bad clutch?
One more question before you start spending lots of money: does your clutch pedal return all the way to the top? If it returns properly, that reduces the chances of it being a cylinder problem, they tend to leak in both directions. It also means the pressure plats diaphragm is OK.
Even if there is a hydraulic problem it still might not be the slave.
If it's the master, that's a whole lot easier and cheaper to fix.
Problem is I don't know a diagnostic to determine which is leaking internally and the shop manual is totally freaking worthless on this problem.
Even if there is a hydraulic problem it still might not be the slave.
If it's the master, that's a whole lot easier and cheaper to fix.
Problem is I don't know a diagnostic to determine which is leaking internally and the shop manual is totally freaking worthless on this problem.
That's not good. Could also be a problem with the pressure plate.
When you pull the pedal back up does it move freely and stay up?
Does it move freely up but not want to stay up?
Or do you feel some resistance, like you are having to pull the piston through fluid?
When you pull the pedal back up does it move freely and stay up?
Does it move freely up but not want to stay up?
Or do you feel some resistance, like you are having to pull the piston through fluid?
That sounds like the pedal return spring is doing the moving, not the pressure plate/hydraulics; it also sonds like the pedal assy needscleaned/lubed. Your cylinders could be OK and your pressure plate FUBARed. At any event it's a full teardown.
My 89 F150 300 flywheel had two sets of pressure plate bolt holes in it. Upgrading to 1-ton clutch was completely a bolt on upgrade. The throwout bearing and clutch master cyl. are the same parts as in the 1 ton so no need to worry there. The input shaft has the same 1-ton spline size and count too. My truck came with a ZF 5spd. IMO upgrading is a no brainer. I did notice a ever so slight increase in pedal pressure with the bigger clutch. I do not shift with the clutch so I am not worried about extra stress on the pedal assembly, but even if I did use the clutch with every shift the increase in effort is negligible.
Last edited by Ggg; Oct 21, 2005 at 09:14 AM.
got my truck back a few days ago and runs great. i got the centerforce II 10" clutch and so far is very nice. shifts smooth, pedal is not stiffer i like it. the slave cylinder, clutch, and flywheel resurfacing was about $325. and the labor was $430 so was $755 total. im happy with that price, i was quoted by ford at $1500 for stock replacement and a different local shop said $900 so turned out fairly good.


