How hard are the fuel injectors on the 5.0L to replace?
I know that the top intake has to come off.

'95 F150 Ext-cab 5.0L AT

 

They are pretty simple once the upper intake is off. You have to disconnect the fuel lines with a special tool, unbolt the fuel rails, disconnect the wiring harness and everything should basically lift off. Pull the fuel injectors off and make sure that the little rubber o-rings are not inside still. If they are you can use a small screw driver to get them out. Grab the new injectors and put some vaseline on the o-rings top and bottom so they pop in better, pop them all in and put back together. Once everything is hooked up, cycle the key on and off a couple of times to rebuild the fuel line pressure and you can check you leaks at this time as well. If everything looks okay, start her up.

Not sure if you have them already but Summit Racing has a completed set (8) for around $210. Summit Racing

And a company in California by the name of FiveoMotorsport has them for a shade under $200 for a set of 8. 50 Motorsports

And JMC found this link and forwarded to me. So I will keep it going, a really nice link when you are looking to do something like this. Manual Look-Up

Hope this helps.

Have Fun & Keep on Truckin'
Dean

 

I replaced them today, took about 2 hours.

But I still have the same problem

After the battery is unhooked, it will run fine, till it "learns" again.

Then it have a bad idle, running down the road its fine.

 

Check Idle Air Sensor, Throttle position sensor, clean throttle body and MAF. Probably do the cleaning first and then see if it still happens, then check on the two other sensors. Let us know.

Have Fun & Keep on Truckin'
Dean

 

TPS replaced, MAF replaced,

 

Does the truck have EGR? if so i would check the egr valve. Is the check engine light on??

-Jon

 

The Idle Air Sensor read 9.6, its ok if its 7-13.

This is what I have tryed
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=114038
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=112523

I will try the TB cleaner this week sometime.

I also plugged the vac line to the EGR and it didn't change it.

 

Okay, those threads had hit and miss info, and were dated. Take a minute and tell me what's been replaced, and what the symptoms are.

You don't get any codes at all, or just passing codes? Have you done both KOEO and KOER?

You said at one point that pulling two plug wires made no difference, is that still true, or does it make a noticable difference when you pull each wire now?

Have you replaced the ECT sensor?

Post as much info as you can, and try and answer these questions, and we'll get you fixed up. I haven't been beaten yet.

You can email me if you'd rather...

pkrwuds@pacbell.net

Take care,
~Chris

 

Very bad idle, will die at times, in gear and in park. I can unhook the battery, and it will run fine for a few miles. Driving is fine.



I have replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, O2, MAF, injectors, TPS,

NO codes at all, I did both test with the scaner. The only time the light came on is when I unpluged the MAF.

I think its down to one wire being pulled and not changing.

What is the ECT sensor?

 

ECT = Engine Coolant Temp. sensor.

but nevermind that, if you're getting no codes at all, the ECM is bad. Or you're doing it wrong. It will always generate at least a passing code.

 

I don't recall if I got a pass, fail code when I read them. But the check light never has came on to tell me what is wrong.

I do know that I replaced the O2 because it read NO volts on the tester, and I think even after the new one it still read NO volts.

I will get the tester this week and run it again to see if I get a pass code.

 

Okay, two very important things you need to know;

first, it doesn't matter if you see a MIL (check engine lamp) or not. Ithe ECM doesn't always flash it when it detects a problem.

second, don't worry about trying to read the sensor voltage, you're jumping way too far ahead, and your results are meaningless.

You MUST first perform a KOEO self test, and write down any codes. You then must fix those problems, and run a KOEO self test again. Keep doing this until you get a code 11. Then, and only then, run the KOER self test, and check for codes.

If, for example, the ECT sensor is bad, the system will never go into closed loop, and the O2 sensors won't be used, so reading their voltage is meaningless without first knowing for sure that it passed both KOEO and KOER self tests.

Post your results

Take care,
~Chris

 

I ran both the KOEO and KOER test, both fast and slow. All 4 gave the same code "111". They test fine.

Did the live test and the O2 showed no volts in open and closed.

I have not put it on the lift to check the wires, will do that soon.

 

If the O2's weren't working, it would trip a code. The ECM must be bad.

 

Is there some test that will show its bad, before I spent 150-200 for a new one?