyone else having trouble with the same hub/rotor assembly, or is this just bad luck? I have never had to replace any hub/rotor before, now 2 in a row.
Since before long you'll have a bunch of posts saying what crap the auto-hubs are, I'll dissent. I have auto hubs and never a problem with them save for a trashed washer I was responsible for when I did my ball joints. That's how I came by this info.
I was expressing surprise at the dealer having this obscure washer in stock, Charles Gabus in Des Moines, and the parts guy told me they carry a lot of auto hub parts in the winter because people blow their hubs out by engaging the transfer case at too high of a speed and worse, under acceleration.
He also pointed out that the owners manual erroneously says you can enage the 4X4 at highway speeds. That's his story anyway.
Myself, I've never had a problem with them and even if I did, I'd keep the autos. I just don't see the sense of having manuals when you have to stop and lock and driving with them locked isn't the best scenario either.
I was expressing surprise at the dealer having this obscure washer in stock, Charles Gabus in Des Moines, and the parts guy told me they carry a lot of auto hub parts in the winter because people blow their hubs out by engaging the transfer case at too high of a speed and worse, under acceleration.
He also pointed out that the owners manual erroneously says you can enage the 4X4 at highway speeds. That's his story anyway.
Myself, I've never had a problem with them and even if I did, I'd keep the autos. I just don't see the sense of having manuals when you have to stop and lock and driving with them locked isn't the best scenario either.
My 93 my dad bought new. And they have never had a problem but then again he didnt use it often but everytime he needed it it worked and the same goes for me. They have never failed to date
thanks for all replies. I need to add that the spindle is trashed too. The threads on the end are hard to describe, i'll just say ground down to the point were it is very hard to get the hub off. I replaced this last year too. Same problem, but between the bad hub a and high miles I didn't pay much attention to it, I just replaced it. This year, same problem again. After a complete rebuild, and it isn't coming easy, cheap, or quick, I hope I got it this time. The same problem, the same parts. Gotta be something I'm missing.
Originally Posted by tomcat6
thanks for all replies. I need to add that the spindle is trashed too. The threads on the end are hard to describe, i'll just say ground down to the point were it is very hard to get the hub off. I replaced this last year too. Same problem, but between the bad hub a and high miles I didn't pay much attention to it, I just replaced it. This year, same problem again. After a complete rebuild, and it isn't coming easy, cheap, or quick, I hope I got it this time. The same problem, the same parts. Gotta be something I'm missing.
One thing, you do realize that when you disengage the transfer case, you need to go about 10' in the opposite direction to disengage the hubs? I'm not sure if it will increase the wear on your hubs, but it can't hurt eh?
That's true, they dont engage/disengage right away. But they aren't a problem any more as I replaced them with Warn hubs. I destroyed the right hub and the replacement was 3 times the price of a set of Warn hubs, which are pretty bullet proof. You do have to get out and engage, but I'm used to it
as all the previous 4 wheelers had these hubs. I'm waiting on a new spindle before I get it all back together.
as all the previous 4 wheelers had these hubs. I'm waiting on a new spindle before I get it all back together.
I run the manuals, lock em in on the first snow, unlock em in the spring. Only notice a 1-2mpg loss.
Adrianspeeder
Adrianspeeder
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When my hubs are locked with the transfer case disengaged I get a good vibration from the front end at highway speeds and it steers a bit harder, not to mention worse mileage and wear and tear on the components.
Which is why Ford doesn't recommend driving with the hubs locked and the transfer case disengaged for any extended length of time.
Which is why Ford doesn't recommend driving with the hubs locked and the transfer case disengaged for any extended length of time.
Driving with the hubs locked all the time isnt neccisary. It isnt good on your drivetrain either. For Adrian though, we can make an exception, since he has enough vehicles to drive one for each season of the year.
Either way, ditch the autos and get some Warn manual hubs.
Either way, ditch the autos and get some Warn manual hubs.
Originally Posted by GTRider245
For Adrian though, we can make an exception, since he has enough vehicles to drive one for each season of the year.

Originally Posted by GTRider245
Either way, ditch the autos and get some Warn manual hubs.
Originally Posted by kretinus
When my hubs are locked with the transfer case disengaged I get a good vibration from the front end at highway speeds and it steers a bit harder
Only one truck I have yet to do this for is the 84 Lariat, but with the low milage on that one, and the fact it has only gone 98 miles in two years lets me put it off.
Adrianspeeder
The front end is fine, when I first noticed it I called the dealer who then told me about having to back up to release the hubs.
Actually he asked me if my hubs were locked as soon as I described the problem stating specifically that my truck was not designed to be driven with the hubs locked without being in 4X4.
Actually he asked me if my hubs were locked as soon as I described the problem stating specifically that my truck was not designed to be driven with the hubs locked without being in 4X4.
Driving with hubs locked and transfer case in 2HI shouldnt make the front end vibrate, and if it does soemthing is wrong. All this is doing is making the front axles turn and that makes the front driveshaft turn, but no power is being transferred so there should be no extra vibration.
Originally Posted by GTRider245
Driving with hubs locked and transfer case in 2HI shouldnt make the front end vibrate, and if it does soemthing is wrong. All this is doing is making the front axles turn and that makes the front driveshaft turn, but no power is being transferred so there should be no extra vibration.
Operating in 2H with the hubs locked increases fuel consumption, noise, vibration and wear.
As I stated, there is nothing wrong with the front end of my truck, the vibration and noise I described is normal when the hubs are locked in 2H, it isn't present when the hubs are locked in 4H or 4L.
It isn't a loud noise or a huge vibration, just annoying enough to let you know the hubs are locked. My wifes vehicle performs the same way and has the same disclosure in her manual.
Originally Posted by kretinus
From the Ford Owners Manual:
Operating in 2H with the hubs locked increases fuel consumption, noise, vibration and wear.
As I stated, there is nothing wrong with the front end of my truck, the vibration and noise I described is normal when the hubs are locked in 2H, it isn't present when the hubs are locked in 4H or 4L.
It isn't a loud noise or a huge vibration, just annoying enough to let you know the hubs are locked. My wifes vehicle performs the same way and has the same disclosure in her manual.
Operating in 2H with the hubs locked increases fuel consumption, noise, vibration and wear.
As I stated, there is nothing wrong with the front end of my truck, the vibration and noise I described is normal when the hubs are locked in 2H, it isn't present when the hubs are locked in 4H or 4L.
It isn't a loud noise or a huge vibration, just annoying enough to let you know the hubs are locked. My wifes vehicle performs the same way and has the same disclosure in her manual.
How exaxtly would you know if you got a vibration in 4wd or not? With the driveshaft and axles turning with power behind them, there is a lot of extra vibration
Originally Posted by GTRider245
I have NO extra vibration when driving in 2wd with the hubs locked. Granted, it does decrease gas mileage
Originally Posted by GTRider245
How exaxtly would you know if you got a vibration in 4wd or not? With the driveshaft and axles turning with power behind them, there is a lot of extra vibration





