Finally after 1 year and 2 months, the moment of truth came Saturday afternoon........turned the key and she fired right up!!! No leaks, no codes, good oil pressure, good coolant temp. It felt great, what a relief, until I finished my 25 minute ring seat run at 2000 rpm, when I let off the gas easy to settle into idle, it started surging up and down and then crapped. Ah, bummer!!! It does not want to idle, so I have a suspicion my TPS voltage isn't right at closed throttle (opps, yes that's the only thing I didn't measure before I fire it up). I'm going to put the fuel pressure gage and a vacuum gage on it tonight, and measure and adjust the TPS voltage before I try to get it started again. Other than that, it sounds great, this thing is going to stomp ***!!! As soon as I get it to idle, it is going to the tuning shop in Orlando to dial in on the dyno with wideband, will hopefully have some good news in a week or two.

 

Thats sounds awesome, other than the idling problem. Please keep us informed!!!!!

 

Good to go!

Keep us posted.

 

You might want to check the Mustang sites. A lot of guys that go with aftermarket intakes and certain cam combos have idle problems, and usually drilling a hole in the TB butterfly plate will correct it.

Depending on the combo, the extra pull of trying to fill the cylinders with bigger lift/duration (and in your case more cubes now) will play games with the idle.

 

Cool man, im getting ready to pull my motor and fix her up a little myself. no strokers for me though

 

Mine surges whenever I change or disconnect the battery, or whenever its started with the AC or Defrost on. When the battery is disconnected I think it needs to relearn the idle. When the AC is on I think my voltage regulator goes haywire and give it the right juice at the right time. Just a thought or 2.

 

right on i was thinking you where never going to run that motor. i was hoping that you where going to give it to me to test it out. i guess i will have to build my own.

 

Update:

I had to adjust the idle by opening the throttle plate with the idle adjustment screw. The TPS voltage is set at a perfect .98 volts. The idle air bypass just couldn’t get the job done with the throttle plate fully closed. This thing is pulling 18-19 in of hg at idle, small birds beware.....you will get sucked in the intake!!!! Anyway, I got it settle in at a smooth 1000rpm idle with no load (dummy trans installed). I then installed the new trans and got it filled, idle settled in a nice smooth 850rpm. The test drive indicated an issue though, with the trans in drive, it barely crept forward and accelerating the revs jumped up to almost 3000rpm and then slowly came down as speed increased....AHHH!!! My stall is too high!!! Dammit!!! I told my trans builder I wanted to TOW, not DRAG, so what did he give me??? A street/strip converter with a 2200-2500 stall. With my short duration cam and max torque coming on low around 1800, I need a low stall converter, basically the stock stall, around 1400-1600. Otherwise I will get crap mileage and way too much heat from the loose converter. Good news is he will swap me no charge. Bad news is I HAVE TO TAKE OUT THE DAMN TRANS AGAIN!!! I tell you, it has been one thing after another with this project; I just want my truck back so I can DRIVE IT!! Hopefully this is the last obstacle to over come before I head to the dyno for fine tuning.

 

Wow...my 2200rpm Stall converter feels EXACTLY like the stock one unless I mash the gas from a dead stop then it flashes ~2100-2200 and goes. I got my from Transmission Specialties Somwhere up North. It was round $315 or something like that. It is a Heavy Duty 12" Lock-up Convert with Anti-Balloning whatever, furnace brazed impellers.....all the goodies. I know you want to get your truck back together, but you might want to give these guys a call, I love my converter, only sometimes I wish the stall was 2400 or so, but then sometimes I don't cause 2200 usually overwhelms the tires even at the strip. Just a thought

http://www.transmission-specialties.com/