engine parts (bearings, rings and stuff)
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Norwalk, CT
Hi
Just a few suggestions FWIW, if you are going to the lenths that your talking about, try looking into a Re-man short block, this way you will have the block already bored and new rings and pistons installed. They also boil the block and install new cam bearings, and freeze out plugs as well.
Should you want to use your own block look into a crankshaft kit, which comes with all of the undersized bearings to match the crank, these kits cost about the same as the individual bearing sets. Regardless, I would still recommend checking the clearance with plastigauge.
Regarding the cam, try to obtain the entire cam kit which would include the matching lifters (Roller hydrolics are nice) valve springs and retainers etc. This way you at least know what you have.
Also don't forget about the oil pump, throw the old Ford pump into the dumpster, and look into a Melling high volume pump and screen.
Just a few suggestions FWIW, if you are going to the lenths that your talking about, try looking into a Re-man short block, this way you will have the block already bored and new rings and pistons installed. They also boil the block and install new cam bearings, and freeze out plugs as well.
Should you want to use your own block look into a crankshaft kit, which comes with all of the undersized bearings to match the crank, these kits cost about the same as the individual bearing sets. Regardless, I would still recommend checking the clearance with plastigauge.
Regarding the cam, try to obtain the entire cam kit which would include the matching lifters (Roller hydrolics are nice) valve springs and retainers etc. This way you at least know what you have.
Also don't forget about the oil pump, throw the old Ford pump into the dumpster, and look into a Melling high volume pump and screen.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: Wilder, ID
I dont like re-man motors, you dont get to chose what you want. if i were to go that far, i would want some forged pistons. since my motor isnt toast, i just want to freshen it up with some performance parts. Ive looked at all of the engine kits out there, and no one has exactly what i want since i want total seal gapless rings and clevite bearings. what are the advantages of a high volume oil pump? ive always thought they are a waste of HP. is it going to extend the life of my motor ten-fold?
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Norwalk, CT
Hi Dave,
Sorry I didn't reply sooner, I tend to be confused with the term to freshen your engine, other than to rebuild the engine that you have now. It sounds to me that you are intending to rebuild the engine if you are intending to go to the lengths that you are planning.
I don't know what your application is, or how you are going to use your truck, and what you basically want out of it, but if your going to bore it to change the pistons, and to cut the crank why not spend a few bucks more and have it balenced as well.
I don't know, exactly what gapless rings are, have have no opinion on them, although Clevite bearings are very good and I have used them on numerous occassions without any problems.
You also indicate that there is a knock in the engine, while you say the engine is not toast, there is a problem.
I will stick to my point about a high volume oil pump, that unless you are planning to race this truck the amount of horsepower lost is minimal, in exchage for at least the peace of mind that your investment in time and money is going to get the proper amountof lubrication and not gall a bearing. Its been well documented here and on other sites the stock Ford oil pump and pick up leave a lot to be desired, and tend to fail more often than not.
To extend the life of your motor ten fold regardless of any modifications is to park the truck in the garage and only drive it 3,000 miles a year
Sorry I didn't reply sooner, I tend to be confused with the term to freshen your engine, other than to rebuild the engine that you have now. It sounds to me that you are intending to rebuild the engine if you are intending to go to the lengths that you are planning.
I don't know what your application is, or how you are going to use your truck, and what you basically want out of it, but if your going to bore it to change the pistons, and to cut the crank why not spend a few bucks more and have it balenced as well.
I don't know, exactly what gapless rings are, have have no opinion on them, although Clevite bearings are very good and I have used them on numerous occassions without any problems.
You also indicate that there is a knock in the engine, while you say the engine is not toast, there is a problem.
I will stick to my point about a high volume oil pump, that unless you are planning to race this truck the amount of horsepower lost is minimal, in exchage for at least the peace of mind that your investment in time and money is going to get the proper amountof lubrication and not gall a bearing. Its been well documented here and on other sites the stock Ford oil pump and pick up leave a lot to be desired, and tend to fail more often than not.
To extend the life of your motor ten fold regardless of any modifications is to park the truck in the garage and only drive it 3,000 miles a year
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: Wilder, ID
I dont think I am going to bore it, but i wont be sure untill i get it apart. It has a knock because my dumb *** ran it out of oil once (still not sure where it went, but i just never checked it) since then ive been keeping a close watch on it and it uses about 1 quart every 3000 miles which i think is normal. I have been waiting for it to blow up any minute, but its been nearly 8000 miles since then and it hasnt changed a bit. I might do a compression test on it again. I did it a while back and had about 135psi across all of the cylinders.
Total seal (maybe others) make gapless rings, basically they put two rings in one groove with the gaps in different spots, supposedly the leakdown can be down to 0% whereas normal rings can only get to 5%, or something like that.
Total seal (maybe others) make gapless rings, basically they put two rings in one groove with the gaps in different spots, supposedly the leakdown can be down to 0% whereas normal rings can only get to 5%, or something like that.
