Body Rot Solutions
Body Rot Solutions
My 95 SC 4x4 is from the salt belt, and has the typical body rot... Just above the running boards and behind the doors on the cab, and above the wheel wells in back. Other than cutting it out, and filling it in with new metal, or replacing the bed / panels, has anyone found fender flares that do the trick for the rear wells? Or are there Stainless Steel panels that one can acquire to cover the areas on the cab (after the rust has been removed)? I ask, because I'm getting quotes from local shops that run in the thousands to do a repair.
If there was an easy way everyone would do it. Fender flares will cover it for a while, but it will eventaully eat out past them. The only way to really fix it is to cut it out and weld in new metal. As many of us with older trucks know- rust sucks and is expensive to fix.
If your lookin for the DIY repair Ill tell ya what to do.
Mind you, this is not the right way nor will it keep the rust from coming back. It might actually make it worse.
get your self a few cans of expand-a-foam, geat stuff. Tape off theback side of the holes if accessible. Squirt the foam in there. Put some tape over the faom once filled. But not too tight. let the foam set up for a few hours before you peel the tape off.
let it dry up real good, for a few days. Grind the foam flush with the metal. Go over it with gorrila hair or something of that sort. Sand that down like normal body filler. Once smooth finish it off with the filler of your choice, sand smooth. Once satifyed with the results prime and prep for paint.
BY NO MEANS IS THIS THE RIGHT WAY TO FIX RUST BUT IT WORKS GREAT IF YOU DONT REALLY CARE.
If you want it done right you have to spend some coin and replace the panels. Patching the panels isnt right either. Most of the time no corrosion protection is applyed behind the repaired area and the rust comes back.
Mind you, this is not the right way nor will it keep the rust from coming back. It might actually make it worse.
get your self a few cans of expand-a-foam, geat stuff. Tape off theback side of the holes if accessible. Squirt the foam in there. Put some tape over the faom once filled. But not too tight. let the foam set up for a few hours before you peel the tape off.
let it dry up real good, for a few days. Grind the foam flush with the metal. Go over it with gorrila hair or something of that sort. Sand that down like normal body filler. Once smooth finish it off with the filler of your choice, sand smooth. Once satifyed with the results prime and prep for paint.
BY NO MEANS IS THIS THE RIGHT WAY TO FIX RUST BUT IT WORKS GREAT IF YOU DONT REALLY CARE.
If you want it done right you have to spend some coin and replace the panels. Patching the panels isnt right either. Most of the time no corrosion protection is applyed behind the repaired area and the rust comes back.
Cut out the damaged metal and then make up the patch panels, weld them or use the weld bond glue that is available now and then put filler over it and make it smooth. Its actually not expensive or difficult to do yourself at all if you use the weld bond kits, they are great for rust work. They will also provide a seal over the edges so the rust returning won't happen as fast. Go in behind the panels and seam seal all those edges then cover it w/ undercoating. That should help you out a lot and it will be a while before it returns. When I was a bodyman thats what I used to do when we had the rare rust patch job. After 2 years the cars are still driving around w/ no rust in those areas. Just make sure you use soem prep sol and clean off all wax/grease/salt from the areas before you repair them.
Or you could find a clean used bed and put that on, but that may actually run you more money.
Or you could find a clean used bed and put that on, but that may actually run you more money.


