reading trouble codes
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Yes no doubt change those plugs. Also a bad ECT sensor will screw up the a/f calulations if its off... use your ohmeter to get the resistance between the two terminals on the ECT sensor. Then tell us what they are. If it reads open circuit than it must be replaced.
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ok thanks test the voltage lask week and it looked ok Ill check again. all sensors except the mao and o2 sensor tested ok for voltage. Wouldn't the new plugs just get wet? Should i try starting it with starting fluid that way I know the fluid will dry up, if it doesn't start. How long are spark plugs good for after they get flooded a few times?
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If they are clean then you can put them back into service after they dry.. you can try cleaning them but I'd recommend replacement with some cheap autolites. You checked for voltage at the sensor terminals? you should be checking the resistance... also the ECT sensor is the one on the front of the engine located in a water jacket somwhere near the thermostat.
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Re: Re: Volt meter
Originally posted by PKRWUD
Wow. Take a couple of days off from the computer, and I miss out on all the fun.
Don't worry about the other advice in this thread, as it would really be a waste of time. You're correct as far as the two temp sensor codes are concerned, and the test procedure I outlined will find exactly which wire, if any is shorted.
You really should consider moving up to a digital multimeter, but we can work with what you have. Set your meter on the 1000 ohm scale (that's what the 'K' means), and stick one test probe (it doesn't matter which one, but to better explain this, lets say you use the black one) to pin 45 at the connector. Then touch the other test probe (the red one) to pin 26, and read the meter. Then move the red probe from pin 26 to pin 46, and read the meter again. Then move the red probe from pin 46 to pin 40, and read the meter again. Then move the red probe from pin 40 to pin 60, and read the meter one last time. Remember to leave the first probe (the black one) on pin 45 the whole time.
If any reading is less than 10,000 ohms, that means there is a short between that wire and the wire that goes to pin 45 (the blue MAP/BP wire). Check the other side of the connector to see which wire goes to the pin with the short, and trace it backwards, into the engine compartment, until you find where it's shorted.
If all of the readings are 10,000 ohms or higher, that means the wiring is fine, and the problem is a defective MAP sensor.
Did that help explain it okay?
Let me know what your results are.
Take care,
~Chris
Wow. Take a couple of days off from the computer, and I miss out on all the fun.
Don't worry about the other advice in this thread, as it would really be a waste of time. You're correct as far as the two temp sensor codes are concerned, and the test procedure I outlined will find exactly which wire, if any is shorted.
You really should consider moving up to a digital multimeter, but we can work with what you have. Set your meter on the 1000 ohm scale (that's what the 'K' means), and stick one test probe (it doesn't matter which one, but to better explain this, lets say you use the black one) to pin 45 at the connector. Then touch the other test probe (the red one) to pin 26, and read the meter. Then move the red probe from pin 26 to pin 46, and read the meter again. Then move the red probe from pin 46 to pin 40, and read the meter again. Then move the red probe from pin 40 to pin 60, and read the meter one last time. Remember to leave the first probe (the black one) on pin 45 the whole time.
If any reading is less than 10,000 ohms, that means there is a short between that wire and the wire that goes to pin 45 (the blue MAP/BP wire). Check the other side of the connector to see which wire goes to the pin with the short, and trace it backwards, into the engine compartment, until you find where it's shorted.
If all of the readings are 10,000 ohms or higher, that means the wiring is fine, and the problem is a defective MAP sensor.
Did that help explain it okay?
Let me know what your results are.
Take care,
~Chris
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Relaced Map sensor no more code
I replaced the map sensor and spark plugs and a no start. It will run for 10 sec on starting fluid only. Tried both fuel tanks to, both tanks full. I can smell fuel on plugs. I rechecked the codes after installing the new Map and the code 22 ( problem with Map) is gone and the new C. memery codes are 11 11, not 22, 22. I got 21 and 24 in KOEO. I was told those were ok for no run, when it real cols 20 deg. I would think the only thing left is high fuel pressure????? What are the chances both Map and Reg went bad the same time???
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listen it is not normal for you to get ECT and IAT error codes in KOEO, if you want to verify sensor failure than test them with an ohmeter, if you just want to replace them i think there like 10-15$ a sensor....
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It started!!!!!!
THANKS GUYS!!! After engine was hot. I reinstalled old map and it start RIGHT UP. Why did I get the code 22 then??? Should i keep the new Map? It seems that the front intank fuel pump may have a problem sometimes it stutters, and it runs a little loader then the rear one. Ran rear tank for half hour no strutters. I will try codes while its running just to see if anything comes up.
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Code wow!!
Yesterday I only had codes 21 and 24 when no start. I was told thats ok when cold.
Today while running I get koeo codes
31 EVP
1
12 ISC
41 RUNNING Lean
33 EGR
13 ISC
77 GOOSE THROTTLE..... DIDN'T DO
52 tURN WHEEL.... DIDN'T DO
CODES REPEAT 12 TO 52
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ENGINE Hot not running CODES I GOT TODAY
11
11
1
22 Map sensor replaced with new one and cleared code yesterday
51 ECT
87 FUEL PUMP .... i have two fuel tanks
33 EGR
CODES REPEAT 22 TO 33
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Engine misses for a half a sec on low idle about every 3 to 5 minutes while in the driveway. Don't know about on the road yet. WONT STALL IF I GOOSE THROTTLE. DO I NEED TO REMOVE the BATTERY GROUND after installing the new map sensor? Do all these codes make sense sense i didn't get them yesterday??
Today while running I get koeo codes
31 EVP
1
12 ISC
41 RUNNING Lean
33 EGR
13 ISC
77 GOOSE THROTTLE..... DIDN'T DO
52 tURN WHEEL.... DIDN'T DO
CODES REPEAT 12 TO 52
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ENGINE Hot not running CODES I GOT TODAY
11
11
1
22 Map sensor replaced with new one and cleared code yesterday
51 ECT
87 FUEL PUMP .... i have two fuel tanks
33 EGR
CODES REPEAT 22 TO 33
--------------------------------------------------------------
Engine misses for a half a sec on low idle about every 3 to 5 minutes while in the driveway. Don't know about on the road yet. WONT STALL IF I GOOSE THROTTLE. DO I NEED TO REMOVE the BATTERY GROUND after installing the new map sensor? Do all these codes make sense sense i didn't get them yesterday??
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ohms teating
I only have 1000 ohms setting on my meter how would i test for 60,000 ohms on my ect sensor? I cleared the codes and got all 11 on the not running. Should get KOEO (R) codes while running though, it wont restart when hot.
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ECT sensor
On my 1000 ohms setting I got 6 which I think is 60 ohms. Engine was warm, not running. I got 2.5 volts at the plug end ( unpluged and pluged ) between the two wires. With a cold engine I got 60 ohms which is 600 ohms.
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throttle air bypass sensor
I get 10.5 volts unpluged and .8 ohms on the 10 ohms scale. Is the Tab sensor ok? Sounds ok in the Haynes manual. I cleaned the TAB body out with carb cleaner it was dirty. 87 f150 4.9
for trouble code 12 and 13
for trouble code 12 and 13