I finished replacing my oil pan gasket on my '95 300 6 cyl. last night. I did it without raising the engine. Of coarse, to completely remove the oil pan on this truck (4x2) you have to raise the engine, but to only change out the gasket, you can do it just by dropping the oil pan down on the cross member. This allows enough room to pull the old gasket down into the oil pan, then remove it. Then, to put the new one on, just drop it in the pan, and unfold it. It takes a while to finally get it aligned, but it works, and it is much simpler than pulling or raising the engine. With the aid of an air rachet, the job only took two hours from start to finish.

 

Yeah, I got to do that on July 4, 1998, exactly 1 month and 4 days after my warranty expired. What made it a piece of cake in my opinion was the fact that the replacement was a one piece, and it came with those cool alignment pins! Hasn't leaked a drop in 5 years!

Take care,
~Chris

 

Yup I did mine at 85k.....was a lot easier then I thought.

And one lesson learned....drain the oil first!

 

did mine at 265K miles ... but as the 3rd owner, no idea if it happened before. Took me a long time since I had to jack up the engine, disconnect the EGR for more clearance, and jack up the transmission for clearance (and remove the two bottom flywheel cover bolts so the pan would slide out so I could do the pump as well). Found a bad engine mount, so replaced both. Replaced oil pump while in there. I personally found the plastic guides too much trouble to use ... since the bolts are 3/8 - 24 bolts, just took about a dozen 2" long bolts and held stuff in place with them first. Then, replaced "1 by 1" each of them with correct bolts.

 

Perhaps you gentleman could help me then. I have a 94 4.9 I6 and the oil pan gasket is clearly worn and frayed. I'm leaking about 2 quarts a week from the front end of the gasket closer to the engine so I'm not 100% sure the gasket is the source because I've heard these things are difficult to diagnose but I am going to start by swapping the gasket. There is a crossmember under the oil pan and it seems as though it could drop and I could change it out like cowboykent says. The trick is I do not have an air ratchet and I will have to do the work on my back and do everything by hand in this oil soaked underbelly. Is this advised?

 

I have read most of the posts on this and I am still not real clear on how to do this. Does the radiator need to be removed or just drained and the hoses removed? If number one cylinder is at tdc does the transmission need to be disconnected to jack up engine enough to clear?

 

Are you replacing the gasket or the whole oil pan?

 

I am just replacing the pan gasket.

 

Read the first post. You don't have to do anything except drop the pan down onto the crossmember. Why would you mess with the radiator or hoses?

 

on my 89, after I jacked up the engine in front, I found that was not enough room to get the pan OUT, so I loosed the EGR valve so the engine would go higher. The hoses flexed enough so they didn't need to be removed. Also found that I needed to remove the transmission bolts (2) and jack up the transmission. THEN, the pan would come OUT. Since I think that dirt on the gasket would have been bad from a leak perspective, I think taking the pan OUT is the best approach because you can clean everything better (especially if the old gasket had some sort of liquid sealer used previously). For me, even if all I was doing was changing the gasket, I would have wanted the pan OUT so I could get to everything and clean it well. Then, once I followed the instructions with the gasket (no liquid sealer like RTV allowed!) and torqued it correctly (I think it was 18 inch/pounds max, and I did 10 first, then the max of 18 to get a good seat), it worked perfectly with no leaks.

 

I have a 95 F150 2x4 with the 4.9 6 cylinder. I changed the gasket using a new Fel pro gasket. I loosened the erg valve, loosened the fan shroud, removed the engine mount nuts and jacket the engine from the front of the oil pan. I inserted the two 1" blocks between the engine and mounts. Pan would not come out because the back of the pan would not drop enough to clear transmission. I tried to jack it up higher (by the harmonic ballencer) and put some shims in. Still no go. So I cleaned the surfaces with contact cleaner the best I could and installed the gasket locaters that come with the Fel Pro.
Installed torqed down and tested. No Leaks.

 

Blindle ... what you experienced is exactly what I experienced. But I was determined because I wanted to change the pump, so I also removed the transmission mount bolts, jacked up the transmission, then removed the two bolts at the bottom of the flywheel cover plate and it came out. I'm glad I got it out because it gave me the opportunity to grind off the rust, and coat the exterior with a rust preventative.